Do I screw these in with just my fingers as tight as I can get them or put an allen wrench on them and get them as tight as I can with my hand? Stupid, I know

They say to screw them in "hand tight" only, but then why does it have an allen key on the head? I can get them pretty damn tight using just the allen wrench and my hand.

Im unsure because I have read on tuners that some people screw the studs in all the way finger tight, and then back them out 1/4 turn. That made no sense to me though.

 

Screw them into the block only finger tight. Install head, install washers onto the stud, put the nuts on the studs, tighten them to the specs in the manual. I believe it's something like 90 with assembly lube and 120 with oil. Also if they are new you might need to go through a tightening process with them. tighten to X pounds then loosen, then to tighter to X pounds again then loosen. im not sure what X is and the number of times required but there is a process to it. have the manual? if the studs are used then this process is not required.

 

Thanks, they are new. With the tighening process I didnt know you were suppose to go X pounds and then loosen. I always went in three stages, Id tighten all to 30, then go back and raise them to 60, and then finish in 90.

My coil plug is done also, I can just pull it on and off with ease, every now and then itll pop off and my car wont start. Thanks for the info on the studs, Im gonna head out now to see what my boost hits in this cold air because Im bored.

 

the process is to get the studs to stretch in increments.



Yea we both need to get to the junk yard, been so busy lately it's hard for me to do.

 

I thought the whole point of ARP's was so they wouldnt stretch Im game for the junkyard on Monday, then Im gone for like 3 weeks. If you cant do it then no biggie, I know you actually have a job and work. LMK, I know that one yard has some non-turbo 4g63's with plenty of plugs and sensors.

 

What that means is once the load is taken off the stud it will rebound back to it's original size, this is what gives ARP's there clamping force, the stud is actually pulling the two parts together instead of just the initial force of the tightening. OEM bolts will stretch and not rebount back to their original size.

 

I know you arent suppose to reuse the stock head bolts, but Ive taken them on and off at least 5 times and reused them on my old block. Had them torqued as much as 100lbs by the end. Never leaked. That was also with only 15psi. They were loyal though.