I've tested my 13b for compression using a regular compression tester a few times now, trying different things in between... The engine is not flooded. Supposedly it was rebuilt two years ago. I've messed with the mixture screws on the carb (it was swapped), and it seems to be in check as far as the fuel mixture goes. I pulled the spark plugs and there was some black around the centerpiece, but they weren't soaked or gunky or anything. They're brand new from the looks of it, but I cleaned them anyway.

Right now, I can get the motor to run, it idles fine, and I even drove it around the block a few times. It's severely lacking in power. Compression test results yield three jumps of about 40-50 PSI for both rotors.
Help? I'm new to rotors. I followed compression testing guide on Banzai-Racing/Rotary Resurrection, and these results seem to be way too low for the motor to even run. Am I doing something wrong? Are my seals just completely screwed? (I wouldn't think so, given the three jumps of compression) Maybe they're stuck?

Anything helps. Thanks.

 

run some atf through it to see if it will loosen em up

 

if both rotors are even on compression( even low comp) it will still run and drive but lack power and eat gas. its when you have an uneven balance of comp when you start getting hard starting an not stay running. My last motor had 60psi on all six face for 3000 miles before it finally blew for other reasons. started everyday and had good solid power.

 

^ He's right on the money!

and ATF or Marvel Mystery MIGHT assist you in getting the seals unstuck but they may not be sticking.

 

I think they're probably just worn.. Pulled the motor out a few days ago for rebuild!

 

Did u remove the schrader valve from the compression tester? If you didn't, the only thing that test is good for is showing CUMULATIVE compression on a rotor housing (all three faces combined) this bumper should be above 100 psi ideally, but cam be as low as 80 on an ok engine. To properly test compression between rotor faces you need to remove the schrader valve in the comprehension tester and observe the bounces. They should be much higher than 40-50. (My motor is around 90psi/ face w/ 140k). Also make sure the gas pedal (throttle plate) is fully open while cranking and that the starter is spinning the motor fast enough (iirc 500 or so rpm) all these things can affect results. As pointed out earlier, even pulses are more important than specific numbers (especially if the motor runs ok) as all the aforementioned items can affect results. More than likely its that poorly adjusted bullshit carb setup that's causing your problem.