i have a 1991 nissan 240sx i just got done replacing my ka for another ka. i'm now reseaching the sr20det swap and was wondering if anyone had any hints or tips for making my swap easier. i,ve found some install info but still looking for more.

 

talk to blake about it, hes done a few

 

If you've done a ka->ka swap, then an SR is not much different. The SR has a ton of little hoses and lines, especially for the turbo. The turbo coolant line that goes behind the head is notorious. Make sure you have all the lines put on correctly (including the motor-side heater hoses) before you drop the motor in.

 

Prep up the SR motor before you install it.
-As in, replace all engine hoses, even if they dont look bad, just replace them so you dont have to worry about them for awhile.
-Build it up, if you can. Stock SR power isn't enough. You may think it's enough, but several months down the road, you wish you bored it out to a 2.4 liter, or did some internal works.
-Drill and install a extra nipple for oil termostate for the oil gauge on the oil pan. It's good to have it.
-Replace water pump
-Replace pulley belts
-Replace crank oil seals. Upgrade to aluminum pulley while youre at it
-Replace your power steering lines/hoses on the front cross member. <= highly recommended
-Paint the engine bay of the car

If I could do it all over again on my 240, I would go with KADET

 

ill do it for $800

 

There's no reason to build the motor right off the bat if he's coming from a KA. You can make 350 whp reliably on an SR with the correct bolt on mods. no need to get crazy with it. My car barely touches 250 and is an absolute riot to drive. a balanced car really makes up for a rocketship with horsepower that can barely be enjoyed because the rest of the car is a piece of shit.

for someone that's posting like this, not knowing a whole lot, the last thing you should reccomend is him tearing into his motor, because nissan already did a superb job assembling it from the factory.

Replacing the crank pulley with an aluminum one is a major thumbs down. if anything, he could upgrade to a fluidamper or ati super damper pulley, but those are expensive and only needed when doing major types of racing. Nissan put plenty of engineering into the stock crankshaft pulley, it will do the job just fine, as well as work perfectly with all stock belt sizes, and provide a long life for the new belts he's putting on, allowing all of the tensioners to work in the center of their adjustment, and everyone being happy.

WIth the proper degreaser and cleaning, a nice clean stock base primer'd engine bay looks awesome in an S13. There's no need to repaint your engine bay if you're simply swapping out the motors. This is another example of wasted time and money, and if he's going to do it, you forgot that he has to purchase all new tabs and hardware and plastic hold downs for the engine wiring harness, brake lines, clutch line, lower harness, fuel lines, power steering lines, etc. Buy some simple green, buy a few toothbrushes, and fall in love with your car. that's the best way to do it.

Rather than replace the water pump, an easy thing to do is to take it off, inspect it. if its rusted or in bad shape, then replace it. if it's not, simply re seal it with Permatex Ultra Grey. this will save you ~$80.00 as well.

 

Heavy Throttle idk why ppl cant just post link with out fucking bullshit......go there clicko n SR install faq... all answers are there.

 

As far as getting the SR in (mechanically speaking) it is a 99% a direct replacement. One of the mounts on the SR is slightly diffrent then the KA mounts ( i believe it was the passenger side, don't recall off of the top of my head exactly). I suggest using the JDM SR mount, or if you upgrade the true RWD JDM nismo mount (or equiv.). I would definetely recommend having a wiring service done, most shops have prefabbed lengths and their wiring harness's come out looking like oem, unlike the slop that most people put together (due to lengthy wires). Definetely replace the OEM SR , and the OEM flywheel with a lighter weight unit ( I went with a exedy hyper single on my old car, maybe too aggressive for some). Change your turbine inlet/discharge gaskets (as well as compressor inlet gasket), before you put the SR into the vehicle. Change the belts, and this is a big must do. Change the oil pan with a new unit (this is a must, even if the thing looks like it's just slightly dinged.) this can pinch oilflow to the oilpickup and starve the engine of oil. If you have big hands, make sure you get the heater hoses on before the engine goes into the car. Reuse your stock KA dustcap on your output shaft. And don't forget to make your cutout for the SMIC or Battery tray cutout for your FMIC (if you will be running one). Make sure you have a hotpipe, replace your coolant temp sensor with a new unit.... the list goes on and on and on. All in all , it's damn time consuming. Not very difficult, just time consuming. Their is a reason why most shops charge $1,000 in labor for this swap.

 

Check this out.
Here's plenty of tips and advises on the swap.

SR20DET Swap FAQ [Archive] - DRIFTING.com

 

there is so much misinformation in this thread and these links it makes me sick.