Yea, you basically have to pull out the motor to install it properly. It would be much easier to get a Braided stainless line to replace it.

 

adjusted the upper stop 'out' so the clutch pedal would rise up higher

drove to work, seemed a little better, engagement was about a 1/2 inch higher.
leaving work, sitting at a light, light turned green, pushed clutch, car wont go into gear, tried to go to 2nd then 1st, no go.
lifted my foot, pedal stayed down. pulled pedal up, drove home ok.

got home
check reservoir, fluid still at max line
all connections look dry
cleaned off the bleeder valve really well, went to pump the pedal
noticed that if i put SLIGHT pressure on the pedal, it goes down by itself slowly
if i push the pedal down normally and hold it, i can hear a click, click sound that gets faster as the pedal pressure decreases and stays down.

the bleeder valve is still dry as are all connections.
the car drove GREAT on the leaky clutch master cylinder.

any more ideas?
im ordering that braided line in a couple days.

 

well, great news!

out of boredom, i go online to their website to see how much their slave cylinders are compared to slowboy.
click on master cylinders find the one i got

look under the picture, it says application 'except turbo'
i see the pic of the next one down

look under the picture and low and behold it says application 'turbo'

looks like im gonna get the RIGHT part and see whats up

damn i hate that shit.

so i call to get the right part orderd so my downtime is minimum, look on the box, correct box, incorrect contents.
s/w a guy named thomas, he said to come in tomorrow and they'll straighten it out.

hopefully all goes well

 

I KNEW THAT FUCKER HAD TO BE LONGER!!!! i was wanting to take the shaft out of the old one and put it in the new one. cause something was weird on how little i got of the rod! I KNEW IT !!

 

IF it seems like there isnt enough adjustment on the stock rod try this. if its anything like the 1g and you have an after market psi plate then you need to use a longer "rod". by "rod" i mean a bolt that is longer than the rod but the same thread so you can thread it onto the clevis. that will give you more adjustment. i used an a/c bolt and ground the head smooth and round like the rod that is on the master. i had to do that to my galant and it has worked great.

 

or you could just get a longer slave cylinder rod, right?

DSM Trader hosted by DSMsource.com - Extended Clutch Slave Cylinder Rod CHEAP!

 

FINALLY!!!

returned the damn thing to autozone, both of the ones i got from there came with the shaft being about 1" short.
picked one up from advance / discount.
installed
put valvoline synthetic fluid in
bled a LOT just to be safe

everything is all good

thanks for all the replies and suggestions

 

seriously how much of a pain is it to remove and replace the master cylinder. i already did the slave easy but im a big guy and not too pleased about being under my dash. i also ordered the extended slave rod from ebay it was cheaper the extreme.

 

it takes about 15-20 minutes. if you have big hands, you might wanna have someone with small hands help get 1 nut on the master cylinder thats in the engine side.

i feel like a pro now, with recently installing 2 and learning how to adjust things.

im always down to help with what i can