Help.. Part 2
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Help.. Part 2
Ok Im back TR, and this time with a little bit more info.
So my friend totaled his Eclipse. It was a 94 GS, and hes giving me first dibs on parts.
I own a 95 Eclipse GST. What parts can I take from his 94 GS and have them be compatible with my 95 GST? I just got the car and there are some problems with it. It is automatic with 90,xxx miles. The mods are as follows, and I do believe these are all of them, or at least I hope so:
-- Garret t3/t4 turbo
-- Greddy piping, About 2"
-- Greddy turbo timer
-- Greddy boost controller
-- Greddy type s BOV
-- Performance torque converter
-- Apexi full catback exhaust
-- Tune port o2 housing
-- New top end gaskets(all)
-- New timing belt
-- Adjustable cam gears
-- New sparkplugs and wires
-- Lowered with takiko blues
-- Drilled and slotted front rotors
-- Steel braided brake lines
Ok so all of this work was done in shops while the previous owner had it. He told me he was getting rid of the car and I picked it up. The car had some problems at first, and some were taken care of. I replaced the spark plugs and the wires, and the ignition switch, which was all out of whack. So now there are still about 4 problems I`ve yet to fix.
First, a boost leak. I dont know how to fix this problem but I know there is a way to cap off the vaccum lines to eliminate most of the possible leaks. This is quite simple to fix I guess.. I just dont know all that much about the DSMs so I need some help with working with them.
Second, the car smokes some. When Im in park or neutral and I push the gas, there is quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust. Not too sure what could be causing that either, but I know I want to get that fixed as well.
Third, when I turn left, I hear a scraping noise from inside of the wheel well. I have no clue what this is. I was told that when you hear noise when you turn left thats bad (crankwalk thing), but I dont think its that. I would think that if that was the case, I would hear it more towards the engine and not the wheel. Who knows maybe Im wrong but I need to figure this out too because you can DEFINATELY hear this while Im driving.
Last, and definately the biggest issue, there is some kind of electrical problem. While I was driving back into my driveway about a week ago, the car just stalled out. When I went to turn it back on, it was very hesitant. Finally I got the car back on, but after a few seconds, it stalled again. Then I got the car back on, and kept it at a steady 1,500 RPMs to get back into the driveway. After that, the car stayed on, but the RPMs went all wierd, going from 1,500 to 200, and back up again. It did this back and fourth until I turned off the car. A friend of mine who was working on the car with me told me that its as though the ECU is reading a loss of cylinders. It also sounds as though its missfiring, but we had just replaced the plugs and the wires about 30 minutes prior to this. I was told this problem could be 1 or more of 4 things:
1) ECU
2) Crank Sensor
3) Coil Pack
4) Power Transistor
Not too sure how to check any of these problems either, but I sure would like to know. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
So my friend totaled his Eclipse. It was a 94 GS, and hes giving me first dibs on parts.
I own a 95 Eclipse GST. What parts can I take from his 94 GS and have them be compatible with my 95 GST? I just got the car and there are some problems with it. It is automatic with 90,xxx miles. The mods are as follows, and I do believe these are all of them, or at least I hope so:
-- Garret t3/t4 turbo
-- Greddy piping, About 2"
-- Greddy turbo timer
-- Greddy boost controller
-- Greddy type s BOV
-- Performance torque converter
-- Apexi full catback exhaust
-- Tune port o2 housing
-- New top end gaskets(all)
-- New timing belt
-- Adjustable cam gears
-- New sparkplugs and wires
-- Lowered with takiko blues
-- Drilled and slotted front rotors
-- Steel braided brake lines
Ok so all of this work was done in shops while the previous owner had it. He told me he was getting rid of the car and I picked it up. The car had some problems at first, and some were taken care of. I replaced the spark plugs and the wires, and the ignition switch, which was all out of whack. So now there are still about 4 problems I`ve yet to fix.
