Ok I dont know alot so bear with me.. I have rc 550s on my 97 gst. I was told that when they were put in the spark plug wires had to be upgraded and were by the previous owner. Well my far left one busted in 4 peices and idk what to buy. They say bosch premium something layer 7mm. now here is what is weird. I started it to see how it ran on 3cyl for curiosity reasons and shut it off quick obviously it ran ruff. However the pieces that broke apart were the rubber boot the aluminum or w.e piece that connects onto the top of the plug, the wire, & the hard plastic piece broke off from the boot .. the wire was actually just hanging inside rubber boot and I coul just pull it out if I wanted to. However I pieced it all back together kinda just stuff the wire down some didnt try to connect it because Idk how to idk how it actually connects and plut it all on and the car runs smooth? wtf? thats my other question. Im kinda wondering how a spark plug wire and shit works now if someone can kinda explain but also if someone can sell me one wire i need for temporary or if someone can point me in the right direction to replace them all because I guess they only come in sets.

 

ha nvm on where to get them they were $50 I got em for free replacement even tho i didnt buy em lol im happy nice having friends at parts stores.

 

I didnt read your whole post, but a small piece of advice i could throw in is make sure you get non projected spark plugs.

The projected style tipped spark plugs are more prone to detonation.
Ive never thoguht to run any of that iridum crap on a turbo engine nor would I try it. I just stick to NGKs and I run the BR7ES... Therefore they are non projected and one range colder than stock. If you were to get the BRP7ES the would be projected hence the P.
If running say 20+ psi the gap that works best for me is between .028 and .031, you generally want to get the largest gap you can before the car starts missing in higher rpm and boost pressures.

 

ok everyone has told me to buy bpr6es or bpr7es so thats news to me. Im running like 20psi so your saying run br7es with a .028 to .031 gap.

 

Yes definitly get non projected ( BR7ES vs BRP7ES)
Id always get 2 or 3 random counts of knock in the higher gears whenever I did a log and when I installed them there was no more knock .

Now dont go thinking this will allow you to turn up boost, or add any more timing, it just makes your pulls more consistent. The projected tip heats up and since it protrudes out so I guess it acts as like a glow plug when its hot enough. Dont completely take my word for it, do some research yourself if you want to get a more technically correct answer for why, but I do know you should run non projected.

You will have to find what gap works best for your motor yourself, but it will likely still be within the range that I suggested.