does anyone have any pictures of how they ran there oil lines from there turbo and such?

im trying to find a good spot for my oil return bung that comes out of the oil pan so im trying to see where people welded theres.

also, i would like some pics of how they ran there oil lines and where too if that would be ok.

also, im going to be buying some oil lines from rj's performance in sarasota and was wondering how long everyones lines were. im going to be running a bottom mount so if that helps. and also what size bung i should use and how big of lines i should use.

ive looked on ka-t.org and cant find it at all. if you could give me more info, i would greatly appreciate it and i wiill rep all willing to help. thank you

 

go on jgstools.com. buy theyre kit for 100 bones. end of story.

if you insist on getting lines from that other place, give them a call, im sure they would be happy to answer all of your questions.

their kit has a Tee that comes off of the oil pressure sending unit. ill see if i can dig up a pic of where i put my oil drain bung in at

 

any help would be awesome man. im just curious on the oil line sizing. rjs performance has every fitting and line you could think of thats why i was going to just go to them.

 

call them in the morning.

iirc the inlet side is -4 AN and drain is -10 or -14 AN

there are a lot more pieces than you know for pieceing together this oil line kit though. i would suggest buying the whole set together. its not that much

 

thanks man. i was thinking about just doing that, and i was going to buy a bung from rjs but i didnt know what size to get. i mainly wanted to see where everyone ran there oil lines to get an idea of how to install them.

 

thats definitely the way to go. by the time you piece everything together, you end up spending close to that much anyway...

I'll have to see if I can find some pics for ya...

 

that would be great rachel. im in the process of getting things done. cause my friend is moving at the end of may and i promised it would be boosted before then.

does anyone else know if the sr aftermarket downpipe will work for a KA?

 

yes it will.

 

the dp works if you have a kit that works with it or fab an elbow piece from turbo to dp. or if bottom mount it works fine.

if you use -4an, you might end up needing to use a restrictor, especially if you are using a ball bearing turbo. journal bearing turboes usually use .065" restrictors, and ball bearing turboes use somewhere around .035". Those can be had from jgstools.com or atpturbo or your local oil supply line shop. i prefer to run -3an in my car, it negates the need for the restrictor, and if you've ever dealt with oil lines, you'll know that the less connections and pieces, the better.

the jgs tools kit is nice because it includes a stainless steel oil tee for the mount by the filter. DO NOT USE BRASS. brass works, but it will fail. i have had 2 fail on me before, a normal one and a "high end" brass one. they do not take the vibrations too well, and i have experimented with different mountings for the line to keep vibrations down and it still did it. i also avoid trying to tee too much off one outlet. if you have an oil pressure gauge aftermarket, you dont need to reconnect the stock oil sensor, it's just a dummy light...and now you can monitor the actual oil pressure values on the aftermarket gauge.

when doing the return, if you DO NOT HAVE AN A/C COMPRESSOR, you can take the oil pan, go 1 inch down, and 3 inches back from the front, and that's your return. if you are using a bottom mount t2 setup, i would prefer to go farther back, towards the shallower area, since that turbo sits a bit to the back in regard to the engine.

if you have a/c you may want to go 5 or 6 inches back to clear all that nonsense. depending on the line you use, it might be a bit variable seeing as some lines are more flexible. you just don't want to be going down under the a/c compressor and back up or something, where the oil can pool in the line and cause a clog/not flow well.

-10an or 5/8" line is plenty for return. bigger is better but -12 or more is overkill.

when doing the return bung, if the pan is off the car PLEASE DO remember to angle it upwards a bit, because the way the KA sits in the chassis, the exhaust side of the engine is angled downwards just a tad, and thus if you take a bung perpendicular to the pan coming straight out, when it's installed, it will actually be pointing down...i made that mistake...luckily mine will get grimy and maybe drop 2 or 3 oil droplets over a weeks time if that but its mostly sealed up. i used a regular barbed bung with a nut on the backside (from an old style kit years ago that i got). i would definitely recommend having a stainless return line with AN style fittings and stuff to ensure the proper seal, so if its in a tight space or slightly dipping lower than you need it, it wont find a way to leak out.

i use high temp silicone line (similar to the jgs kit - i just custom did mine from atpturbo.com's components) and it works fine, other than getting grimy sometimes, but pretty much everything in that area of the engine gets dirty sooner or later lol.

 

have fun w/ that dp shit. lol. the last booger welded one i have had a major space issue. tho teh jgs one werks great just takes a month to get to ya. also check ka-t.org they have a dp group buy a few weeks ago.
~skott