Headgasket ?'s
I need to replace the headgasket on my KA24DE (95 240 SE) and wanted to get any pointers from those of you who have done the procedure.
I have the FSM and a few other supplemental documents.
When I purchased the car, I was told that the headgasket was starting to go (165K on the clock). I haven't done a compression check yet, but there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust manifold. Oil looks fair, not milky.
I already replaced the radiator/hoses/thermo as the rad wouldn't hold pressure and figured might as well do it all at once. Water pumps seems to be okay and is circulating the coolant as it should.
Anything to look out for/notice?
Also, any input on what brand of replacement gasket to use.
TIA.
I have the FSM and a few other supplemental documents.
When I purchased the car, I was told that the headgasket was starting to go (165K on the clock). I haven't done a compression check yet, but there is a little bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust manifold. Oil looks fair, not milky.
I already replaced the radiator/hoses/thermo as the rad wouldn't hold pressure and figured might as well do it all at once. Water pumps seems to be okay and is circulating the coolant as it should.
Anything to look out for/notice?
Also, any input on what brand of replacement gasket to use.
TIA.
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G00d luck
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G00d luck
Originally posted by steve
why i picked up my 95 engine for $100 a lot easyer then doing a headgasket
why i picked up my 95 engine for $100 a lot easyer then doing a headgasket
Oh, btw, if you're going to use a metal gasket, don't prep the surface with a scotchbrite pad
. YMMV, but a lot of people have sealing problems with metal gaskets until they take the head and block to a machine shop and have them put a very fine (20 ra or less) finish on it. Metal gasket+fine finish+copper spray=good sealing.
don't use any kind of solution when cleaning the deck of the block. Just warm soapy water works fine, and it wont get in the cylinder walls and destroy the surface. The pain in the ass is that you gotta take off the intake and exhaust mannifolds to do this. But if you're going to do a headgasket you should check for warpage of both the head and block with a GOOD straight edge and a feeler gauge, if its over .003" get it resurfaced. If you don't you'll end up with another blown hg and its an ass of a problem. before you take the head off, be sure that you clog the chain tensioner (in the block) with anything: a sock, a hose, block of wood with a string...Just to insure you keep the timing on the crank so you don't have to cold time it.
Oh and a stock hg unless you're goin the forced induction route is fine.
Oh and a stock hg unless you're goin the forced induction route is fine.
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