doin it doin it doin it right ! ! ! !
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doin it doin it doin it right ! ! ! !
ok, so i have a spare dohc KA out of a 93. I want to build it up PROPERLY so that i can turbo it with confidence. I have done searches in every website and all i find are arguments over people's preferences but no answers. Since TR has a collective of knowledgable KA techs, all i would like to have is a list of some sort. I do not want to build a 2 fast 2 furious almighty engine - just a RELIABLE TURBO setup. I appreciate your help in advance. Now, bless me with the flow of knowledge...
TRA! TRA! TRA!
Joined: Mar 2005
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Originally Posted by dan
ps - the word budget does not apply. do it right, or do it twice 
"done it twice"...hmmm......
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Last edited by AIRWIK; Dec 28, 2005 at 07:21 AM.
A to the K
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http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6263
What exactly are you asking? How much are you looking to spend?
What exactly are you asking? How much are you looking to spend?
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Sideways Maffia
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,727
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do connecting rods, T28 or bigger turbo, 370cc's-480cc injectors, ROM tune, FMIC, etc...expect to hit about 3 grand with no money in the tranny - to hold that much "reliably".
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NOBAMA!
NOBAMA!
Last edited by RubberBerner; Dec 27, 2005 at 08:15 PM.
Get the fuck off my lawn
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i'm going to throw this at you for about 280-300 max at the wheels (with at least 280 or more torque), running about 13-14psi.
motor - stock. i'd keep power steering
remove:
-evap, egr, aiv (s13), scv (s13), a/c, cruise control
-relocate ps reservoir behind strut tower near clutch master cylinder
-relocate fuse boxes to interior (glove box/radio/rear seat side panel [trick!])
-tuck and trim harness, route under intake manifold runners
-relocate coolant overflow tank (just get a metal one or gatorade bottle since it's likely your s13 one is shitty) somewhere behind the bumper.
-lose as many misc unused brackets you can.
setup:
-walbro. do the relay mod for $8
-300zx filter
-deatschwerks 550's. cheap, drop-in, awesome. could probably use 480s for that setup, but these will cost you <$300.
-z mafs
-enthalpy tune.
-ngk bkr7e plugs
-relocate the battery to the trunk.
-stock radiator is fine, koyo is bling, your choice.
-altima fans or 16" spal single. lose the stock stuff...it's good for alot of HP, but not for cleanliness.
-oil feed and return lines for turbo. tap the oil pan. since no a/c, tap it in the front like you see on pics on 240 related forums. if using a/c, tap it more towards the back to clear that. keep it high near the flange...and between the holes to mount it to the block. hehe. -3an feed and -10an return. -3an feed requires no restrictor.
-ssautochrome t2 manifold. fuck haters. their ka stuff works. i havnt heard cases of cracking yet. you'll be fine. if you get skurred, jgs log = bottom mount with a t2 style flange.
-t28. gti-r is best, expect some piping clearance issues and small stuff. s15 t28, just as good. t25...just as good, esp for your app. forget using the coolant lines.
-get hks wastegate actuator so you can hold past 12psi sustained.
-home depot $20 manual boost controller. you're only using it to up the boost like 1-2 psi, no it wont ridiculously spike or creep. enthalpy is your friend, if you hit 15psi, you wont die.
-boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. you dont need anything else. you got the mbc, the afc is junk (enthalpy wins again), and a turbo timer is only if you cant be easy for the last 30 seconds pulling into whatever parking spot you end up in. (and t25's are like $200 in case it dies 3 yrs down the road)
-wideband is a preference. with the rom tune and a fine dyno tuning of it (since you're local to scott), you'll be fine. he plopped a basemap in my car and the wideband already had it running close to perfect (but im sure we'll extract some extra power out of it when i make it to the dyno).
now...since you have bottom mount sr style t2 turbo setup. everything else is cake.
-custom or enjuku intake pipe with a z maf style filter deal.
-intercooling...custom is cheapest. precision 350hp intercooler, small, badass. throw in some couplers, t bolt clamps and route the piping up by the a/c dryer area (since you wont have it there anyways). pop the battery tray off, and it'll be so fresh and so clean.....OR go enjuku s13 SR hotpipe and greddy s13 SR fmic. get a longer (5-6") coupler for cold pipe to throttle body connection and voila it fits the KA.
