SR ECU/Engine management
and a rev speed meter for full bling! 
no jwt ecu is the same really. well some are for same setups but therye built for you.
what you do when u get a jwt ecu is you tell them what u have. most guys running upgraded turboes usually have upgraded injectors, a bigger AFM/MAF, and an afc. you tell them u have this, and they program it for you. i u dont have the afc, they program it for without it, but i would also recommend using it for fine tuning purposes.
fyi, they have ka24de n/a obd1 ecu's that will work with 96 up cars, u just get to rip out all your stupid obd2 crap and if u take out the charcoal canister and egr and 2nd-ary pcv equipment, its almost 40 lbs in hoses, lines, and boxes!!! :o
and there is a ka24de jwt ecu for turbo applications which i plan on using along with a z32 MAFs, s-afc, and 550 (or possibly 720s later on) injectors. other than the wait to send the core out and get the tuned one back (downtime), they work great.

no jwt ecu is the same really. well some are for same setups but therye built for you.
what you do when u get a jwt ecu is you tell them what u have. most guys running upgraded turboes usually have upgraded injectors, a bigger AFM/MAF, and an afc. you tell them u have this, and they program it for you. i u dont have the afc, they program it for without it, but i would also recommend using it for fine tuning purposes.
fyi, they have ka24de n/a obd1 ecu's that will work with 96 up cars, u just get to rip out all your stupid obd2 crap and if u take out the charcoal canister and egr and 2nd-ary pcv equipment, its almost 40 lbs in hoses, lines, and boxes!!! :o
and there is a ka24de jwt ecu for turbo applications which i plan on using along with a z32 MAFs, s-afc, and 550 (or possibly 720s later on) injectors. other than the wait to send the core out and get the tuned one back (downtime), they work great.
who the hell deleted my sds post
for the record
you waste all that time and money and you still wont be able to adjust and tweak the timing the way SDS will/
then again if you dont like making power, thats your problem.
for the record
you waste all that time and money and you still wont be able to adjust and tweak the timing the way SDS will/
then again if you dont like making power, thats your problem.
__________________
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
I Seem to make plenty of power with the Stock ECU and S-AFC combo. Plus i am working on a new speed cut remover that you can make @ radio shack!!
Your choice... Wait time on JWT is like 5 weeks. Unless you have $$ for a core charge you will be out an ECU for that long.
For all out tuning and plug & play compatability. there is Apex'i Power FC ($1250) full adjustment of all parameters plugs in and uses ALL factory wiring. Only downfall is that it is still mass-air not speed-density.
Scott
Your choice... Wait time on JWT is like 5 weeks. Unless you have $$ for a core charge you will be out an ECU for that long.
For all out tuning and plug & play compatability. there is Apex'i Power FC ($1250) full adjustment of all parameters plugs in and uses ALL factory wiring. Only downfall is that it is still mass-air not speed-density.
Scott
Guest
Posts: n/a
Here is my $0.02 on this. The most effective (and safest) way to manage fuel on any Nissan is to run a JWT ECU. If you want the ability to fine tune air/fuel ratios on your own, then also get the S-AFC. JWT tends to tune their turbo ECUs a little rich in order to prevent major catastrophes caused by overzealous boost junkies 
With the S-AFC, you cannot alter or tweak ignition timing. However, there should be no need for this with the JWT ECU. The only timing mod you will need to make for more power under boost will be to run race gas and advance the timing to 20+ degrees BTDC.
If you plan on making serious power (like over 350 whp), I recommend the MSD 50 lb/hr injectors, 4 bar fuel pressure, and a Cobra or Z32 MAF. Of course, you can run drop-in Japanese side feed injectors with the 4 bar program, as long as you send an injector along with your ECU to JWT to have it flow tested. From that flow test, they can calibrate the injector pulse width needed to make the car run correctly.
If you want to keep the stock rail, get Apexi, Blitz, Tomei, etc....side feeds and the Nismo adjutable fuel pressure regulator, which bolts onto the OEM rail perfectly.
Lastly, I recommend staying with a MAF based engine management system. MAP based systems cannot compensate for sudden changes in engine volumetric efficiency, whereas a MAF can. This is why, on an RX-7, if you add a high flow exhaust, intake, downpipe, etc....you run the chance if running lean and detonating. The engine is now breathing in more air (at the same wastegate boost level) and the MAP sensor doesn't know it. The MAP sensor can only sense the pressure in the system, not the actual "amount" or mass of the air entering the engine.
