Opinions needed for BOOST project
Opinions needed for BOOST project
What's up guys? here's the scenario; I own a '96 honda civic ex, with a B16A built for boost (not sleeved), and I have a good turbo setup together aside from the manifold.. but here's the problem, it's my only car and i've had a few friends recently blow their engines with similar setups, and it's making it hard to actually pay $900 for a manifold setup just to risk breaking down and screwing myself..
SO, I pulled an SR20DE from a 2000 infiniti g20 today, 180k miles on an automatic tranny. cam lobes look mint, no sluge build up.. the internals look great. I'm suppose to go back to the junk yard tomorrow and pony up $200 for the complete motor minus the tranny. My plans are to put my turbonetics T3/T04e 57 trim
, 780cc injectors, etc. on the SR20 and drop it into a B13 Nissan Sentra..
So I'm asking, Does this sound like a good idea to you guys? To me it seems logical since the SR20 is known for the stock internals hold almost 2x what a Honda motor does boosted.
SO, I pulled an SR20DE from a 2000 infiniti g20 today, 180k miles on an automatic tranny. cam lobes look mint, no sluge build up.. the internals look great. I'm suppose to go back to the junk yard tomorrow and pony up $200 for the complete motor minus the tranny. My plans are to put my turbonetics T3/T04e 57 trim
, 780cc injectors, etc. on the SR20 and drop it into a B13 Nissan Sentra..
So I'm asking, Does this sound like a good idea to you guys? To me it seems logical since the SR20 is known for the stock internals hold almost 2x what a Honda motor does boosted.
I agree.
my theory is, the SR20 is a solid block, meaning there are no sleeves to crack or walk during extreme pressure.. as long as I pull the rods, drop in some forged pistons, ARP rod bolts & head studs, and a metal headgasket.. the SR20 will out do my B16A built the same way.. for a fraction of the price even.
I hate to come this far with the civic, just to abandon the project, but my theory makes sense right?
my theory is, the SR20 is a solid block, meaning there are no sleeves to crack or walk during extreme pressure.. as long as I pull the rods, drop in some forged pistons, ARP rod bolts & head studs, and a metal headgasket.. the SR20 will out do my B16A built the same way.. for a fraction of the price even.
I hate to come this far with the civic, just to abandon the project, but my theory makes sense right?
with 180k miles on that motor, AND your going to be boosted, i would honestly 1. rebuild it with oem or forged internals, or 2. swap the motor but keep it N/a until you can afford to go boosted with a rebuild