-bov...2 options for placement. recirculation = WIN. you run so much better with it. and fuck s-afc's. $250 or more for a decel setting. bah. the rest you wont need.
cleanliness = use the stock nipple on the greddy fmic kit (lower driver front fenderwell/bumper area - where stock S13 SR bov is)...recircing is nice right up into the engine bay/intake pipe. or use the enjuku hotpipe with a bov...it also minimizes recirc tube length, but you'll see the bov up there and all. and bov noises are overrated.
catch can = not required by any means....but for a correct way, do this.
pull intake manifold. weld up all the unused bullshit ports for the IACV-FICD (which jumps your idle up for a/c - which you wont have), PCV return nipples, egr return, scv holes if any, and pretty much everything except the nipple for the FPR and the brake booster. now, route the pcv valve, which is behind the alternator on the block, to a TEE...tee the valve cover breather into this, and run the 2 tee'd lines to the catch can. now run the can can's other line to the intake pipe. hide the can and lines and you now have a good vacuum pulling crankcase vapors out of the pcv and the valve cover and its unpressurized in the intake pipe, good to go.
moving on.
jgs tools or nismo motor mounts. do this while the motor's out or during oil pan swapping time...you'll thank me later and so will your knuckles and fingers and whatever else you might end up scraping/cutting/slicing/burning.
pick out your favorite shiny spl/greddy/ssac/hks/megan/helix o2 elbow. or use a stock t25 one. but theyre pretty cheap.
pick out your favorite shiny downpipe and test pipe. xs engineering 3" cat delete recommended. less gaskets = less leaks = less bolts to tighten during maintenance or random removals...$160 for the xs piece. my brother has it. bling = nice = good.
pick out your favorite drifter/dragracer/street/fanboy/stealthy/custom whatever exhaust. this needs no explanation.
what else?? other gauges you might want are perhaps a water temp. but you should be fine if you bleed and fill your system right and wire up the fan right and etc. a renova or garage defend carbon cooling panel keeps the clean theme.
run the oil feed line UNDER the motor, makes it clean.
bypass the throttle body coolant lines, theyre weaksauce. remove that whole mess of random hardlines and shit down there too. i'd probably keep heater hoses, just because it's nice and doenst require a shitload of extra crap like keeping the a/c system would. and if you're like me you can deal with some heat, but not cold lol.
you're an s13...relocate the external coil, or find someone to whip you up s14 dizzy for the clean points again.
next, fill in the holes youre not using, paint the bay, and paint, polish, powdercoat, and anodize your way to godly goodness.
and if you want to go all out, convert the brakelines on the top firewall to ss braided units and run them low and away.
ok im done im getting carried away.
ps - spl full stainless clutch line for the tuck/clean, fidanza flywheel, and rps max full disc clutch for the win. 400 tq rating, drives like stock clutch with a nicer pedal pressure. throw on your favorite (v)lsd, and a one piece driveshaft if youre ballin' and thats good to go.
pps - this setup including tranny shit is probably UNDER $3500 if you dont include all the bullshit stuff that you'll spend making it look nice and all. (like no cooling mods and doing custom piping and etc)
motor - stock. i'd keep power steering
remove:
-evap, egr, aiv (s13), scv (s13), a/c, cruise control
-relocate ps reservoir behind strut tower near clutch master cylinder
-relocate fuse boxes to interior (glove box/radio/rear seat side panel [trick!])
-tuck and trim harness, route under intake manifold runners
-relocate coolant overflow tank (just get a metal one or gatorade bottle since it's likely your s13 one is shitty) somewhere behind the bumper.
-lose as many misc unused brackets you can.
setup:
-walbro. do the relay mod for $8
-300zx filter
-deatschwerks 550's. cheap, drop-in, awesome. could probably use 480s for that setup, but these will cost you <$300.
-z mafs
-enthalpy tune.
-ngk bkr7e plugs
-relocate the battery to the trunk.
-stock radiator is fine, koyo is bling, your choice.
-altima fans or 16" spal single. lose the stock stuff...it's good for alot of HP, but not for cleanliness.
-oil feed and return lines for turbo. tap the oil pan. since no a/c, tap it in the front like you see on pics on 240 related forums. if using a/c, tap it more towards the back to clear that. keep it high near the flange...and between the holes to mount it to the block. hehe. -3an feed and -10an return. -3an feed requires no restrictor.
-ssautochrome t2 manifold. fuck haters. their ka stuff works. i havnt heard cases of cracking yet. you'll be fine. if you get skurred, jgs log = bottom mount with a t2 style flange.
-t28. gti-r is best, expect some piping clearance issues and small stuff. s15 t28, just as good. t25...just as good, esp for your app. forget using the coolant lines.