First, a boost leak. I dont know how to fix this problem but I know there is a way to cap off the vaccum lines to eliminate most of the possible leaks. This is quite simple to fix I guess.. I just dont know all that much about the DSMs so I need some help with working with them.
Second, the car smokes some. When Im in park or neutral and I push the gas, there is quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust. Not too sure what could be causing that either, but I know I want to get that fixed as well.
Third, when I turn left, I hear a scraping noise from inside of the wheel well. I have no clue what this is. I was told that when you hear noise when you turn left thats bad (crankwalk thing), but I dont think its that. I would think that if that was the case, I would hear it more towards the engine and not the wheel. Who knows maybe Im wrong but I need to figure this out too because you can DEFINATELY hear this while Im driving.
Last, and definately the biggest issue, there is some kind of electrical problem. While I was driving back into my driveway about a week ago, the car just stalled out. When I went to turn it back on, it was very hesitant. Finally I got the car back on, but after a few seconds, it stalled again. Then I got the car back on, and kept it at a steady 1,500 RPMs to get back into the driveway. After that, the car stayed on, but the RPMs went all wierd, going from 1,500 to 200, and back up again. It did this back and fourth until I turned off the car. A friend of mine who was working on the car with me told me that its as though the ECU is reading a loss of cylinders. It also sounds as though its missfiring, but we had just replaced the plugs and the wires about 30 minutes prior to this. I was told this problem could be 1 or more of 4 things:
1) ECU
2) Crank Sensor
3) Coil Pack
4) Power Transistor
Not too sure how to check any of these problems either, but I sure would like to know. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
15 seconds EXHILARATION
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,801
Likes: 0
Garret t3/t4 turbo
Greddy boost controller[/color]
Greddy type s BOV[/color]
Performance torque converter[/color]
Apexi full catback exhaust[/color]
Tune port o2 housing[/color]
New top end gaskets(all)[/color]
New timing belt[/color]
Adjustable cam gears[/color]
New sparkplugs and wires[/color]
Lowered with takiko blues[/color]
Ok so all of this work was done in shops while the previous owner had it. He told me he was getting rid of the car and I picked it up. The car had some problems at first, and some were taken care of. I replaced the spark plugs and the wires, and the ignition switch, which was all out of whack. So now there are still about 4 problems I`ve yet to fix.
First, a boost leak. I dont know how to fix this problem but I know there is a way to cap off the vaccum lines to eliminate most of the possible leaks. This is quite simple to fix I guess.. I just dont know all that much about the DSMs so I need some help with working with them.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
That's what you make to test for boost leaks. Just need a coupler to match the size of the turbo you have on the car.
I used to have a link to a detailed diagram showing how to block off the vacuum lines. At least on a 1g, you basically pull every vacuum line except one to the blowoff valve, one to the fuel pressure regulator, one big one to the brake booster and one to the boost controller. Then usually one is tapped into the fuel pressure regulator line with a T fitting to send signal to the boost gauge. The rest of them you rip out and you disconnect and remove anything they were attached to. Solenoids, charcoal canister, etc. Then you obviously block off the ports they were attached to. Should be no more lines off the throttle body when you're done.
Second, the car smokes some. When Im in park or neutral and I push the gas, there is quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust. Not too sure what could be causing that either, but I know I want to get that fixed as well.
Does it do it after you let it idle for a while, say at a light, a puff of smoke when you accelerate? That could be valve stem seals. Or is it all the time? Have you done a compression test on it? If the compression test is good that mostly eliminates rings as a source of oil burning. Then you're left with the turbo and the valve guides/valve stem seals.
Third, when I turn left, I hear a scraping noise from inside of the wheel well. I have no clue what this is. I was told that when you hear noise when you turn left thats bad (crankwalk thing), but I dont think its that. I would think that if that was the case, I would hear it more towards the engine and not the wheel. Who knows maybe Im wrong but I need to figure this out too because you can DEFINATELY hear this while Im driving.
