is it possible to gauge how much roll youll need without it being lowered yet, or without spacers... i know nothing about rolling, and will most likely pay someone to do it for me because i dont want that nasty dimple above my fender.
heres my wheel specs:
rear - 18x9.5 on 265's with a +30 offset
front - 18x8.5 on 235's with a +25

still saving up for coils

 

I just rolled mine's out to what looks good to me, then the camber of the wheels will be adjusted to work with the fender.
No clue how those pros roll their's w/o dimples. Probably roll it very slowly with very lil roll on it.

 

^ bondo, sand, bondo, sand again, bondo, sand with 300g or higher, prime, base, clear done!

 

Then people should expect to pay +$800 for rolled fenders since it requires repainting of the fenders???

 

I didn't really roll mine...haha. Well my fronts rolled themselves from the tire rubbing, the front fender is thin metal. The rest of it and the rears I "rolled" by just bashing the fender lip in flat against the fender. That doesnt create the dents.

The dent is created from pulling, which is what I'm assuming you mean, not rolling. After a certain amount of pull, it's going to cause the dent. Take a sheet of paper and arch it, then try to bow out (pull) one of the arched sides, the same dent should happen...or it just wont want to bend at all.

Other than fixing with body work, or dealing with cracked paint back there, is to get inside the rear fender and seperate it (cut) from the body portion of it. there is a seam back there on s14 (probably s13 too) that when seperated, apparently makes it easier to get more pull and with less chance of the elusive dent happening above the fender. and doing it slowly helps too, one u see the dent start, stop pulling and either find a way to keep going, or if u need more pull, find a repuatable body shop to do it. i know user 'chmercer' did it on his s14, seperated the fender from the wheel well metal, he has a massive pull out back with 12 or 13" wide wheels out back (like -30mm offset lol).

 

ive also heard something about heating up the metal, to make it more pliable... again i know nothing on this subject, i probably couldnt even point a fender roller out in a line up... i guess ill just have to wait and see if i need my fenders rolled, or whatever

 

malleable is the word.
Yes it does make it alot easier to roll if its warmed up. I had to learn it the hard way.
Mount your wheels and tires, then see how much you want to go out, and figure where you want the bend to start.
It's kinda easy stuff, but it can fu*k up the looks of your car if its not done right. Ive seen some fu*ked up ones before.

As far as cutting the inner fender lining, it would make it much much easier, but dirt and rust will build up inside those cavities if its not covered or protected with rubberized lining.

 

The Eastwood instructions that came with mine say to heat it up with a heat gun while you're rolling it to keep the paint from cracking.

 

No sh1t. It's the angle and where the rolling starts is the most important. Heating it up would only make it more malleable, that's all.
As i said, if one of the goal is not to chip any paint, the rolling is limited.

 

I don't have a nissan but I need to get my fenders rolled and the front ones pulled(thats like flaring right?) like Jonas was saying. Anyone want to take on the project for some cash? its a 99 crown vic.