RB20det VS RB25DET
I borrowed this info off of another website and was wondering what where the pro's and con's of these two motors OTHER than the year of the motors.
Alrighty, here's the lowdown on this swap:
$3250 RB25DET Clip
$400 - New Driveline
$150 - Parts, ie: fluids, filters, wires, crimps, etc...
--------
$3800 = 250 RWHP
$2250 RB20DET Clip
$0 - Uses KA driveline
$150 - Parts, ie: fluids, filters, wires, crimps, etc...
--------
$2400 = 205-210 RWHP
That's it guys. That's all the cost behind both swaps.
Of course Labor isnt included or wiring, and the clip prices I've found have been cheaper and few more expensive. What Im trying to ask is, I know the SR is the more typical platform to start with because of power, availabilty, support, etc...but if the $$$ wasnt an issue to start(within reason), which motor would be recommended to drop into the S14 chassis. I've done some searching on the RB25 using the R33 crossmember for a bolt in swap, but are still finding different threads about using custom motor mounts from unstable/mkcinney/phase2 and tranny mounts. I have also read that the aftermarket is starting to grow with more companies picking up parts for a growing customer base, so that really isnt an issue. It comes down to 4 cyl vs 6cly an overall hp for mainly track use/drag. Any opinions, links, suggetions(Taylor said SR all the way, but Im hoping to get somemore input, no offense Taylor-You are the Man
). Thanks in advance. And I know about SS 530+whp SR, and the power they can make...so please keep it tech related if possible...can someone make 530whp with a RB20/25 for the same price or cheaper...and still have room to go?
Alrighty, here's the lowdown on this swap:
$3250 RB25DET Clip
$400 - New Driveline
$150 - Parts, ie: fluids, filters, wires, crimps, etc...
--------
$3800 = 250 RWHP
$2250 RB20DET Clip
$0 - Uses KA driveline
$150 - Parts, ie: fluids, filters, wires, crimps, etc...
--------
$2400 = 205-210 RWHP
That's it guys. That's all the cost behind both swaps.
Of course Labor isnt included or wiring, and the clip prices I've found have been cheaper and few more expensive. What Im trying to ask is, I know the SR is the more typical platform to start with because of power, availabilty, support, etc...but if the $$$ wasnt an issue to start(within reason), which motor would be recommended to drop into the S14 chassis. I've done some searching on the RB25 using the R33 crossmember for a bolt in swap, but are still finding different threads about using custom motor mounts from unstable/mkcinney/phase2 and tranny mounts. I have also read that the aftermarket is starting to grow with more companies picking up parts for a growing customer base, so that really isnt an issue. It comes down to 4 cyl vs 6cly an overall hp for mainly track use/drag. Any opinions, links, suggetions(Taylor said SR all the way, but Im hoping to get somemore input, no offense Taylor-You are the Man
). Thanks in advance. And I know about SS 530+whp SR, and the power they can make...so please keep it tech related if possible...can someone make 530whp with a RB20/25 for the same price or cheaper...and still have room to go?
try 240sx.org, its been discussed to death. i was in the same dilema as you a few months back. what do u mean by new driveline for the rb25det? new driveshaft? i believe u can use the rb25 one if it comes with the clip, same for the rb20. It pretty much comes down to if you want to be different, if you want 530 whp with room might as well go rb26dett, forget the rb20 at least.
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94 firechicken - sold
99 GST looks are decieving - sold
92 b16a cx - vtec - nah - sold
89 240 coupe - sold
97 m3 - perfect
94 firechicken - sold
99 GST looks are decieving - sold
92 b16a cx - vtec - nah - sold
89 240 coupe - sold
97 m3 - perfect
the answer is yes, but the car becomes so nose heavy it's no longer a 240sx. it's no longer an s chassis that is amazingly nimble.
its now a supra.
so yes, if you want a supra, go buy a supra! you can make a 500hp 240sx, but it will be with an rb and heavier than a 500hp sr powered 240sx. what happens then? you get beaten, of course.
if money isnt an issue, whatever engine has the most money into it will go the fastest. there are 1000+hp SR cars in japan.
rbs are not as un breakable as you may think.
its now a supra.
so yes, if you want a supra, go buy a supra! you can make a 500hp 240sx, but it will be with an rb and heavier than a 500hp sr powered 240sx. what happens then? you get beaten, of course.
if money isnt an issue, whatever engine has the most money into it will go the fastest. there are 1000+hp SR cars in japan.
rbs are not as un breakable as you may think.
having an RB is only for 1 reason...
to say you have a skyline motor..
Other than that its pretty pointless...
BUT if you really want to say that then by all means go for it..
to say you have a skyline motor..
Other than that its pretty pointless...
BUT if you really want to say that then by all means go for it..
