still got it and i got to fix it
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still got it and i got to fix it
ok I still have the problem with the stock tachometer not working, i have replaced the distributor, the ecu, the gauge cluster all the fuses and the relays under the hood and by the fuse box, i know it gets power cuz whent he cars off its at zero and when i turn it on it goes to 500rpms but its got no signal. i know the wire comes from #3 yellow red from the ecu, goes some where then is light blue into #12 to the cluster i cant find any thing, is my wiring diagram wrong or what? 
if any one has any other info please help me out.
if any one has any other info please help me out.
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i already tried switching out the cluster and there no yellow red to the cluster so i looked it up and it said that the yellow red goes into a plug and comes out being light blue
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does any one have the repair manual? i mean i got this thing off the internet but its not to good. I'v fallowed its instructions on how to fix it and still cant.. I need to know where the wires behind the dash go. because i know they dont go derectly to the ecu they go some where first. I really dont wana pay nissan $170 just to find out what it is because i know its wires. I really need ur guyses help
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if you can wait until I get home, I'll post the proper pdfs. I got tripped up in the beginning because you didn't say that it was for S14. S13 is yellow/red all the way. I did see the yellow/red to blue conversion in the S14 FSM. I'll check it out more indepth after work.
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kk man thanx because i also now that right around this thing the air bag wire has to b fucked up to cuz the air bags are fine and i can reset it but like if i hit a bump or w/e it'll come on so i think it shakes and w/e. i just know its some stupid pice of shit wire. i just cant find out which one and where.. and thanx for helpin me out man
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I'm having trouble with f-ing acrobat and pulling out individual pages. Here's the text version:
The tach signal originates at the ECU (F1) as yellow/red and goes to the plug that connects the engine to the chassis (F3). F3 is a large connector near the ECU. The wire turns into a light blue at F3 on the chassis side and continues to the one of the 4 cluster connectors.
So now you know where it goes. Now grab a multimeter and make sure that there is continuity between the ECU and cluster on the Y/R to LB wire. Also make sure that F3 and F1 are making good positive contact. If there is continuity, and you're getting power to your other (water temp, fuel, speedo) gauges, then your tach or the tach output from the ECU is dead.
The tach signal originates at the ECU (F1) as yellow/red and goes to the plug that connects the engine to the chassis (F3). F3 is a large connector near the ECU. The wire turns into a light blue at F3 on the chassis side and continues to the one of the 4 cluster connectors.
So now you know where it goes. Now grab a multimeter and make sure that there is continuity between the ECU and cluster on the Y/R to LB wire. Also make sure that F3 and F1 are making good positive contact. If there is continuity, and you're getting power to your other (water temp, fuel, speedo) gauges, then your tach or the tach output from the ECU is dead.
