Year: 1990
Make: Nissan
Model: 240 SX
Miles: 160k+
How long have you owned the car: 3 months
How do you generally drive your car (IE, beat on it daily like a disobedient 18th century slave, or commute in heavy traffic etc): havne't driven it yet
Was it running and driving when you bought it: ran like shit, driving? no
What maintenance have you done to the car since you bought it: spark plugs, cap & rotor, battery
What modifications have been done to the car since you bought it: none
How long did it run and drive before the problem began: dunno, sat for 3 yrs
What was the first symptom you noticed: idled very rough, motor shook heavily
What symptoms came next: would not start
Does it start at all: no
How long did it take from the first symptom to it not starting: just bought it
What troubleshooting has been done to try and diagnose the problem: while wiggling the #1 and #4 injectors, that car started to die, #2 and #3 did nothing
What parts have been replaced to try and fix the problem: stated above
Has there been any change as the parts were replaced: no
Why were those particular parts replaced: plugs were fouled, rotor was very worn, the metal contacts inside the cap were falling apart
What parts were replaced with used parts, and how do you know they were good parts: all new parts
Do you have the ability and resources to do the work if the problem is diagnosed: yes
Are you looking to "hire" someone to come fix your car for you: if you wanna drive up to Panama City, rofl
What are you offering: positive feedback
Where are you and/or the car located: Panama City, Florida
Any additional notes you would like to add: new to Nissans, bet I got myself into a huge mess, originally bought the car to fix up really quickly, and sell for a profit...have spent less than $150 on it so far, trying to stay under $300

laugh if you want, but Im totally serious, Im not sure what is wrong, I think the injectors are bad, they are original oem. Fuel comes out from the filter when I turn the key, I know I am getting good spark. Not sure whats next. Timing has never been messed with. SOmeone told me that 240's jump timing alot, how do I know if it is in time? Thanks for any help tips or advice.

 

can't believe someone else used my little form thing... kinda makes me happy

anywho

check the resistance on the injectors, I think it is "supposed" to be like 11. something, but you typically won't have any problems as long as it is under 15. the other way to test it is to pull the fuel rail off, lay the rail on some cardboard and have someone turn the key and see if each injector sprays fuel.

If it is timing, then you'll get pops and/or backfires through the intake - if the dizzy is off a tooth or more.
if somehow the timing chain jumped a tooth, then you have all kinds of problems and just need to swap in a new engine and call it a day.

check the basics
compression - should be 180 give or take 5 all the way across, however, the engine will still start if the compression is low as long as it is pretty much the same on all 4, won't be a healthy engine, but it will still start.
spark - make sure you are actually getting spark
fuel - verify the injectors are actually spraying gas
air
timing. - this should help Distributor Timing

 

^ thanks alot, repped!!!!

Ive got a ohmeter but am unsure of how to use it well see how testing the injectors goes,
timing is dead on, and I am getting spark from the coil, so I am sure there isnt a problem with the ignition. I will have to get a compression testor to make sure thats working.

As far as the fuel is concerned, how do I get all the old bad gas out of the tank aside from setting a bucket underneath the filter and turning the key unil it runs dry?

ALso, should I add an octane booster? If yes, what brand is best. Also, should I use 93 octane in it for the time being until its running properly?

 

bad gas, drain the tank off all gas, fill up with some new gas, old gas makes your whip run like shit

 

one probe goes on one prong, the other probe goes on the other. set the meter to resistance and see what the meter says. not too difficult.

i know you say timing is dead on, but how do you know? You get your timing gun out to check it?
Spark from the coil doesn't mean there is spark at the spark plug. you ought to pull each one out and verify that it actually sparks. don't hold the plug with your hand, unless of course you want to know what it feels like. I recommend everyone try it at least once.. lol
Knowing that you have compression will rule out a lot. I doubt that is the problem, but it is better to know for sure then to make an assumption.
getting the old gas out. syphon it out. pull the tank and pour it out. or let the pump, pump it all out. I wouldn't recommend using the pump. while it wouldn't really hurt anything, you don't want to pump all of that gunk through the fuel pump and lines. I'd pull the tank, pour it out, then use a rag and wipe out the tank the best you can. If it is really rusty and gunky, then you might just want to get a new tank. You would also want to get a new pump too since the old would is either dead, or dying.
Stay away from octane boosters. Read up on them. You'll find that most don't do crap. and the few that do, like the black bottle one NOS makes, have risks that you want to understand before going down that road.
93 octane might make it a bit easier to get things like timing set and all of that so you don't have to worry about detonation or anything like that. I personally run premium but I have my timing a bit more advanced.

post up any progress.. hopefully you get it figured out pretty soon

 

OK here are the results.

I have not checked compression, but I got it started and running. I got as much of the old gas out as I could, and added 8 gallons of fresh 87 to it, used some starter fluid and it fired right up.

It runs pretty rough, but I think I know what the problem may be. When I pull off plug wires #3 and #4 there is no change in the way it runs, but when I pull #2 or #1, it shuts off, I am assuming that means the injectors on #3 and #4 are bad. When I shake injectors #1 and #2 it starts to stutter and die.

The radiator is bad, and is blowing steam out of the front.

Does anyone have injectors and a radiator? I need these asap, I am willing to pay for shipping to Panama City.

 

blowing steam doesn't necessarily mean the radiator is bad. all that means is the engine is overheating. It could be a bad water pump. Low on coolant. Air pockets vapor locking the coolant flow. a bad thermostat. a blown head gasket will do that too.

as for your injectors, it could be the injectors are bad, but it could also be spark. All pulling the plug off tells you is that, that cylinder is the one not firing. You should pull your full rail off and spray the injectors on a piece of card board or something by turning the engine over. They should all spray pretty much the same. If #3 and/or #4 isn't spraying or not spraying enough, then you know that injector is bad. If all of them do spray, then you know it is spark related and not the injectors. Start with the spark plugs, then wires, then cap and rotor, then a different (known to be good) coil, then a different (known to be good) distributor. One at a time til the problem is fixed.