The more power you have on a 7 bolt the more likely this is to occur. Am I right?

 

it can occur on any motor, i have seen it happen on stock 4g6's as well

 

I would say as well that its "random".

I remember when I asked a similar question like this back in the day when I first got my dsm. Good times

From the MachV site :

Quote:

The biggest indicator that you might have this problem is a clutch pedal that stays stuck to the floor, especially after making left hand turns. (The crank slides over and the flywheel slides away from the clutch, so the clutch won't engage...). If the play in the crank becomes bad enough, it breaks the crank angle sensor off the end of the crank, and the motor shuts down completely.

"Crank walk" is often mis-diagnosed by dealer technicians. We've heard of car owners replacing multiple clutches trying to fix a clutch problem, when the problem was really crank bearing wear.

This seems to be an increasingly common problem on the 95-99 turbo DSM's. We have heard firsthand of dozens of cases, and online reports seem to suggest that the numbers are in the many hundreds.

There are several theories about why this happens, including bad crank machining, oiling problems at the bearings, and excessive bearing cap tolerance. So far, no theory is proven, since the problem takes years to show up, and none of the possible solutions have been in place for that long.

 

Sometimes crankwalk is due more to the type of clutch you use vs how much power you have.

 

crankwalk is luck of the draw....err...lack of luck of the draw perhaps....anyway, i had it happen to me, and was only running a 2100lbs clutch, try not to really let it bother you, if it happens, it happens, you should always have some money put to the side anyway, if something does occur, purchase a 6 bolt short block and go through the magnus method of swapping it, however i dont think you should be sweating it till ya see signs of it

 

Very true. You should have a 6-Bolt savings fund started just in case anything does happen.

 

what are some symptoms other than the clutch sticking?

 

a grinding noise from the front of the motor, or cam gear side of the motor. also stalling while going around a left turn... or was it a right turn? i forget.

for the time being, i would suggest bypassing the neutral saftey switch so you can start your car w/o pushing the clutch in. and try not to sit at lights or stops w/ your foot on the clutch and the car in gear... the less time you spend w/ your foot on the clutch, the less time youre applying pressure to your thrust bearings.

but, again... its a pretty random thing. it can happen to anyone, at any time. hell, it even happens to AT cars. so no one is immune. hell, even 6 bolts can do it. My cousin went to get his clutch done at Buschur's and Dave told him that hes seen a few 6 bolts come thru with crank walk..

btw, if you plan to go fast and make HP, i would suggest a puck type clutch with a light/stock pressure plate. if you use a disc that doesnt use an organic full face disc, but rather a ceramic/metallic type puck, you dont need a heavy pressure plate to compress the friction material for full engagment of the drivetrain... so you can use a cover with less pressure and save your th rust bearings...

just remember, DSM"s arent the only cars that get crankwalk... even the notrious 2JZ can get crank walk, thanks to heavy duty pressure plates and neutral safety switches.

 

im poor but i plan on doing this once i start getting more money in.



+1 good stuff.




20K on my 2600 and no problems here.

 

I think it is a left turn as well. Also, I remember at a 1320 almost a year ago a very knowledgable dsm'er removed the neutral safety switch from my GS-T. He explained what you said too, I think its a nice step to take from preventing cw.