I don't doubt the quality of the work, I just doubt this upgrade path.

So resealing, recharging, and rearranging the shim stack I get. That's not rocket science. How the hell are you converting the old-ass coilovers to single/double adjustable? Especially on a budget. Koni wants a small fortune to convert internally adjustable dampers to external adjust, and even more to convert to double adjust.

 

just for the record, if i ever ned to rebuild my jic's, ill just order new dampers from jic, and still wouldnt go this route.

but, hey, whatever you guys want to do !

 

^ JIC doesn't service these anymore and will only give you a small credit toward the purchase of a new set. Already went that route a long time ago....

 

just saying for myself.
i also wouldnt buy old as fuck nonserviceable stuff either.

granted youre kinda stuck, but im sure theres other options out there.

 

For most apps, I agree with you whole heartedly, but for mine, the cheapest coils I could find were 1100 bucks+ shipping from Japan. besides i got these for a STEAL.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing out how Burgy240 likes his new fronts, $600 for a kit to be rebuilt, (Rebuild is $150+ parts) In burgy's case he DID get Koni with near race valving... keep in mind valving that is rock hard on a 1800lb car is much less agressive on a 4000lb Q45

I did not see that Huge shipping charge.. WOW no wonder they did not sell.

I'll be honest with you, the old "Koni yellows and sleeves" may have worked 20 years ago when that was all that was availble. but "off the shelf" koni sports are designed as sport upgrades for stock or +25% "lowering springs" but when you are increasing the spring rate 200% or 300% over stock The MINIMUM I reccomend is pretty agressive percived comfort is as much a function of bump damping as spring rates. if you keep the bump somewhat soft and control the heavy springs with considerable rebound damping you can actually get a decent ride with pretty heavy springs.

you have to remember a Koni sport, might have rebound damping of 150 lbs (@13"/sec) at it's low setting and 400 at it's high setting... so do the math if your running 7kg springs 392 lbs/in.. and you compress them 3" in a fraction of a second, that spring is going to be pushing back against that damper with 1176 lbs, and that's over and above the weight of the car. (another 1000lbs) if your turning into a corner that spring might become unloaded and now you have 2176lbs and only the 176lbs or best case 400lbs to slow it down, you can imagine that the shock will extend with quite a bit of force. if you have heavy wheels and tires this function is amplified by the mass of that assembly.

<EDIT> on second thought I'm not sharing my Valving codes, but needless to say I've been down that road before... and if your going for comfort over out and out performance, I tend to lean toward low pressure twin tube design.. High pressure monotubes while a better design in a bunch of ways, do have a tendency to take a lot of force to "crack" them which can cause a very unpleasant feeling over train tracks or potholes.. (Quick short bumps)

Koni Now has their FSD series (Frequency selective damping) which are supposed to be better for comfort, but I don't trust any part that does not supply the engineering data. the sports can be rebuilt/revalved but for a few bucks more you can build dampers that are valved correct from the start...