that IS a fake turbo...greaser is a ricer!!! I've seen his electronic BOV simulator....he painted it to look like standalone engine mangement!!

 

i lost potential power with a long runner equal length manifold.

so i'm trying a short runner manifold that keeps the heat to feed the turbine. but doing this short runner i wanted cold air and some other eases of working on the setup.

but mainly it was for the shortest runners possible while still employing some sort of nice collector. this is the ONLY way i could do it. trust me.

 

thats just great

 

you crazy......hope u make something to protect that thing from bugs............good luck..

 

further explanation for those that can understand. When i took the last setup apart, there was no...NO signs of use on the turbine. no carbon, no signs of heat, NOTHING on the turbine. it looked brand fucking new. ALSO the collector had NO signs of use. But near the head and the first couple of bends, all types of signs of use. the downpipe still looked brand new, sans some rusting.

My theory, i was losing exhaust heat like a mofo. that turbine shoulda been white or shown signs of use. NOW....if i had a smaller turbine the car woulda made power. because it didnt need all the heat to turn a T3 turbine. but i'm using a 69 trim T4 turbine in a .58 housing. so it needs the airflow as well as the heat to turn that GT40 compressor into the high airflow region of the map. right now i think its spinning the compressor enough to make boost, but its not forcing the airflow. meaning its on the left side of the map where airflow is low. the boost is there, but not airflow. if i can get turbine shaft speed up another 20,000rpm i have shitloads more air and shitloads more power. but the only way i can do that is to get heat to the turbine. the only way i can do that is to have the shortest runners possible with the least amount of bends with the least amount of chassis modifications.

Another reason i came to this idea was another buddies race car. his new turbo came in and it wouldnt let the motor make more than 550fwhp. NO MATTER what boost limit he was at. at the end of the night we were nearly at 40psi but making 550hp then the hp curve fell on its face. finally we realized that the compressor nut was loose and the compressor was backpeddling under higher airflow. IF that compressor was able to spin faster it woulda made more power, but it could only spin enough to make the boost pressure. he put a new turbo on it, and made nearly 650 hp on the first pass.

I think with this new manifold its gonna give this big ass turbine the heat it needs to force that compressor to a higher RPM and further right region of the compressor map, therefore making more power.

or i could be wrong AGAIN and make 400hp @17psi. enthalpy is running a smaller turbine than me and i think thats why he isnt having issues with his fat ass full race manifold, also the fact that its stainless further helping his heat retention properties.

but i have no schooling to quantify this.....only experiences and gut feelings. tell me if you think i'm wrong.

 

well one of the things i see derek is this


an engine requiring a certain pressure ratio at a certain rpm is going to flow a certain amount regardless.. but..

if the volumetric efficiency somehow can go through the roof this will increase the flow and shift it farther to the right.. hrm.. more heat ??

 

i used to think that too. but then gave up on all of it in the last round of calculations.

i'm to the "trial and error" phase now. i made good power with a log manifold, lost power with a nice long runner manifold. so now try a short runner manifold.

 

shouldnt you be worried about sucking birds and other small miscelaneous animals into your turbo?

 

in the 7 years i've been racing, i have yet to see a bird come that close to me while i'm racing down the 1/4 mile strip.

so no i wont be worrying about sucking up birds.

 

Derek,

You are partially correct and partially incorrect.


1)Driving Mrs. Compressor

the compressor is the boss of the system, not the turbine. if you turn the compressor 20k RPM faster you are not going to get more flow...you are going to get more boost!! unless you DRASTICALLY change the flow capability of the engine. the precision TE site is down right now, so i cant say for sure, but if you maintain the the same flow level and increase shaft speed 20krpm you will either be in the surge region, or you will be pushing 15 psi more (30 psi total) boost!!. now if you keep boost the same and turn the compressor 20krpm more you will be out near 55 lb/min @ PR 2.0. but the motor cant physically flow 55 lb/min @ 15 psi....it's just not possible!! that would be a VE of like 1.50!!

2)heat and turbine power and work.

i ran some calcs a while back and at PR 2.0 and 40 lb/min the 82mm 56 trim required damn near 22Hp (thats right 22 Horsepower) to compress that flow of air at 75% efficiency. if you are going to drastically increase the flow of the compressor you are going to drastically increase the work done by the turbine. work is extracted by a change in temp or a change in pressure. the riddle is this tho...the turbine can not extract HEAT energy from the exhaust stream without extracting Pressure energy from the exhaust stream they are linked to gether. you actually get the change in temperature FROM the change in pressure...ever spray compressed air? it's always cold, you are getting work out of your pressure control orifice (air sprayer) thus the air comes out colder. what you are proposing is like saying that an air conditioning system would work without a Thermal Expansion Valve....it's just not possible. temp and pressure are related on the turbine side!! so even though your goal to get the PRE turbine temps as high as possible is a good goal, i dont see it as getting you and real gains, because your POST turbine temps will just be higher. the change in pressure across the turbine will have to be the same.

3) smaller turbine section of yours truly.

if we can now agree that the compressor is the boss of the systemthen there a few other things to discuss. if you are looking to achieve 400 @ 15 psi than that is a fixed RPM and flow on the compressor wheel...no way around that. so both our turbines have to to also turn the same speed...with a BIGGER wheel you need to flow MORE ehxuast gas through the turbine to get the pressure drop through a more OPEN orifice that is your turbine exducer to achieve the same turbien shaft RPM.

I like that you are thinking out of the box....but i'm not sure you are goign to see the results you expect...for the reasons you have listed!

as for your friends honda..the reason you picked up SO much HP was back pressure. the turbien was having to spin at probably 1.5 times the shaft RPM needed to spin a freewheeling compressor. this means more work dotn by the turbine and more Exhaust gas restriction...no flow was being achieved becasue you couldnt get any more air thought the turbine, because you probably had to close th WG down so much mroe to get the boost!!

as usual keep us updated when you go to the dyno!!