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I dont feel like a sig today.
I dont feel like a sig today.
Its not to say I have a skyline motor or anything to that effect...and money is always an issue...I mean I've read so many posts stating that you can purchase a rb20/25 clip for 300-1000 less than an sr clip, and have more hp/tq and displacment to play with. But on the same note, I know it takes more fabrication to install one...but I came across a site where a noob did the install himself and didnt really have any problems...so labor isnt a huge factor when it comes to price. RB26dett isnt an option for me...too much $$$...but I know it takes alot more to get a SR into the 500whp range vs a RB mainly because displacment, etc. It is different which isnt bad by any reason, but not a primary reason to swap. The pricing for SR motors are streadily increasing as well. I wouldnt mind having a SR powered 240, but wanted to know what were the biggest con's from our local installer/owners who have knowledge/experience from doing the swap.
As far as being as heavy as a supra, I say this article posted somewhere else, and I dont know the truth behind it but the weight doesnt have too much of a factor....which really wouldnt concern me either way. I cant find the article at the moment, but I remember his weight changing to 52/48 with the RB25 installed.
As far as being as heavy as a supra, I say this article posted somewhere else, and I dont know the truth behind it but the weight doesnt have too much of a factor....which really wouldnt concern me either way. I cant find the article at the moment, but I remember his weight changing to 52/48 with the RB25 installed.
Also, I never said the motors are unbreakable...I'm new to the SR's and RB's...I've just read that the RB block are made out of Iron or something to that effect and that they can handle 400-500whp on stock internals...and yes, I know Scotts SR with stock internals handled 500+whp, but how many of them can do that...I sure dont know and I cant find an answer yet. I do know that the majority of people who have swapped in a RB25det are running low 12's on stock boost...which isnt too shabby...so Im trying to pick and choose $$ vs reliablity/daily driving...and if I had 20-40g, I would be all over a Supra like white on rice.
hahaha no way possible.
especially if you get the big trans.
rbs are like 150-200 lbs heavier than a ka
srs are like 200 lbs lighter than a ka
the atom smasher tranny is like 100 lbs heavier than a ka / sr tranny
and when you get a clip for less than an sr clip, let mek now. most of the rb clips are toilets anyways.
oh and then.
you have to buy 6 injectors hahaa. and what are you gonna do for managmenet? ?
those rb's arent as stout as you think,, you need to replace the crank in an rb26 for a double coutnerweighted one even, dont think the 2.0 or 2.5 is better.
especially if you get the big trans.
rbs are like 150-200 lbs heavier than a ka
srs are like 200 lbs lighter than a ka
the atom smasher tranny is like 100 lbs heavier than a ka / sr tranny
and when you get a clip for less than an sr clip, let mek now. most of the rb clips are toilets anyways.
oh and then.
you have to buy 6 injectors hahaa. and what are you gonna do for managmenet? ?
those rb's arent as stout as you think,, you need to replace the crank in an rb26 for a double coutnerweighted one even, dont think the 2.0 or 2.5 is better.
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Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
Advocate for the People's Republic of Awesome
rest in peace tim.
Originally posted by Mattback
hahaha no way possible.
especially if you get the big trans.
rbs are like 150-200 lbs heavier than a ka
srs are like 200 lbs lighter than a ka
the atom smasher tranny is like 100 lbs heavier than a ka / sr tranny
and when you get a clip for less than an sr clip, let mek now. most of the rb clips are toilets anyways.
oh and then.
you have to buy 6 injectors hahaa. and what are you gonna do for managmenet? ?
those rb's arent as stout as you think,, you need to replace the crank in an rb26 for a double coutnerweighted one even, dont think the 2.0 or 2.5 is better.
hahaha no way possible.
especially if you get the big trans.
rbs are like 150-200 lbs heavier than a ka
srs are like 200 lbs lighter than a ka
the atom smasher tranny is like 100 lbs heavier than a ka / sr tranny
and when you get a clip for less than an sr clip, let mek now. most of the rb clips are toilets anyways.
oh and then.
you have to buy 6 injectors hahaa. and what are you gonna do for managmenet? ?
those rb's arent as stout as you think,, you need to replace the crank in an rb26 for a double coutnerweighted one even, dont think the 2.0 or 2.5 is better.
