sr idle/misc issues
couple of probably simple questions...
it idles a bit rough @ temp, Im running extremely rich; with a decent amount of smoke, and there is an intermitent problem of bogging in between 3-4k (which might not even be relavent to the first two symptoms, lol). maybe a problem with the iaa? I havent gotten in there to diagnos anything yet, so i figured id ask here for now...
and also, on the T port of the valve cover, the port facing the radiator is disconnected/open. should this be recirculated or connected with a simple breather?
and you can excpect more noob sr questions as im trying my best to learn this shit on my own.
it idles a bit rough @ temp, Im running extremely rich; with a decent amount of smoke, and there is an intermitent problem of bogging in between 3-4k (which might not even be relavent to the first two symptoms, lol). maybe a problem with the iaa? I havent gotten in there to diagnos anything yet, so i figured id ask here for now...
and also, on the T port of the valve cover, the port facing the radiator is disconnected/open. should this be recirculated or connected with a simple breather?
and you can excpect more noob sr questions as im trying my best to learn this shit on my own.
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first off, list your mods...
stock mafs? safc? stock boost/injectors?
i ask about them because the settings can be picky as fuck, and getting a z32 maf to idle right can be a pain in the ass
running rich could be a bad tune (if any), a boost leak, leaking injectors or a mess of other things... if you're running a stock ecu and mafs it's likely you need to have do a fuel injectors test to see if they're leaking gas
and about the PCV T on the vavle over
if its open,
you're getting road grime, dust and dirt in your oil
put a discount auto cheapass 5 dollar air filter on it and do an oil change
stock mafs? safc? stock boost/injectors?
i ask about them because the settings can be picky as fuck, and getting a z32 maf to idle right can be a pain in the ass
running rich could be a bad tune (if any), a boost leak, leaking injectors or a mess of other things... if you're running a stock ecu and mafs it's likely you need to have do a fuel injectors test to see if they're leaking gas
and about the PCV T on the vavle over
if its open,
you're getting road grime, dust and dirt in your oil
put a discount auto cheapass 5 dollar air filter on it and do an oil change
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Originally Posted by dan
granted, people are allowed to do what they want to their car. if it makes you happy or pleases you, do it. just dont expect the rest of us to care, approve, or suck your dick for doing it.
TR Stock Steering-Wheel Crew
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yea, its a z32 MAF, 600cc injectors w/ an enthalpy tune s13 ecu...
about the PCV, i figured a breather would do the job, just wondered if there were other recomendations.
about the PCV, i figured a breather would do the job, just wondered if there were other recomendations.
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if it's an enthaply tune, it' probably a sensor, or leaking injectors
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Originally Posted by dan
granted, people are allowed to do what they want to their car. if it makes you happy or pleases you, do it. just dont expect the rest of us to care, approve, or suck your dick for doing it.
TR Stock Steering-Wheel Crew
Member #001
Member #001
TR "Old Skool DA" crew
Member #01.8L
Member #01.8L
sounds like coolant temp sensor perhaps, usually a cause of bogging and richness around 4k RPMs, esp if it only starts once u warm up. also if this is a newer car you just got, it might help to go ahead and do some routine maintenance on it like check the o2 sensor and TPS voltages, to make sure they are working within spec. the MAFs could be a factor too, swap it out with someones for a day to check that as well.
verify fuel pressure is set to stock.
the valve cover Tee isnt the PCV valve, that is on the rear passenger side that splits into 2 and routes into the intake runners by the injectors/head. but that is part of the system, and should technically be reconnected to the intake pipe, but i would have a catch can inline so it doesnt gunk up stuff.
verify fuel pressure is set to stock.
the valve cover Tee isnt the PCV valve, that is on the rear passenger side that splits into 2 and routes into the intake runners by the injectors/head. but that is part of the system, and should technically be reconnected to the intake pipe, but i would have a catch can inline so it doesnt gunk up stuff.
also if this is a newer car you just got, it might help to go ahead and do some routine maintenance on it like check the o2 sensor and TPS voltages, to make sure they are working within spec. the MAFs could be a factor too, swap it out with someones for a day to check that as well.
i would have a catch can inline so it doesnt gunk up stuff.
i would have a catch can inline so it doesnt gunk up stuff.
and you read my mind, a catch can is definately in the works.
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Alright, im definately going with the coolant temp sensor. Driving home today, it was (lets call it) bogging so bad my head was getting in touch with my steering wheel and head-rest.
Supposedly my car was running at 190-210* and idle was good. Although when I park the car, I check under the hood and you can hear the coolant boiling. The overflow tube was dancing widly and there's tasty looking green puddle under my car, YAY!
Supposedly my car was running at 190-210* and idle was good. Although when I park the car, I check under the hood and you can hear the coolant boiling. The overflow tube was dancing widly and there's tasty looking green puddle under my car, YAY!
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