2g

I've researched and researched. Searched on yahoo and it keeps pointing towards the o2 sensor. The knock sensor was replaced today finally and the guy that replaced the knock sensor said the reason for my plugs getting fouled up real quick was because the car is running super rich. So I searched for answers now for about an hour and all I get is its the o2 sensor. If this is the case then I'll purchase one because I doubt its ever been replaced and the car is 17 yrs old (126k miles).

So is the o2 sensor a cause for running rich?

I went ahead and picked up a fuel filter today at Discount and I'll probably be replacing it tomorrow. Fuel filter looks like its never been replaced.

Brothers

also check to see if you have any boost leaks

2g

Thats what I've been being told for the last few days. I don't have a boost leak tester nor have an air compressor.

Before I drive the car outside of town I'll need to replace the shocks and struts so I need to find someone close by to me with one. Most people are saying check for boost leaks so I want to have it done already for my peace of mind.

Brothers

99.9 Percent Of Cars Have Boost Leaks

2g

Its a 17 yr old car I'm sure it has more then the average newer vehicle. Some of the intercooler hoses have cracks where you would tighten them down. The intercooler hoses seem bad. I'm planning just to upgrade because the hoses are garbage IMO.

me

I thought since the ECU couldn't read the knock sensor, it makes itself run rich to prevent any damage from lack of fuel?

2g

Well the knock sensor has been replaced, check engine light went away. I'll start it up today and drive it to see. Because Cheryl took the car to her job and told the guy the problems we were having and he replaced the knock sensor and said the car was running rich. Don't know if it still is after the knock sensor was replaced because Cheryl drove it home from work and I didn't drive it afterwards nor run it.

Jordan Y.

Step one in solving boost leak problems is to get rid of every vacuum line in the engine bay except for 1. compressor outlet to boost controller to wastegate actuator 2. intake manifold to bov 3. intake manifold to fuel pressure regulator (direct, remove solenoid), 4. intake manifold to brake booster and 5. wherever your boost gauge line is. Rip the rest of them out and for good measure rip out whatever emissions/random junk they're attached to. Replace the ones you keep. That solved most of my idle surge issues when I first owned my car, without any leak testing at all. Next, build yourself a boost leak tester. All you need is a pipe cap, a piece of hose the size of your turbo inlet, a bike pump, a tire valve stem to put the bike pump on, two hose clamps, and a piece of wood to prop between the tester and the fender well so it doesn't blow apart. You drill a hole in the cap, stick the valve stem through, clamp it all down on your turbo, then pump your arms off building pressure and listening for leaks. It obviously works better with an air compressor- if you were really hard up, you could go find a free air compressor at a gas station somewhere.

2g

Thanks Jordan I will try what you said. Seems like its the best thing to do at this time. I'll replace all the vac. lines and I will then build a boost leak tester. Thanks for the advice!