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Sr Motor Got Messed Up!!!???

Old Oct 4, 2006 | 06:25 AM
  #31 (permalink)  
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matt i think your a dick but thats funny
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 06:28 AM
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Old Oct 4, 2006 | 02:57 PM
  #33 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by Matt Vassallo
Do you want to bet me?

S14T-MATTBACK.ROM

REV LIMIT 1 9300
REV LIMIT 2 9300
REV LIMIT 3 9300

I think you meant to say that YOUR engine doesn't rev to 9k+.
i know my engine doesn't rev past stock rev limiter. ok. i've never said otherwise.

my comment comes from the fact that i've heard from multiple people that your sr doesn't rev to 9k much less to 9k+, but I suppose thats your word versus theirs. i've also never seen a dyno chart of your motor revving out, but I understand not wanting to post that on a public forum, and I'm not asking you to.
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Originally Posted by osama tim laden
This things too low... raise it off the towhooks.
(O=O/-ROUGH WORLD-\O=O)
Old Oct 4, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #34 (permalink)  
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Wyay to bring this way off topic, but:

1) there is no power up there. It's simply over-rev. I run 256/264 cams. I'd need at least 270/280 in order for there to be useful power up there.

2) I usually take it to 8300 when i'm revving it out because I can't shift the transmission past that. However I have a Pfitzner Performance Gearbox 5 speed helical dog engagement race transmission on order, so that should solve the shifting problems, along with a reduced inertia lightweight twin disc clutch assembly.

3) I have free revved it to i want to say 9300-9400-9500 before. It's not safe on stock pistons to spend extended durations up there, the same goes for the fasteners on the factory connecting rods. albeit very strong, but i don't need to take too many other chances. Basically, at that speed, I'm asking for the engine to come apart. Whether a valve floats, a retainer drops, connecting rod bolts, something happens. It's kind of dangerous. but whatever, I hang out on the thin ice, especially since i've lost over 30 pounds in the past six months.

4) I DID however, mechanically over rev in a 5th to 2nd accident that I want to say put me in deceleration from about 9500 or so all the way down. blue shift knob for the win.

I hope this information helps, since apparently the cool thing to do these days is play high school based 'he said she said.'

Lastly, I'm currently doing research on viscosity losses of lubrication fluids due to shock and vibration. rev-limiters have produced disastrous results on SRs, while free revs have not. Why is this? What is the reason? Are the current countermeasures correct? I'm not entirely sure just yet, which is why this is such an interesting topic to me. I know it is adversely affecting the hydraulic lash adjusters, but could it also hurt a solid lash set-up cylinder head? I have crashed my engine into the the 8600 rpm limit when i had it countless times. Especially in the rain and on soft tires. But I wonder if ti causes more wear than is necessarry. So naturally the next thing to do was to set the rev limiter higher than I would ever try to go. 9300. Well, that ended up being obtainable, so we went higher. I finally decided to leave it there because at least, well, if you're past that point. lets just view it as the point of no return. Or the point of complete stupidity. But I view my redline like this:


me at 9000+

everybody else ---> below clouds

So basically, I do so because I can, and you can't.
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Last edited by Matt Vassallo; Oct 4, 2006 at 08:54 PM.
Old Oct 5, 2006 | 07:29 AM
  #35 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by Matt Vassallo
Wyay to bring this way off topic, but:

1) there is no power up there. It's simply over-rev. I run 256/264 cams. I'd need at least 270/280 in order for there to be useful power up there.

2) I usually take it to 8300 when i'm revving it out because I can't shift the transmission past that. However I have a Pfitzner Performance Gearbox 5 speed helical dog engagement race transmission on order, so that should solve the shifting problems, along with a reduced inertia lightweight twin disc clutch assembly.

3) I have free revved it to i want to say 9300-9400-9500 before. It's not safe on stock pistons to spend extended durations up there, the same goes for the fasteners on the factory connecting rods. albeit very strong, but i don't need to take too many other chances. Basically, at that speed, I'm asking for the engine to come apart. Whether a valve floats, a retainer drops, connecting rod bolts, something happens. It's kind of dangerous. but whatever, I hang out on the thin ice, especially since i've lost over 30 pounds in the past six months.

4) I DID however, mechanically over rev in a 5th to 2nd accident that I want to say put me in deceleration from about 9500 or so all the way down. blue shift knob for the win.

I hope this information helps, since apparently the cool thing to do these days is play high school based 'he said she said.'

Lastly, I'm currently doing research on viscosity losses of lubrication fluids due to shock and vibration. rev-limiters have produced disastrous results on SRs, while free revs have not. Why is this? What is the reason? Are the current countermeasures correct? I'm not entirely sure just yet, which is why this is such an interesting topic to me. I know it is adversely affecting the hydraulic lash adjusters, but could it also hurt a solid lash set-up cylinder head? I have crashed my engine into the the 8600 rpm limit when i had it countless times. Especially in the rain and on soft tires. But I wonder if ti causes more wear than is necessarry. So naturally the next thing to do was to set the rev limiter higher than I would ever try to go. 9300. Well, that ended up being obtainable, so we went higher. I finally decided to leave it there because at least, well, if you're past that point. lets just view it as the point of no return. Or the point of complete stupidity. But I view my redline like this:


me at 9000+

everybody else ---> below clouds

So basically, I do so because I can, and you can't.

I can rev that high and I would make more powa doing it too. I have the cams to do it. Besides duration you also have to have the lift, 12.5mm lift is why I had to do solid lifters in the first place. I have no doubt that my head is ready for 10,000 RPM's, I just worry about my bearings with heavy stock rods. Mazworx revs to kingdom come because we have almost identical heads but they also have alluminum rods. If I revved to 9000 rpm's I would put down 590 rwhp instead of 525ish. I make full boost @ 4500 and 525 hp @ 8600 right now so I have no need drivability wise to rev any higher. I would like to join you above the clouds Matt but i dont think I wil ever take the Punisher past 9k. Whats up with this helical dog tranny you mentioned? I thought we were gonna get OS giken gear sets so we could run first gear up to 80 mph with our high reving SR's.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 09:30 AM
  #36 (permalink)  
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OS gikens have synchonizers. I watched a video of the aussie guys driving the dog boxes, and its the same violent driving that i love.
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rest in peace tim.
Old Oct 5, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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well I need the syncros for the quick shifting I do. I wanna be able to throw the gears so fast it sounds like I have an air tranny.
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Old Oct 5, 2006 | 12:07 PM
  #38 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by DriftingDJ
well I need the syncros for the quick shifting I do. I wanna be able to throw the gears so fast it sounds like I have an air tranny.

your car + C4 + badass stall + good gearing. hehehe. will be nice for daily driving it too
Old Oct 5, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DriftingDJ
well I need the syncros for the quick shifting I do. I wanna be able to throw the gears so fast it sounds like I have an air tranny.

With a dog box you can pull the gear without ever pressing the clutch or lifting off the gas. You can hook up an air shifter to it if you want to slam the lever as fast as you want and it will go.

with a synchro you have to let the synchro catch up.

the dog box is downright violent on the street though.
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Old Oct 6, 2006 | 01:05 AM
  #40 (permalink)  
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Matt Vass is my Hero.

Now help me get my motor up to 9k. That's always been my dream.


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