Jack the car up, turn the wheel to the left and see if anything is rubbing. Does it have aftermarket rims? Are they the proper offset with proper clearance? Is something like the brake line bracket loose and letting metal scrape? Check easy stuff first.
Last, and definately the biggest issue, there is some kind of electrical problem. While I was driving back into my driveway about a week ago, the car just stalled out. When I went to turn it back on, it was very hesitant. Finally I got the car back on, but after a few seconds, it stalled again. Then I got the car back on, and kept it at a steady 1,500 RPMs to get back into the driveway. After that, the car stayed on, but the RPMs went all wierd, going from 1,500 to 20, and back up again. It did this back and fourth until I turned off the car. A friend of mine who was working on the car with me told me that its as though the ECU is reading a loss of cylinders. It also sounds as though its missfiring, but we had just replaced the plugs and the wires about 30 minutes prior to this. I was told this problem could be 1 or more of 4 things:
1) ECU
2) Crank Sensor
3) Coil Pack
4) Power Transistor
That could be a whole lot of things. I can't help you here, as I could basically add any electrical component related to running or monitoring the engine to your list.
[color=#ffffff]Not too sure how to check any of these problems either, but I sure would like to know. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/color
Greddy boost controller[/color]
Greddy type s BOV[/color]
Performance torque converter[/color]
Apexi full catback exhaust[/color]
Tune port o2 housing[/color]
New top end gaskets(all)[/color]
New timing belt[/color]
Adjustable cam gears[/color]
New sparkplugs and wires[/color]
Lowered with takiko blues[/color]
Ok so all of this work was done in shops while the previous owner had it. He told me he was getting rid of the car and I picked it up. The car had some problems at first, and some were taken care of. I replaced the spark plugs and the wires, and the ignition switch, which was all out of whack. So now there are still about 4 problems I`ve yet to fix.
First, a boost leak. I dont know how to fix this problem but I know there is a way to cap off the vaccum lines to eliminate most of the possible leaks. This is quite simple to fix I guess.. I just dont know all that much about the DSMs so I need some help with working with them.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
That's what you make to test for boost leaks. Just need a coupler to match the size of the turbo you have on the car.
I used to have a link to a detailed diagram showing how to block off the vacuum lines. At least on a 1g, you basically pull every vacuum line except one to the blowoff valve, one to the fuel pressure regulator, one big one to the brake booster and one to the boost controller. Then usually one is tapped into the fuel pressure regulator line with a T fitting to send signal to the boost gauge. The rest of them you rip out and you disconnect and remove anything they were attached to. Solenoids, charcoal canister, etc. Then you obviously block off the ports they were attached to. Should be no more lines off the throttle body when you're done.
Second, the car smokes some. When Im in park or neutral and I push the gas, there is quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust. Not too sure what could be causing that either, but I know I want to get that fixed as well.
Does it do it after you let it idle for a while, say at a light, a puff of smoke when you accelerate? That could be valve stem seals. Or is it all the time? Have you done a compression test on it? If the compression test is good that mostly eliminates rings as a source of oil burning. Then you're left with the turbo and the valve guides/valve stem seals.
Third, when I turn left, I hear a scraping noise from inside of the wheel well. I have no clue what this is. I was told that when you hear noise when you turn left thats bad (crankwalk thing), but I dont think its that. I would think that if that was the case, I would hear it more towards the engine and not the wheel. Who knows maybe Im wrong but I need to figure this out too because you can DEFINATELY hear this while Im driving.
Jack the car up, turn the wheel to the left and see if anything is rubbing. Does it have aftermarket rims? Are they the proper offset with proper clearance? Is something like the brake line bracket loose and letting metal scrape? Check easy stuff first.