The MAF can read the exact amount of air entering the engine and thereby relay this info the ECU, which will in turn keep the injectors open longer, supplying more fuel. If you get a large MAF, it will not be a restriction at all.
If you have unlimited free dyno access or deep pockets, stick with a MAF.
One more thing, I can get JWT ECUs faster than if you sent it in yourself. I am a JWT dealer and they are able to get my ECUs done a lot faster than if I were not a dealer.
I hope this info helps.
Later,

With the S-AFC, you cannot alter or tweak ignition timing. However, there should be no need for this with the JWT ECU. The only timing mod you will need to make for more power under boost will be to run race gas and advance the timing to 20+ degrees BTDC.
If you plan on making serious power (like over 350 whp), I recommend the MSD 50 lb/hr injectors, 4 bar fuel pressure, and a Cobra or Z32 MAF. Of course, you can run drop-in Japanese side feed injectors with the 4 bar program, as long as you send an injector along with your ECU to JWT to have it flow tested. From that flow test, they can calibrate the injector pulse width needed to make the car run correctly.
If you want to keep the stock rail, get Apexi, Blitz, Tomei, etc....side feeds and the Nismo adjutable fuel pressure regulator, which bolts onto the OEM rail perfectly.
Lastly, I recommend staying with a MAF based engine management system. MAP based systems cannot compensate for sudden changes in engine volumetric efficiency, whereas a MAF can. This is why, on an RX-7, if you add a high flow exhaust, intake, downpipe, etc....you run the chance if running lean and detonating. The engine is now breathing in more air (at the same wastegate boost level) and the MAP sensor doesn't know it. The MAP sensor can only sense the pressure in the system, not the actual "amount" or mass of the air entering the engine.
The MAF can read the exact amount of air entering the engine and thereby relay this info the ECU, which will in turn keep the injectors open longer, supplying more fuel. If you get a large MAF, it will not be a restriction at all.
If you have unlimited free dyno access or deep pockets, stick with a MAF.
One more thing, I can get JWT ECUs faster than if you sent it in yourself. I am a JWT dealer and they are able to get my ECUs done a lot faster than if I were not a dealer.
I hope this info helps.
Later,
Guest
Posts: n/a
If you have a large enough MAF (like a Z32 or Cobra), there will not be a need to eliminate it in favor of a MAP sensor. On an SR20, you can make well over 500+ hp with a MAF. I do not know the hp limit of the Z32 MAF in terms of flow, but it is probably higher than what most people will make.
haltech, haltech, haltech... lol
Seriously if you want big numbers later on, (450-650rwhp) just bite the bullet and get the Stand alone. $300 for the$AFC, $550 JWT, more money for the high imp. side feeds (sometimes up to 2x more money).
When you can spend 1000 for a haltech or SDS, and get low impedence inj ($65 a pop for 72lb) and a 100 dollar rail. All for teh same price and limitless adjustability. Sorry to invade the Nissan Forum, but its all relative.
Hope this helps...
BTW, I would have never made the power I did on my motor without a stand alone...
Seriously if you want big numbers later on, (450-650rwhp) just bite the bullet and get the Stand alone. $300 for the$AFC, $550 JWT, more money for the high imp. side feeds (sometimes up to 2x more money).
When you can spend 1000 for a haltech or SDS, and get low impedence inj ($65 a pop for 72lb) and a 100 dollar rail. All for teh same price and limitless adjustability. Sorry to invade the Nissan Forum, but its all relative.
Hope this helps...
BTW, I would have never made the power I did on my motor without a stand alone...
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Just a photographer with a bunch of NIKON glass.
My Twitter: http://twitter.com/powersimagery
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My Job: Vegas Magazine | Retna LTD | Tao/Lavo/Marquee Las Vegas
Just a photographer with a bunch of NIKON glass.
My Twitter: http://twitter.com/powersimagery
My Blog: http://powersimagery.com/blog
My Website: www.powersimagery.com
My Job: Vegas Magazine | Retna LTD | Tao/Lavo/Marquee Las Vegas


