this may be a noob question but..
i have megan coils and i want 3 degrees of camber up front.
on the top of the camber plate there are 4 alen key screws and they tighten up against the red camber plate. there are dashes on this and i was curious if each dash means one degree and if so do you put the screw thats closer to the block on the degree you want or the other screw. its hard to explain without a close up pic i tried if you guys need one tell me.
on the top of the camber plate there are 4 alen key screws and they tighten up against the red camber plate. there are dashes on this and i was curious if each dash means one degree and if so do you put the screw thats closer to the block on the degree you want or the other screw. its hard to explain without a close up pic i tried if you guys need one tell me.
its not really a degree mark, its more just to see if youre suspension is even.
so, to a degree it kinda is, but theres still too much variance in spindles, what garbage bolts people use, 4/5 lug, chassis code for it to be a definite degree.
so, to a degree it kinda is, but theres still too much variance in spindles, what garbage bolts people use, 4/5 lug, chassis code for it to be a definite degree.
well, if you set it evenly, theyll be even on each side. providing that the rest of the suspension is even.
on my car, i set camber with the struts first, made sure that both sides matched, then set camber on the plates.
on my car, i set camber with the struts first, made sure that both sides matched, then set camber on the plates.
yeah thats what i did. i just wanted a bit more camber up front cuz it was rubbing a fender and i read somewhere on zilvia i think that if you set the camber 3 degrees up front and one in the back you'll have the best grip possable. it was on a autocross related thread so i thought i'd try it. i set the fronts even and the top of the tire in a bit more i think thats positive camber im not sure. but it helped alot i seriously can take cornres like im on rails now. be4 i'd get a bit of front end push
you realize your going to be doing a lot of tire rotations......
my tires had negative camber (not because i wanted them to)
but they will wear a hell of a lot quicker on the inside edge...
at least they did to me... but GL just a heads up
my tires had negative camber (not because i wanted them to)
but they will wear a hell of a lot quicker on the inside edge...
at least they did to me... but GL just a heads up
A little bit of Toe in(front only) also helps grip for auto-x, but only a tiny bit, too much toe on/out kills tires faster than anything.
If I remember correctly I have -2.5 camber all around with .5 toe in (front) and 0 toe rear. Caster is a bit off in the front due to my stock TC bushings needing to be replaced.
coil-overs/good tires help alot with reducing understeer, But after awhile you will begin to notice small improvements can be made.
If I remember correctly I have -2.5 camber all around with .5 toe in (front) and 0 toe rear. Caster is a bit off in the front due to my stock TC bushings needing to be replaced.
coil-overs/good tires help alot with reducing understeer, But after awhile you will begin to notice small improvements can be made.
i didnt camber the hell out of them i only did alil bit and im not gonna toe it cuz of the tire wear issue. i do a mix of aggressive driving so im not gonna go all the way auto cross or drift or drag. i just want a mix that i can also daily drive.
my old car had 4degrees front, over 15k on really stretched tires, hardly could tell.
i have mine set at 2.5 front, 2 rear, slight toe in front, slight toe out rear.
i like how it handles fine, but i also work where i can change it anytime if i want.




