a plug or wire could do that. i had a problem similar with my plugs and wires, to where whenever i would push the gas hard it would studder and jerk alot, so i changed plugs and wires and fixed it, saving money is allways a plus, not really sure what else it would be. gl with it tho

 

Yes, a fouled plug and/or wire can cause the car to "studder and shake" violently, through idling and acceleration. As long as your car can still drive (albeit poorly), that is usually a bad wire or plug.

Usually having too much oil, or a stuck open valve (as I was mentioning earlier), would cause the car to not even start or would let the car start but then stall and die within seconds of initial startup, so I don't think your problem is that severe.

Try the plugs/wires tomorrow and let us know the outcome.

 

I do not recommend buying miscellaneous parts. Don't you have a friend that could swap out parts with you just to try to narrow down the problem? Plug wires aren't exactly cheap especially since it is not recommended to use anything other than factory. I had a similar problem about a year after I bought my car. I changed my plug wires plugs and bought a new coil pack. then I started buying the fuel parts like fuel filter fuel pump fuel pressure regulator I did all that just to narrow down a problem that still wasn't fixed. Do you know what was wrong with my car???


I bent 2 valves and actually chipped another in two places so there were two pieces missing. Anyway learn from my mistake and don't start randomly replacing things. Yes its nice to know you have all new parts but do you really want to start wasting money on something that may or may not fix the problem?

PS I was at my parents house the other day and found my old set of plugs you could test them on your car to see if that is the problem.

 

I do agree with that. Having a friend or fellow DSM'er would be helpful. I'd still say try replacing the plugs though, since they are not too expensive. The wires on the other hand, are a bit pricey.

You'll know when you have bent valves or a "stuck open" valve, because the car will literally run like shit, to the point that it's nearly undriveable, or is undriveable all together.

If you can technically drive your car still, even though it shudders/shakes a quite a bit, I'm willing to bet it's spark/fuel related.

Suprised no one mentioned this, but, is your car throwing the CEL? If so, you could limp it up to an auto parts store and have it scanned for free, or see if a fellow DSM'er here is willing to come out to your place and scan it for you.

 

How about the silcon connectors.... you make sure non of them came off? I had the same thing happen last night- car started running like shit out of the blue. THis morning i changed the plugs, checked the coils and even bypassed the ignition harness on the emanage.. I look down as I close the hood and see a hose clamp sitting there and one of the connectors off.

 

Well, i tried the car again this morning and.......... it fired up and idled fine, nothing out of the ordinary, i let it idle for a while and warm up to its normal temperature and it was still idleing fine. So i decide to give it a lil gas to see if its now running good through the RPM range and i rev it to about 1500-2000, Then it starts running like shit again. Same symptoms. The exhaust has a rhythmic sound, like 1 or 2 cylinders arent firing. Im gonna call Mike (Fellow Spring Hill DSM'er) and see if i can borrow his plugs/wires since his turbo blew the other day and the car is torn apart right now. Ill let you know how that goes. Also, can you get the NGK bpr6es plugs at places like Autozone or Napa, or do they have to be specially ordered? Thanks for all your help so far guys.

 

Oh, and as for the CEL, im not sure if its throwing a code or not, the light came on the other day when i had to pull out in front of traffic and get on it pretty hard and i hit fuel cut. After that the light came on and i was gonna get it scanned last night at the Hudson meet but it started running this way and i didnt want to risk friving the car that far. so i dont know, maybe it threw a code,i just wouldnt know because the light was already on. Its a DSM, what do you expect! LOL

 

just so you know plug wires rear there ugly face mostly when a load is put on them, say like more then idle.

 

I dont think you should be running Bpr6es' You should run 7's. You can pick them up at your local discount autoparts. The discount part number for them is 2023. GL.

 

Well the 6's came with the car and it has been running fine with them so i didnt botheqr to change them to 7's.

Well, i wasnt able to do anything at all witht he car this weekend, i had to spend the entire weekend with my GF. Ill probly play with the car tomorrow though. I fired up the car again tonight when i got home. It idles just fine, just like it always does, before it warms up i revved it a lil bit and it runs fine still and returned to a normal idle but i let it idle until it got to its normal temp and it was idleing fine, then i gave it a quick rev, no higher than 1500, and it starts idleing like crap again. hope that helps to narrow down the diagnosis. hopefullt ill try new plugs and wires tomorrow and that fixes it.