If were talking about RB25clips, I've found some from reputale(sp)companys ranging from $3000+ plus shipping. Venus sells them for a little bit cheaper, depending on the demand...but thats neither here nor there. 6 Injectors...yeah that sucks...managment...you mean like a rom tune or an aftermarket piggy back system type or haltech...Im not sure...there's got to be someone out there who can tune a RB motor
. I would never go for a RB26, but RB25 doesnt sound too bad, considering they come from 95+ chassis....but Im still looking for opinions and I apprecaite yours.
my input is this.
dump the RB idea. the car drives like shit, sits liek shit (nose heavy) and there is no service here for them. water pump? months wait time.
dont be a pioneer. never forge the river and for god sakes, dotn let thekids die of cholera.
go SR. its cheaper in the liong run
best results? twice again
dump the RB idea. the car drives like shit, sits liek shit (nose heavy) and there is no service here for them. water pump? months wait time.
dont be a pioneer. never forge the river and for god sakes, dotn let thekids die of cholera.
go SR. its cheaper in the liong run
best results? twice again
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RIP Tim. i miss you, buddy
RIP Tim. i miss you, buddy
Don't wanna start anything, But why did someone do an sr swap? Cause they wanted to, thought it was a good idea, and yet they could not get any parts at that time for it. I hope, No one ever does Rb swaps cause they're pointless,<Atleast that's what your saying> I do not agree, There is a reason people are doing this swap. Maybe cause they dont drift, yet want stylish cuves of the 240 with tons of power. Or they don't follow the heard<cows into slaughter house>
I wanna know something? If the handling of the car is solely based on weight distibution, then if you added 100 pounds to one point of the car. It wouldn't handle right, but in the same theory your saying as long as you add another 100 pounds to another point in the vehicle, such as in the back. Maybe sound system (battery relocation takes some of the weight from front and puts it in the rear) Then as long as you have the same balanced weight. Even though it would be more weight. With the correct suspension upgrades, the weight is counter acted in speed, by the power<torque (happens with more displacement)> To create the good ole 240 with an rb25det and great handling.
Note < You do not necessarily need to add substantial weight to the rear. As long as you can lighten things up front and move things from front to rear. IE. use carbon fiber hood and taking 10 pound battery from front and putting in the rear.< Theory if 100 pounds was put on top of your engine,Then you would need to put 100 pounds in the trunk, Unless you removed a 10 pound item such as battery, now you only need 90 in the trunk. But you can't start the car without the battery. So you put it in the trunk, now you only need 80. If you lighten it 5 pounds with a carbon fiber hood then thats 5 pounds less you need to add to the rear.>
I understand most people buy a 240 for drifting. Then there's people who like the looks of them. If your saying the added weight will kill the looks <cause it "sits liek shit" > I'm sure you can get higher spring rates for 240's (Even if its custom) Hey if your doing an engine swap, Things have to be done to accomodate the changes.
I personally would want to do one for daily driving and drag racing. I won't drift or autocross, none of the sort. I only need to handle well on those pesky interstate on/off ramps, and through those trecherous intersections.<Joking> But you should see I don't need alot of turning abilities.
And for those who desire a mainly drift car, I can see where weight savings with the smaller lighter engine (sr20det) is better.
I prefer the s14 chasis The refinement/ creature comforts. And I especially wanna beable to cruise down to the strip playing my music. And yet still have the power to run mid 11's.
I wanna know something? If the handling of the car is solely based on weight distibution, then if you added 100 pounds to one point of the car. It wouldn't handle right, but in the same theory your saying as long as you add another 100 pounds to another point in the vehicle, such as in the back. Maybe sound system (battery relocation takes some of the weight from front and puts it in the rear) Then as long as you have the same balanced weight. Even though it would be more weight. With the correct suspension upgrades, the weight is counter acted in speed, by the power<torque (happens with more displacement)> To create the good ole 240 with an rb25det and great handling.
Note < You do not necessarily need to add substantial weight to the rear. As long as you can lighten things up front and move things from front to rear. IE. use carbon fiber hood and taking 10 pound battery from front and putting in the rear.< Theory if 100 pounds was put on top of your engine,Then you would need to put 100 pounds in the trunk, Unless you removed a 10 pound item such as battery, now you only need 90 in the trunk. But you can't start the car without the battery. So you put it in the trunk, now you only need 80. If you lighten it 5 pounds with a carbon fiber hood then thats 5 pounds less you need to add to the rear.>
I understand most people buy a 240 for drifting. Then there's people who like the looks of them. If your saying the added weight will kill the looks <cause it "sits liek shit" > I'm sure you can get higher spring rates for 240's (Even if its custom) Hey if your doing an engine swap, Things have to be done to accomodate the changes.
I personally would want to do one for daily driving and drag racing. I won't drift or autocross, none of the sort. I only need to handle well on those pesky interstate on/off ramps, and through those trecherous intersections.<Joking> But you should see I don't need alot of turning abilities.
And for those who desire a mainly drift car, I can see where weight savings with the smaller lighter engine (sr20det) is better.
I prefer the s14 chasis The refinement/ creature comforts. And I especially wanna beable to cruise down to the strip playing my music. And yet still have the power to run mid 11's.



