Wow, that looks like some backyard mechanics shit to me. I would have had a block guard CNC machined and drilled or have cemented the block. Those welds look like someone got a little happy with the heat and didint back off after welding a small section. When you weld something like that (Not that you EVER should) you weld in very small increments and low heat as to not warp/damage anything. I seriously recommend getting another block. And as far as EL, well....ya.

 

i would definitely get a GOOD deck plate and make sure those cylinders are true after all that work.

S&R is good peoples, but i dunno about this. deck plates and sleeves work because they allow coolant to pass through. unless this engine is going to run on methanol and have NO cooling system at all, this may or may not be a great idea. good luck with it though. i can see it handling good power, but i question the longevity of it.

 

+10000000002563851

block guards are a waste of money. it has been proven in the honda world that only sleeves will strengthen the block. anyone want to start with bets of how long it runs for?

 

shoulda went with sleeving the block..that work looks pretty bo bo

 

Sleeving the block would've been a better idea, considering it strengthens the entire cyl wall. This is only strengthing the top 1/2 of the cyl and not doing much for anything down low. I forsee a rod through lower wall of the cyl in your future...

 

hope they will stand behind their work if ne thing bad happens, not trying to sound like a dick but damm i would of just sleeved it

 

^If they are willing to build another motor when this one cracks a sleeve/sleeves and your ok with being a guinea pig, then go for it. If not, I'd get another block sleeved and forget about this. Also, in EVERY ENGINE, the coolant around the sleeves usually flows into the head, then from the head, back into the radiator, and then back into the block. Thus flowing from the engine to the radiator and so forth. If you block off the coolant passages to the head, you'll have no flow and the engine will only be good for the track because it will only stay cool for 15-20mins before it reaches 210+ degrees. I'm not trying to be a dick, I just don't want to see someone lose money on a iffy modification.

 

Here some pics of the block shaved and some holes being drilled for the coolant passage.
Tommorrow we should have the deck polished.

 

Obviously you didnt catch on to the part where it is going to basically be like this
It wasnt dont yet nor was the headgasket laid to mark flow of coolant. ALL passages that move through the gasket are going to be open.

 

Hope everything works out.

If I decide to mod my Z (instead of getting a GT500 or new camaro) I would rather go with Darton Modular Integrated Deck Sleeve - InjectedPerformance.com if I was going to go the big HP route.