I just dug up some more info about reading codes. Some ECUs don't have an LED to read codes with. This does not leave you out in the cold. Go back to the dash connector that was rewired during the swap and connect the red wires together. This will allow the ECU to flash the malfunction light in the cluster to output codes. All of the wiring tutorials, including the NPM listed above, do not tell you to connect these wires. It will not work without it!

 

I just pulled the code and I pulled a 12 and a 43?

 

hahaha. When I posted "bliiiiink, blink blink", I did it knowing that code 12 is the MAFS code. Code 43 corresponds to the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. Having a multimeter will help a lot. I think both the SR and S13KA FSMs show great methods for troubleshooting these 2 sensors. Good luck!

 

well heres the latest... I swaped out the MAFS and the same problem occured. so now I decided to double check the wires where I extended the harness and decided to rearange the order
W/BW/B
B/W/BW
and now the car will go over 2500 to about 3500 but runs really rich and smokes black smoke pretty badly and wont hardly idle? Im starting to think that the harness is not the correct harness for the motor? do you know the exact combination for the MAFS?

 

When the ECU throws that code, it's because it either can't see any signal or the signal is way out of range. Now that you've swapped the wires around a bit, it sounds like the ECU is actually seeing a signal, it's just off by a lot. I've seen this exact thing happen when I wired a Z32 MAFS incorrectly. Idle voltage was like 2.0V instead of 0.9, so the car was super rich.

When you say "rearrange the order", are you changing the pin location on the connector? You either need to get the FSM, or try rearranging them again. There's only 3 wires, so there aren't that many possible combinations. Black is ground, white is signal, B/W is power. From experience, I'd say try swapping the W and BW first.

 

I looked it up for you.

Pin 1 = no connect
Pin 2 = B/W
Pin 3 = B
Pin 4 = W

 

Right, I matched all the wires acording to color code and thats when I was having the problems. I started changing the order and thats when I got a responce from the MAFS.

 

have you tried adjusting the tps?
i only ask because of the tps code.

 

I have not yet only becasue I dont think anything is wrong with it? Im want to fix the larger problem first. I would only think the TPS is keep it from running at idle and stall it out. But I cant get the car to rev past 3500 RPM's becasue it breaks up and sounds like alot of little backfiring througth the exhaust and runs real rich.

 

try adjusting it, and see what happens. cant hurt anything. and takes only seconds.