don't bother buying real exhaust for $500 if you're just goin to get an SR in a few months, just go to rainbow muffler, or another muffler shop and get custom exhaust for like $200...any diameter piping you want.

 

i already have intake and exhaust..its 2.25 custom piping cat back..with a gutted cat

 

Umm. What the fuck?? Exhausts are NOT engine dependant (unless you are going CA.. but he's not). They are chassis dependant. All cat-back exhausts I've seen bolt up to back of the cat in s13, and fake cat on s14. A sr20det downpipe bolts to the front of the cat/fake cat.
Therefore, "real" exhaust is a good power increase on a KA, and an extreme power increase on the turbocharged SR. I don't know why you'd tell him to waste $200 on something that has no R&D, no mandrel bends, and a mullet muffler as opposed to a highly tested and tuned "real" exhaust system. That will work for both KA and SR.
-Jeff

 

Whatever, if he got 3" full back no cats he could just hook the DP right up to that when he gets an SR. why would u waste fucking $300 on something that has a name brand? buy an N1 muffler and get custom piping, your car will breath better and just for jeff, look pretty. (fuck mandrel bends it doesn't matter when you don't have any sharp bends in your system.)

 

Purchase an ASP crank pulley ($110) - free up drivetrain rotational mass = 7-8 rwhp and 2-3 mpg improvement.

Jesse

 

Hey 240Varg dont you own a purple 240 that be going to the ST meet once in awhile?

 

i would do a simple intake, e-fans, emission deletion and some random weight reduction. less weight= faster car which= feels like more power. my 165,000 mile KA just put down 151rwhp and 148tq with basically intake,header, exhaust,e-fans,no emissions, and some timing. not great but i still have some other issues to take care of.

 

yea thats me

 

Man you should just save up for an SR if ya know what good for ya

 

An SR downpipe and all pre-fabbed exhaust systems are 12" apart. Just enough room for that cat/fake cat.

Mufflers can't make power. The most efficient mufflers can only employ the same scavenging effect as a header, to help slightly overcome the loss of efficiency introduced into the system as back pressure. Looks isn't a debate here. I gave insight as to how difficult making power in a small motor is. You're the guy that attempts to belittle me, because I attempted to correct the information of implying KA and SR use different exhausts, and a muffler shop setup roxorz.


Ask Secret Services why they use 1 piece, mandrel bent piping for everything. From SR downpipes to the 8" intake pipe. Even though the largest bend is about 30*.

Mandrel bending does make a difference. On the exhaust side hot gases molecules maintain their enegy levels until they escape out the tail pipe (enthalpy). The normal OEM wrinkle bends (and crush bends to a slightly lesser extent) reduce the exhaust gas flow(velocity) and energy (molecular) as they move around the bent through your exhaust plimbing. What this eventually means is a "bottle neck" effect in your system. Mandrel bending also reduces the impact of gas flow as it moves throught the system and maintains the scavaging effect. There is a reason SS doesn't use a crush bender, or crush bent piping. There is a reason people try not to make unnecessary welds. This is because physics (fluid dynamics) works. Slight variations in exhaust flow, slight areas of turbulence, bottlenecks, ect. will cause disruptions in flow, actually making you lose power.

If you still aren't convinced, find someone with an s14 and custom muffler-shop exhaust. I'll go to SS, pay for the dyno, and run with my N1 dual, and then another run with the shop exhaust. I'll also bet $50 that there will be a 10-15hp difference.

Anyway, I'm not some arrogant dumbass. I'm an arrogant, knowledgeable person that will help just about anyone. Don't be a tool over 1 correction.
-Jeff