is it something i should have professionally done or i know its possible for me to do it and how would i go about bleeding the system? if its difficult ill just take it in....i think i have a few air pockets and there leading my troubles...thanks

jason

 

You should be able to do it yourself. DL or buy the FSM and have at it. I'm not sure how you would get airpockets in there unless your engine is boiling the coolant. Someone else please chime in and address that. All you do when you change your coolant is drain it and then fill it. I have the .pdf of the service manual if you need the intructions. Just PM me your e-mail address.

 

its in my sig...i just drove it and the needle started to rise but then came down slowly ..parked it with it still running need;e dropped back down to right in the middle...and the overflow bottle was filling quite fast and when i turned the car off u could hear a bubbling noise....could this also be fan clutch not coming on , water pump , or probally everyone of those....sorry for all the ?"s but its really pissing me off

jason

 

could possibly have a clogged radiator, or a bad thermostat. replace the t-stat first since the t-stat and gasket are like $7

 

the KA is a bitch to bleed. warm up engine then open up the bleed bolt on the water inlet where the top hose meets the engine and bleed until coolant comes out. keep an eye on the temp gauge. also turn on the heater to high to allow any trapped air in the heater core to be bled off. also squeeze the top hose. it took me a total of 6 or 7 times doing this to remove all air from the system.


just bleed, bleed, bleed.

 

Good Lord man......you and that damned cooling system of yours....lol.

Bleeding the system is not all that hard. Here is how I do it...and this isn't the easiest way, but it's damn efficient and I have never had a problem with doing it this way (and as folks have said before, bleeding the Ka is not at times, fun...at all).

I actually jack the car up and set it on jack stands.....about at a 45 degree angle. The reason for this is air rises, so the higher the angle of the car the easier it is for any bubbles trapped in the back of the motor, to come forward and expel. Leave the raditor cap off so as to be able to constantly fill it....you put it on, you'll pressurize the system....God forbid you have to take it off again to poor my water in....you can't...unless you want some tasty third degree burns.

Now crank your heat inside the car all the way up so as to let the coolant thru the heater core and its respective passages. Start the car....let it run while checking to see when the lower rad hose begins to get hot...this means your thermo is working (if it never does, guess what...bad thermo). Now while warming up I unscrew the bleeder screw found on the intake manifold (I'll assume you know where that is)...don't take it out by any means...just unscrew it till you see a couple of threads. This is where I begin to actually shake the motor back and forth.....and I mean pretty damned hard too....this helps TONS in getting any stubborn air pockets that still may be in there. Do this along with constantly squeezing the upper, lower and the heater hoses in the back.....together this should get every ounce of air (well close to anyways) out of the car....done....

Shut her off, lower it back down, and start her up again and make sure the coolant is flowing at the mouth of the raditor....if so, you should be good to go. Put the cap back on and take her for a spin.

As for any other possible things to check as you mentioned in your above post....

1. Fan clutch: You should be able to feel some resistance when spinning the counterclockwise.....that and if it is bad, the car, when revved, will sound like a God damned hellicopter....not hard to identify.

2. Water pump: The pump has what is called a "weep hole"....it's on the underside of the pump....if you see coolant leaking from it, then that means the seals are gone....and needs replacement.

I really hope this helps man....I know what a pain in the arse the cooling system can be on our cars and totally sympathize with ya.....let me know if ya need anything else.

...Oh.....when you can...get a damned water temp gauge. I'm not saying your not having issues with the cooling, but a tried and true gauge (albeit from Autometer) makes you soooo much more comfortable when driving...especially in this shity Florida heat.

-Bill

 

yep. but i dont think it should be going into the overflow like that.

 

KA's are retarded. some of them in s13's bleed out perfectly, others will have air for at least 10 thermostat cycles...

i can't explain it.

amake sure that your upper radiator hose is completely not warped or bent wierd in any strange way.. that's important. Try jacking up the front of the car.

 

yeah, i forgot to mention using jack stands.... and yes some bleed in few cycles, some take longer...

 

alright guys thanks....i will definately trythat...yes i do know where the bleeder screw is...will try it out later on