seam welding the chassis
this may sound like a dummbie question but all the searching ive done online has not directly stated if you can weld on to the chassis without having to remove the engine and electrical equipment. I plan on using a TIG welder and know their will me a current running through the car but i dont know if it will still leave the car undamaged.
simply put do i have to take out the engine to just weld my car up tight?
thanks for any help.
simply put do i have to take out the engine to just weld my car up tight?
thanks for any help.
Just need to disconnect the battery ground.
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R.I.P. Tim 
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
full on track cars can take a lot more liberties with shit than a street car. bell bottom kits and crazy wheel fitment look cool sliding on a track, but when i want to drive to taco bus, im going to ruin all of that shit. so it just doesnt work for me. function over fashion.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
also, im about to blow my moderator status by deleteing all of davids posts
SR, RB, and LS1 into S13/14 harnesses converted.
SR 13/13- $120, 13/14 or 14/13 $180
RB $200
LS1 $250
Unless you plan to weld ALL the seams on your chassis your not going to see any signifigant diffrences, and im assuming your not if you dont want to take out the engine/electrical. And FYI when your welding on a car ESP. with a MIG it's suggested you remove the gas tank.
And I dont reccomend this type of weld if your doing somthing like this. People call this a stitch weld but it's not it's tack/spot welding.

However THIS is a stitch weld, a complete weld unlike welds spaced 2'' apart...

Ever look at the stock welds that hold on the metal? There spot welds spaced apart. What diffrence is Pic 1 going to make
, not much. So i reccomend stitch welding the seams, even if all your doing are the ones in the engine bay or the strut towers, you will feel a diffrence more then spot welding. Also hope this isint your daily cause get ready for some diffrent sounds and shakes in your car
And I dont reccomend this type of weld if your doing somthing like this. People call this a stitch weld but it's not it's tack/spot welding.

However THIS is a stitch weld, a complete weld unlike welds spaced 2'' apart...

Ever look at the stock welds that hold on the metal? There spot welds spaced apart. What diffrence is Pic 1 going to make
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Last edited by B18C5-EG; Jun 5, 2008 at 06:46 PM.
norachel, TIG has one main advantage over MIG which is control. Wiki the difference between the two.
For this application, yeah "stitch" welding is ideal because it's sheet metal. You just want to "float" the fillers on top and into the work piece, and not penetrate completely through the metal.
Over working or welding the metal will warp the material.
Many kinds of cars and trucks stitch weld, not a 240 thing at all.
For this application, yeah "stitch" welding is ideal because it's sheet metal. You just want to "float" the fillers on top and into the work piece, and not penetrate completely through the metal.
Over working or welding the metal will warp the material.
Many kinds of cars and trucks stitch weld, not a 240 thing at all.
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Last edited by ImportLuv; Jun 5, 2008 at 07:17 PM.
norachel, TIG has one main advantage over MIG which is control. Wiki the difference between the two.
For this application, yeah "stitch" welding is ideal because it's sheet metal. You just want to "float" the fillers on top and into the work piece, and not penetrate completely through the metal.
Over working or welding the metal will warp the material.
Many kinds of cars and trucks stitch weld, not a 240 thing at all.
For this application, yeah "stitch" welding is ideal because it's sheet metal. You just want to "float" the fillers on top and into the work piece, and not penetrate completely through the metal.
Over working or welding the metal will warp the material.
Many kinds of cars and trucks stitch weld, not a 240 thing at all.
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