ok... so i did not have time to get lines made untill recently... and so now everything is filled up good to go... the only thing is i dont have the plug off the clip that connects to the sr compressor... so i took the plug off the compressor and changed it with the ka compressor... and evrything hooks up fine and dandy... so now here is the problem... i turn on the car and it idles at like 500, the a\c works for like 20 seconds and then it just starts to blow the hot florida air into the car... after a while my idle comes back up to normal... when iam cruising with the a\c off, i can feel COLD air being slowly let into the car... if i turn on the actual a\c it just blows HOT outside air... any thoughts?

 

compressor shot or freon low? You have to go by temperature and pressure charts when calculating. Not sure about idle. Just figured I'd throw something that it could be.

 

Did you vac the system, install a new dryer, make sure the compressor had oil, and charge it properly using guages? If not all of the above could be your problem. Let me know I am pretty good with A/C.

Launch

 

Enough OIL ? Pressure test system for leaks with a dye (usually cost 20 bucks more but its peace of mind) and repressure test to see if freeon is low or overfilled.........or hopefully normal....

RINKU

 

bret,

I did all this at ranjo's...midas spec a\c charger $ evac etc etc ... i had my line made at hose n hydraulics like 5 mins from our house... yes i oiled up the compressor, we filled up compressor according to guages... its strange... you turn on the car and idle is way low even if my a\c is not on... during this time if i choose to turn on the a\c it works... 20 seconds later it just blow regular air in... turn off a\c and idle still stays low and then 2 mins of driving it idle fine again...

what i dont understand is why it feels like power is being taken away even if my a\c is not on...

btw ranjo mentioned that this problem occurs with alot of his customer's cars also... he mentioned he had to put a toggle switch on that plug that connects to the compressor... and this actually fixed their problem... idk how but iam going to test this out see how it works...

 

Did you have A/C on it before? My ghetto rigged KA on SR a/c did alright until it started shredding belts...nothing like what you described though.

 

yeah, when i had ka a\c was perfectly fine..

 

Sounds like Ranjo needs to quit doing A/C work. No bashing but if this is a common problem with the cars coming out of that shop one would start to worry. BTW did you answer all of the questions above with a yes. If so I will be happy to look at your car and find the problem.

Launch

 

I studied up throughly on this subject when my brother was having idle dipping problems in his SR+AC.

The blue/green wire that triggers the AC compressor is driven by a relay in the driver's side relay box. This wire also comes around to the "battery area wires", through F10 (or F up to the IACV-FICD. The IACV-FICD is just a valve that lets more air through to compensate for the AC being on. Make sure that the blue/green is hooked up.

Also running through the battery area connectors is green/yellow. Check that, too.

If your AC light is cutting out on the controller, it's most likely the dual pressure switch. It's located on the dryer.

Make sure that your idle is set correctly. Disconnect the 4-wire connector between the 3rd and 4th intake runner (IACV-AAC and IACV-FICD). Set idle screw to +/-800 rpm. Plug connector back in. That was my brother's problem. His base idle was set to 500 rpm, and the IACV-AAC couldn't compensate enough.

We also had a problem blowing relays. If your AC is still coming on, it shouldn't be a problem, though.

That should just about cover it. That is, unless you have a bad compressor.

You're not running an electric fan switch off of the compressor wire, are you?

 

Damn, all of that just makes me want to give up on my A/C entirely...not like it functions now.