Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

Have a few Sr20 questions????

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Old Jun 1, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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Default Have a few Sr20 questions????

I just have a 89 shell and want to put the sr20det in it. I just have a few questions like.


1.What parts should I replace before I put the engine in(shell has about 200k miles)?
2.I dont have any of the bolts or lines (the shell came with no engine) So what and how many would I need?
3.Where can I get a wiring harness for it?
4.What are some of the complicated parts of the install (so I know what to look out for)
5.How hard is the A/C install?
6.Is there any places around here where I can look or pick up the engine(I live in Tampa)?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocketman
I just have a 89 shell and want to put the sr20det in it. I just have a few questions like.


1.What parts should I replace before I put the engine in(shell has about 200k miles)?
nothing really, unless there are suspension parts severely worn out. BUT, you will need to install 91-94 power steering lines and it would make your life easier to go ahead and put in a 91-94 a/c condensor and line set instead of the 89-90 ones now while the motor's out

2.I dont have any of the bolts or lines (the shell came with no engine) So what and how many would I need?
youre going to need simple stuff like 5/16" Fuel Injection Hose (not just regular fuel line), a 300ZX fuel filter (works well), an 89-98 5 speed transmission bracket, an 89-94 5 speed driveshaft and random misc 10-14mm nuts and bolts.


3.Where can I get a wiring harness for it?
the motor set that you order will come with a harness for the SR. in order to do the wiring conversion for it, you will need a few plugs off the american harness. if you are without, cophers is riddled with single cam chassis


4.What are some of the complicated parts of the install (so I know what to look out for)
[b]the motor is a straight bolt in affair. the main difficulties are things like cutting the holes in the battery tray and whatnot for the intercooler pipes, doing the wiring (have someone who knows how do it), and putting the driveshaft on... its not difficult... just a pain in the ass.

5.How hard is the A/C install?
depends on how hard you want to make it. ALWAYS use the SR compressor; reguardless what people say. it wont chew up belts. you can use the single cam condensor and lines, but you will have to have the JDM a/c line ends brazed/welded onto the ends of the american lines so they bolt right up. you can also put in a twin cam condensor and line set, but you still need to modify the line ends, but the twin cam condensors are usually in better shape

6.Is there any places around here where I can look or pick up the engine(I live in Tampa)?
there are quite few shops in town that sell SR's.. some might even have a few in stock.. you have my shop in Safety Harbour, and Z Fever and XAT in Tampa. My shop also offers the wiring service needed to mondify the SR harness to work in your 240SX like a factory harness. the decision is really up to you, call around. ask questions. make a decision based on their previous accomplishments and whatnot...
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 08:09 AM
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edit: didn't see that Taylor responded inside the quote box. Here's more info!



1. I have built a car around a 200k chassis. You have to replace everything! Tie rods, ball joints, bushings, shocks, brakes... anything that can be considered a wear item. Not to discourage you, but it's a lot of work and money.

2. The only things that will be hard to find are the dual-cam (91-94) power steering lines and reservoir. The radiator and heater hoses can be purchased anywhere. Some local shops know exactly which hoses fit best, since normal parts won't work. For AC, see #5.

3. If you physically have no harness, then you're going to need to buy one. They run about $300 new. If you're talking about converting the SR harness to work in your 89, then you can do it yourself, or have someone do it. Taylor has been "mondifying" harness for a few years and goes beyond simply splicing a few wires.

4. The hardest part is to get the motor to slide in. Sometimes they go right in. Sometimes you have to wrestle it with a couple 2x4's.

5. AC is simply connecting a few wires (in the main harness), and getting a few AC lines made. Lines should cost anywhere between $100 and $200. You'll be using the SR compressor, and you'll need the original lines for the car (to cut up).

6. Taylor answered this.

Last edited by Epstein; Jun 2, 2005 at 08:12 AM.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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do you have to replace all the power steering lines or just reservoir and the lines coming off that?
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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I'm having a hard time remembering where all the PS lines go, so here's the deal. Go find a dual-cam and pull every PS line off of the car. When you get the SR, it'll probably only come with the pump. The dual cam lines will bolt up to your single cam steering rack, and the SR pump. Pulling the bottom hard-line off of a dual-cam with the motor still in is a bitch.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 03:15 PM
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all ps lines. from the rack -> up
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Epstein
edit: didn't see that Taylor responded inside the quote box. Here's more info!



1. I have built a car around a 200k chassis. You have to replace everything! Tie rods, ball joints, bushings, shocks, brakes... anything that can be considered a wear item. Not to discourage you, but it's a lot of work and money.

2. The only things that will be hard to find are the dual-cam (91-94) power steering lines and reservoir. The radiator and heater hoses can be purchased anywhere. Some local shops know exactly which hoses fit best, since normal parts won't work. For AC, see #5.

3. If you physically have no harness, then you're going to need to buy one. They run about $300 new. If you're talking about converting the SR harness to work in your 89, then you can do it yourself, or have someone do it. Taylor has been "mondifying" harness for a few years and goes beyond simply splicing a few wires.

4. The hardest part is to get the motor to slide in. Sometimes they go right in. Sometimes you have to wrestle it with a couple 2x4's.

5. AC is simply connecting a few wires (in the main harness), and getting a few AC lines made. Lines should cost anywhere between $100 and $200. You'll be using the SR compressor, and you'll need the original lines for the car (to cut up).

6. Taylor answered this.
My car has nearly 200k miles on it and alot of things on it are shot .... the only thing on it that is in good working order are the brakes.... my struts/shocks are shot , rack and pinion , tie rods , ball joints e.t.c. To continue on with a project like this ... you are going to spend at the very least around 6k dollars total when it's all said and done ... (and that is cheaping out) I'am spending more then that, but i like my car .... i waited over a 14months just to recieve the title for my car, and i sold my much nicer civic so i can bring my s13 back into shape (and then some). If you are going to be doing everything yourself , don't rush into anything take your time . If you don't have all the money for the parts you want right away.... don't cheap out, just wait a bit and spend the extra money on the better parts. You may also want to consider buying a daily beater. I don't know about you but i don't feel comfortable driving around in such a huge investment everyday (considering all of the things that can happen to it on the road) , but i guess i just like my car a little too much.
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Old Jun 2, 2005 | 09:31 PM
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Yea I might be doing a swap and have about 160k on the chassis I was just gonna put some nice coilovers and call it a day. You guys think I would need to do more?
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Old Jun 3, 2005 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris G.
Yea I might be doing a swap and have about 160k on the chassis I was just gonna put some nice coilovers and call it a day. You guys think I would need to do more?
That depends on your car ... i've seen cars with 160k on them. In better condition then cars with 80k on them (my old z32 for one had 82k miles on it ... but it looked like it had over 200k miles racked up on it). Depends on how it was driven and if it was well taken care of or not... e.t.c. When you get it up on a lift and can see underneath it .... and get the enigne out you will be able to point out what is shot and needs to be replaced more clearly.
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