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more idle issues

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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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ok, my car idles ~ok~. for the most part, it stays right between 700-1000 rpms, and it only slowly makes its way back and forth. its like this about 70% of the time. the other 30%, it idles like shit and slowly circulates between 200 and 1200 (two hundred and twelve hundred)rpms.

at either time, whether its idling ok or bad, if i pull the harness out of the IAC, it doesnt make any difference at all in idle. could this be because i have an AFC?
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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Arrow Watup

i had this problem with my car.I took off the Idle sensor and got it cleaned with carb cleaner spray.Check if that works out.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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crankwalk...unless its a 6 bolt-then IDK
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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I have the exact same problem. does someone know what could cause this?
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by chillllll
crankwalk...unless its a 6 bolt-then IDK
Hey Jason do you experience any of these other problems... I know you have problems shifting but i didn't know if that cuz you can drive or is it something mechanical... but heres a link to some problems that you might have.

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q...hatiscrankwalk

I hope it ain't crankwalk man.




Oh and this is my 1000th post!!!! Lets get waisted!
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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i found this on vfaq..

"Since the clutch places pressure on the crankshaft, many owners have reported clutch or shifting problems associated with the walking crank. Having the clutch 'stick' down on left-hand turns is often a telltale sign of crankwalk. Other symptoms include inconsistent engagement height, poor or rough engagement, difficulty shifting, ticking noises and varying pedal height or pressure. Another possibility is having the engine RPM decrease significantly when the clutch pedal is down. "

i do have problems shifting, i do have ticking noises(but from the head itself, like lifters), and the pedal pressure is always the same, shitty. when i press on the clutch, even if i adjusted it to where it was a perfect feel, it made no difference on the rpms. if i do adjust the clutch, its fine until after ive driven for a while, and then the height and pressure change drastically and the clutch slips a bit. but how its adjusted right now, it shifts poorly, and i have to ease it into gear, sometimes giving it a little gas.

my cel is on, and i havnt had it checked lately, but last time i had it checked it was the maf and tps. i figured with the engine revving up and down from the bad idle, the input and output shafts(or whatever) for the trans were always spinning at different speeds and so the syncros wouldnt line up nicely. i thought of this only because when its idling nice, it shifts a lot easier.

crankwalk has crossed my mind, as there is a ultra-thin layer of grease and oil on the driver's side of the engine, but im still betting on a vaccuum, boost, or gasket leak somewhere. i might be getting a 6bolt this weekend (yaaayyyyyyyyyyyy justin!). one part of me wants to just put in a different motor and not worry about crankwalkin, and another part of me remembers all the horrible bills i have, and i just want a car that runs smoothly.
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 07:22 AM
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^ Ya man 6 bolt search! But any car can crankwalk...
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Old Feb 8, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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yeh but nowhere near as possible with a 6bolt.

you know, i dont think its crankwalk. i just have a feeling its not.

but i did think of one thing..... i think i have a act 2600 clutch. gives me nightmares. but i never push the clutch in when the car is off, should that make a difference, a little?
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