Last, and definately the biggest issue, there is some kind of electrical problem. While I was driving back into my driveway about a week ago, the car just stalled out. When I went to turn it back on, it was very hesitant. Finally I got the car back on, but after a few seconds, it stalled again. Then I got the car back on, and kept it at a steady 1,500 RPMs to get back into the driveway. After that, the car stayed on, but the RPMs went all wierd, going from 1,500 to 20, and back up again. It did this back and fourth until I turned off the car. A friend of mine who was working on the car with me told me that its as though the ECU is reading a loss of cylinders. It also sounds as though its missfiring, but we had just replaced the plugs and the wires about 30 minutes prior to this. I was told this problem could be 1 or more of 4 things:
1) ECU
2) Crank Sensor
3) Coil Pack
4) Power Transistor
That could be a whole lot of things. I can't help you here, as I could basically add any electrical component related to running or monitoring the engine to your list.
[color=#ffffff]Not too sure how to check any of these problems either, but I sure would like to know. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/color
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Wow Jordan iight well thanx for all of that. I`m having someone come over in the next few days to help me so we can check out all of these things.. and then I`ll let you know whats up.
Tu Papi Chulo
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 0
I still agree with everything Jordan said....
Last, and definately the biggest issue, there is some kind of electrical problem. While I was driving back into my driveway about a week ago, the car just stalled out. When I went to turn it back on, it was very hesitant. Finally I got the car back on, but after a few seconds, it stalled again. Then I got the car back on, and kept it at a steady 1,500 RPMs to get back into the driveway. After that, the car stayed on, but the RPMs went all wierd, going from 1,500 to 20, and back up again. It did this back and fourth until I turned off the car. A friend of mine who was working on the car with me told me that its as though the ECU is reading a loss of cylinders. It also sounds as though its missfiring, but we had just replaced the plugs and the wires about 30 minutes prior to this. I was told this problem could be 1 or more of 4 things:
1) ECU
2) Crank Sensor
3) Coil Pack
4) Power Transistor
As far as this goes I would definitely check your wires you said that was the last thing you did before it started having this problem so that is the first thing you should change back. What kind of wires did you get anyway? If they are anything other than OEM then they are garbage. Bigger doesn't always mean better. What plugs did you end up installing in there? what gap did you put them at? that really shouldn't affect your idle but its worth looking into if you don't have the right equipment in there. on mostly stock cars you should be running NGK BPR7ES or Discount part number 2023 and make sure you gap them correctly i think its between 28-32. Also you might want to check the IAC (Idle Air Control). that went bad on my old 95 and the idle stared going erratic and then finally it just stopped holding idle all together.
Let us know how it goes...
Last, and definately the biggest issue, there is some kind of electrical problem. While I was driving back into my driveway about a week ago, the car just stalled out. When I went to turn it back on, it was very hesitant. Finally I got the car back on, but after a few seconds, it stalled again. Then I got the car back on, and kept it at a steady 1,500 RPMs to get back into the driveway. After that, the car stayed on, but the RPMs went all wierd, going from 1,500 to 20, and back up again. It did this back and fourth until I turned off the car. A friend of mine who was working on the car with me told me that its as though the ECU is reading a loss of cylinders. It also sounds as though its missfiring, but we had just replaced the plugs and the wires about 30 minutes prior to this. I was told this problem could be 1 or more of 4 things:
1) ECU
2) Crank Sensor
3) Coil Pack
4) Power Transistor
As far as this goes I would definitely check your wires you said that was the last thing you did before it started having this problem so that is the first thing you should change back. What kind of wires did you get anyway? If they are anything other than OEM then they are garbage. Bigger doesn't always mean better. What plugs did you end up installing in there? what gap did you put them at? that really shouldn't affect your idle but its worth looking into if you don't have the right equipment in there. on mostly stock cars you should be running NGK BPR7ES or Discount part number 2023 and make sure you gap them correctly i think its between 28-32. Also you might want to check the IAC (Idle Air Control). that went bad on my old 95 and the idle stared going erratic and then finally it just stopped holding idle all together.
Let us know how it goes...
__________________
-Dario
DiSplaceMent Replacement
IF YOU NEED ANYTHING FROM CHASE PM ME!!
-Dario
DiSplaceMent Replacement
IF YOU NEED ANYTHING FROM CHASE PM ME!!