-get hks wastegate actuator so you can hold past 12psi sustained.
-home depot $20 manual boost controller. you're only using it to up the boost like 1-2 psi, no it wont ridiculously spike or creep. enthalpy is your friend, if you hit 15psi, you wont die.
-boost gauge and oil pressure gauge. you dont need anything else. you got the mbc, the afc is junk (enthalpy wins again), and a turbo timer is only if you cant be easy for the last 30 seconds pulling into whatever parking spot you end up in. (and t25's are like $200 in case it dies 3 yrs down the road)
-wideband is a preference. with the rom tune and a fine dyno tuning of it (since you're local to scott), you'll be fine. he plopped a basemap in my car and the wideband already had it running close to perfect (but im sure we'll extract some extra power out of it when i make it to the dyno).
now...since you have bottom mount sr style t2 turbo setup. everything else is cake.
-custom or enjuku intake pipe with a z maf style filter deal.
-intercooling...custom is cheapest. precision 350hp intercooler, small, badass. throw in some couplers, t bolt clamps and route the piping up by the a/c dryer area (since you wont have it there anyways). pop the battery tray off, and it'll be so fresh and so clean.....OR go enjuku s13 SR hotpipe and greddy s13 SR fmic. get a longer (5-6") coupler for cold pipe to throttle body connection and voila it fits the KA.
-bov...2 options for placement. recirculation = WIN. you run so much better with it. and fuck s-afc's. $250 or more for a decel setting. bah. the rest you wont need.
cleanliness = use the stock nipple on the greddy fmic kit (lower driver front fenderwell/bumper area - where stock S13 SR bov is)...recircing is nice right up into the engine bay/intake pipe. or use the enjuku hotpipe with a bov...it also minimizes recirc tube length, but you'll see the bov up there and all. and bov noises are overrated.
catch can = not required by any means....but for a correct way, do this.
pull intake manifold. weld up all the unused bullshit ports for the IACV-FICD (which jumps your idle up for a/c - which you wont have), PCV return nipples, egr return, scv holes if any, and pretty much everything except the nipple for the FPR and the brake booster. now, route the pcv valve, which is behind the alternator on the block, to a TEE...tee the valve cover breather into this, and run the 2 tee'd lines to the catch can. now run the can can's other line to the intake pipe. hide the can and lines and you now have a good vacuum pulling crankcase vapors out of the pcv and the valve cover and its unpressurized in the intake pipe, good to go.
moving on.
jgs tools or nismo motor mounts. do this while the motor's out or during oil pan swapping time...you'll thank me later and so will your knuckles and fingers and whatever else you might end up scraping/cutting/slicing/burning.
pick out your favorite shiny spl/greddy/ssac/hks/megan/helix o2 elbow. or use a stock t25 one. but theyre pretty cheap.
pick out your favorite shiny downpipe and test pipe. xs engineering 3" cat delete recommended. less gaskets = less leaks = less bolts to tighten during maintenance or random removals...$160 for the xs piece. my brother has it. bling = nice = good.
pick out your favorite drifter/dragracer/street/fanboy/stealthy/custom whatever exhaust. this needs no explanation.
what else?? other gauges you might want are perhaps a water temp. but you should be fine if you bleed and fill your system right and wire up the fan right and etc. a renova or garage defend carbon cooling panel keeps the clean theme.
run the oil feed line UNDER the motor, makes it clean.
bypass the throttle body coolant lines, theyre weaksauce. remove that whole mess of random hardlines and shit down there too. i'd probably keep heater hoses, just because it's nice and doenst require a shitload of extra crap like keeping the a/c system would. and if you're like me you can deal with some heat, but not cold lol.
you're an s13...relocate the external coil, or find someone to whip you up s14 dizzy for the clean points again.
next, fill in the holes youre not using, paint the bay, and paint, polish, powdercoat, and anodize your way to godly goodness.
and if you want to go all out, convert the brakelines on the top firewall to ss braided units and run them low and away.
ok im done im getting carried away.
ps - spl full stainless clutch line for the tuck/clean, fidanza flywheel, and rps max full disc clutch for the win. 400 tq rating, drives like stock clutch with a nicer pedal pressure. throw on your favorite (v)lsd, and a one piece driveshaft if youre ballin' and thats good to go.
pps - this setup including tranny shit is probably UNDER $3500 if you dont include all the bullshit stuff that you'll spend making it look nice and all. (like no cooling mods and doing custom piping and etc)
Last edited by dan; Dec 27, 2005 at 09:25 PM.
