Gumbrick

Headstuds were always a primary concern to me when it came to my build. Well, I was always skeptical on the ARPs, their undercut versions, and even their 1.8T version headstud without the undercut. Sure, some people, I bet most have had good results with them but I have also seen/heard some very disappointing results to say the least. I always wondered why APR didn’t offer a longer stud for the SR?


The only alternative at the time was going 1/2in with Maz, or biting the bullet with the $400 grex studs… Since then I’m very elated to discover that Mazworx has made a headstud that is not only affordable but is longer for more thread engagement, incorporated bullet ends and has a higher load clamping force…

By comparing studs on their site, you can see that the Regular ARP shank is obviously shorter and undercut and Maz’ SR shank is longer and straight…
Anyone have any insight about them? I would like to hear what you have to say…
Thanks

Epstein

It looks to me like they incorporated the best design features of the Grex studs, and can sell them for 1/2 the price. ARP can make good parts, they just always paid lip service to this application for some reason. I've seen their recent narrow shank, standard material ones stretch on more than one occasion (on the internet). I've also heard numerous reports of stripping the block with their old thick shank, not-enough-thread ones. These Mazworx spec'd ARP2000 ones should be sweet without having to tap your block.

I noticed that Mazworx also has a corrected set of Main studs for RWD apps. The original ones hit the upper oil pan and either had to be grinded or the pan welded. Good job on that Mazworx!

Gumbrick

Yeah I'm definitely going with these studs on my build. just like you said, Does anyone have a set, or used them? What are the torque procedures? I'm assuming a bit more or the same as ARP?

I'm sure these will be the studs of choice for anyone wanting to make some decent power without 1/2in machine work..

SpermySi-T

Our head studs are 45/65/85ft lbs.

drifthappy

Iv had arp studs for awhile now and they are fine no probs. I would recommend greddy studs they are sweet just alot of $$$. One main thing with the sr's are the threads in the block to not bottom out the stop early so tapping would be awesome. I have seen the mazworx studs and they look alot bigger then the arp's. Im sure mazworx also uses them in the s15 so theres proof they can handle alot of power.

Geno750

Yea I was a bit miffed to see that as well. I got lucky and got my order for the GREX studs in early and "only" paid $257 for them. I also had to grind the shit out of my upper oil pan for the main studs like Epstein said. Sucks that now that my motor is done and installed Mazworx releases their head/main stud kits.

Epstein

Is that with or without moly lube? Or 10W30 or dry?

It's kinda hard to follow what drifthappy is saying, but these new Mazworx/ARPs do bottom out in the block. I'm pretty sure the S15 uses the 1/2" ARP package.

Speaking of the S15, when is it going out again? Maybe NSCRA in October?

SpermySi-T

Installing the studs into the block dry. We recommend just to put lube on fine threads on the stud and bottom side of nuts.

The S15 uses our 1/2" of course.

We will be at NSCRA in Oct, but may show up for the end of the month JDM up's event for some testing on some new stuff. Hoping for 6's

Epstein

Good stuff!

I've always followed the car's progress, saw it in person when it was still unibody and a pile of tube, watched live updates of US vs PR and other crazyness. I want to come out and see it in person for sure!

Gumbrick

Maz,

Dry... I'm curious, why wouldn't you want to use moly or oil on the install? So you keep the stud (where it threads in the block) dry, and you lube the fine threads, (head portion of the stud) with oil or moly? And dab the underside of the nuts prior to install?

Do you infact have any moly lube install procedures or is the dry method prefered with these studs?

How are these new studs holding up in your customer cars?