so im trying to set up a cold air intake on my 1g eclipse. and i disconnect everything to find this big ass computer thing inside the canester that holds the original filter any ideas how to how to make it fit or somthing. or will i be stuck building a custom box for this thing????

 

Uhh, that's your MAF. You need that. You'll need to buy a piping kit that can adapt the factory MAF. I'm assuming you have a NT, which would rule out the need for a GM MAFT, so you're pretty much stuck, uless you can weld. If so, i'd say make an aluminum adaptor plate, or just buy a kit such as the k&n, which gives you an open filter element that covers the MAF, From there, you'l just need an appropriatly sized coupler, and you shouyld be fine.

 

thanks for the info

 

Your cars turbo right?
I did it to my 1g using 4x3.5 90* bend pvc pipe from home depo racing.
It was like 7 bucks... Then i cut out the thin metal the chasis that sits right under were your intake filter sits.

I have a 2g mass, so i custom made the pvc pipe fit snug with the 4.5 2g mass adaptor, and then connected the filter to the other end of the pvc pipe and voila it dropped the filter were the stock side mount would go.

I logged IAT's always within 10 degs ambient, and never getting much hotter than whatever ambient is. And rather, the faster you go the cooler the temps seemed to get reguardless current temp.
Average of about 30-40 deg temp drop from leaving filter in the engine bay especially during hot days when your idling a lot.

On a cold night, due to more air being shoved into the compressor due to it being denser, this caused my turbo to give 2 more psi throughout the power band without me even touching the boost controller.

 

Not trying to pick a fight, call you out, or just plain be a dick, but I don't believe this is even possible unless your wastegate is broken. I mean, faster spool is a given, but spontaneouly gaining boost doesn't seem right.

 

Well for one i have a stock style internal waste gate on a evo316g .
Boost control isnt too great to begin with.
On an external w.g. setup that has far better boost control then yea this will be impossible.

Putting denser air into the compressor means it squeezing more air in to the intake track. The turbo will still dramatically heat up this air...
Now you have more air in the intake track, heat it up and it expands again which becomes more Pressure. Pressure being what we consider boost.
Now that might not be technically correct but not too far off.

To simplify it for you,
Im sure several of you guys with dsms still on internal waste gate ( unported) have "boost creeped" on particularly cold nights, especially in the higher gears...
So think about it..
What is different than a cold air intake causing the same effect?
Pre compressor has nothing to do with intercooling or waste gate or none of that when simple temp changes affect boost output. ( Were still talking internal wastegate here.)
Colder air entering the compressor is still just that.

Now, like i said, i installed the cold air intake. It was already a cool night to begin with. I changed nothing under the hood but the cold air intake.
On a 3rd gear pull, boost rose to 23 psi from 21..
It had never creeped/spiked etc to that psi before unless iturned up the boost.
I had to go under the hood and turn it back down.

If my explainantion doesnt make sense to you then you explain what happened, and dont say nothing like " I hit my mbc by mistake when i was installing the CAI and made it increase."

 

In theory the MBC should keep the pressure exactly the same no matter what else is going on because it should take the same amount of pressure to push back the spring and break the ball bearing's seal. In practice with a cheap MBC and a flaky internal wastegate running more than 2x stock boost all sorts of weird shit happens that really shouldn't happen.

Explain how Black_Bullet turned up the boost from 21 to 23 at peak and had his boost at 7k go from 17 to 19. It doesn't make any sense at all until you realize that MBCs and internal wastegates never work exactly like they're supposed to in theory.

 

Thats true Jordan. Its pretty inconsistent, and its by far not the best boost controller i could have. But the boost increase from the CAI still showed me that i was getting more air into the turbo.
Honestly you could even hear it.

I think its a great mod as long as you properly defend it from water.

 

.....its not turbo yet i just bought the car a few days ago and the stock air system blows. eventualy within the next few months im going to be doing an engine swap and a 5speed conversion soon idk maybe just an engine swap and a new tranny. which brings me to my next question where can i find a decent engine for this car for under a few grand.

 

If its a 4g63 you can convert it from N/T to GST.
Ive done that swap before, its not so hard to do because i hardly knew anything about cars at the time that i did it if that helps... lol

Hardest part is just getting the parts together that you need.

The n/t 4g63 block is the same, the higher compression pistons is what will set you back... But with higher octane, or meth injection i dont see that that will be a problem either as everything else is roughly the same.
Just make sure you get all the nessecary turbo conversion stuff you need,

what i remember off the top of my head

injector resistor pack
turbo model slave cylinder
turbo model tranny
turbo model clutch flywheel assembly ( upgrade while your there.)
turbo model ecu ( get a eprom while your at it)
turbo model injectors ( or just buy some bigger injectors )
turbo model fuel pump ( another thing that'd be better to just upgrade)
turbo model intake mani, and a tb elbow if u cant make your own elbow.
turbo model fpr if you dont have a tuning means to keep your n/t fpr.( 48psi base vs 37)
Also the turbo block is made with oil squirters that the nt didnt have...
I dont think you need them, just run good oil and get a aftermarket air to oil cooler on a 90's model oil filter housing.

Also there will be 5 wires that need to be ran back to the ecu that the turbo model had that the non turbo didnt. Everything else in the wiring harness is the same.
It wont be hard to do, its like running speaker wire to a sound system.
But you arent even close to thinking about that part.

What i learned thru it all... Do it right the first time and just go get a awd dsm thats already turbo. Even if you did turbo your n/t and build it, once you start spinning tires thru 1st and 2nd and hell even 3rd gear that wont be fun either. That is unless you like to say you have a 300-400 whp car that only runs 13s..

Anywho take the info ive provided and do some research.
Back in the day I got started with this site DSMtuners