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ARP head stud Question...

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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DrftDmn
I have researched and talked with many of the big 240sx guys, Entalpy, Ken, Taylor, They all recommend ARP, Thanks for the advice though.
It is not something that I have personal experience with , just something that i have read , just put it out their as a suggestion/something for you to think about/look into. If these guy's recomended them i would probably stick with what they'de have to say.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DrftDmn
PS, I was told I can keep the VVT with 264 step 2 cams. ?? any truth to this
Yes it true, the VTC is connected back on the intake cam. If you went a little higher and went 272 then no the VTC would be eliminated. I have heard better performance from removing the VTC but for now I will also keep mine.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Brandon
here's how XAT told me to do it:
1. Put grease on head studs
2. Finger tighten
3. Take it back out
4. Put more grease
5. Finger tighten back in
6. Get allen wrench, tighten maybe a 1/4 turn after finger tighten
7. Put head on
8. torque to 30-60, untighten, 30-60-75-85
9. Put grease on the inside of nuts
10. Put on
11. Tq starting at 45lbs from the inside out
12. Go up every 10lbs to 75lbs

Just thought i'd throw in that step #8 since it wasnt in there
umm, your procedure doesn't work.

put head on, then torque ? torque what? the head studs into the block with the allen key on a torque wrench? no.

step 8 needs to relace steps 11 and 12.
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Old Oct 30, 2005 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Sr20phantom
Yes it true, the VTC is connected back on the intake cam. If you went a little higher and went 272 then no the VTC would be eliminated. I have heard better performance from removing the VTC but for now I will also keep mine.

the VTC isnt strong enough to compensate for anything larger than the 256 cams. thats why when you look up HKS part numbers, it only lists 256's for the S14 SR. if you want to run bigger, you have to eliminate the VTC gear and put on an S13 Sr gear.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 09:14 AM
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S13 cam gears are installed, Car has been set to factory timing marks and Cam angle sensor has been installed and rotated to its proper position, The only problem I face now is the Valve cover seems to be hitting on the Rocker Arm stoppers? It has a lip on the inside of the Valve cover that hangs down like 2 inchs, This lip hits the rocker arm stoppers and wont let the intake side of the Valve cover sit properly...It looks as though I will have to cut it out or grind down....Any thoughts.?
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 01:14 PM
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Ok well I started the car and it Idles RUFF, hardly at all, There is a wonderful oil leak coming from back of the head just above the turbo manifold on the back of the block.
The car had no Vaccum...and seems very much louder than normal. I dont know....Im a bit lost...Head was torqued to as par with advice given..Timing didnt skip a tooth....anyone? Im retarded.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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Just did compression check all Cylinders are 165 ruffly, I found a small 10mm Bolt on the back corner of the head directly bolting the head to the block..oil seems to be leaking from there, I went to pull it out and the threads are stripped....Could this 10mm bolt be the whole problem?
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DrftDmn
Just did compression check all Cylinders are 165 ruffly, I found a small 10mm Bolt on the back corner of the head directly bolting the head to the block..oil seems to be leaking from there, I went to pull it out and the threads are stripped....Could this 10mm bolt be the whole problem?
that is one of the head oil return ports that tend to leak if you dont have that 10mm tight but it wont hurt the idle though. something else is wrong. does it sound like your missing a cylinder kind of idle? when you start it do you have a lifter noise clackle? I have had this happen I just pulled the cams and re did everything again to make sure rockers are seated correctly shims are in place torque is to spec. OH and did you tighten down the cams starting middle outside to inside hand tight then repeating till ready for the torque wrench?
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:05 AM
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The car when it starts idles ruff, and low...I have hardly any vaccuum, and the oil and coolant leak from the same area...its strange, I followed all the FSM sequences and used the Torque specs from the book for the cams and Enthalpys info for the Headgasket specs...Im going to tear out the turbo and manifold and see if I cant tap out the 10mm hole again and re do it.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 03:05 PM
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Ok, well, I just checked the oil...and what is wierd is yesterday the oil was fine...today when I came in and went to show the oil to someone it has water in it. I have pulled the valve cover off. and its nice and milky....and the timing looks WAY off...The marks dont line up anymore.
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