After my previous thread about my leaking windows, I decided to give Steve's suggestion a shot and try RTV-ing from the inside. I knew this was pretty much a band-aid...but if it worked, thats only $5 out of pocket for RTV.

Needless to say the RTV didn't work. Windows still leak as they did before. The main leak is at the seal on the top of the rear window where the roof is also starting to rust. It is also leaking from the quarter windows. So now I move to PHASE II...removing the windows, fix the rust, and re-sealing w/fresh silcone crap and new rear window moldings.

This being said, what is the safest/best way to remove the quarter windows and the rear window? I know I have to remove the vertical plastic trim piece between the door and the quarter window, and the plastic piece running from the rearview mirror back to the top of the quarter window. After that, I'm stumped. Do I dig in there with a razor blade to loosen the aging gasket material? Should the window pretty much just pop out?

I appreciate any insight you guys/girls can provide. I'd like to get this leak/rust situation fixed before the summer rains arrive.

 

Too late. It's raining as I type.

I just got done replacing rear hatch glass. Reading through the FSM, they're pretty much mounted the same way. Each window is attached all the way around with a 1/2" wide strip of urethane sealant. They are located over the window hole by 2 or more locating pegs that are bonded to the glass. The glass is also spacered away from the car with little rubber blocks. The urethane sealant is tough as hell. I managed to stab myself a few times and break about a dozen blades. It takes a hell of a lot of force to cut through that stuff! Around the leak you'll find that the sealant really hasn't deteriorated, it just separated from the glass. You'll want to reattach the window with 3M Window Weld, which is $10 at Advance.

My tips for removing windows.
- Have atleast 4 different types of knives handy.
- sawing through the sealant with picture wire works, but be careful of the body work.
- WD-40 will help the blade glide through the already cut parts. Its amazing how grippy it is when it's dry.
- I didn't try heating the sealant up, but it MAY help.
- Once you get sections completed, use screwdrivers to hold the glass away from the body.
- You're not going to break the glass. It's almost impossible. I thought it would be cool to break the old hatch glass out... Yeah, 16oz hammer and a center punch didn't work. A 1/2" 150ft-lb torque wrench with an overhead chopping motion, though....

 

That's great for the calibration of the torque wrench, I'm sure.