Im thinking of opening up my 12a to take alook inside and see if i can see maybe a broken seal or something. I read that u can remove the one way cheak valve from a normal compression tester and use it for the rotary so ill do that then if its low ill open the motor up and look. My ? is do i need to replace any seals from the front part of the motor and rear because im just planing to take those off not the housing where the rotors actually sit in or can i just remove look and reinstall? thanks

 

Yes

 

Its wise to replace any SOFT seals (coolant orings, dowel pin orings, etc) while it's open. Yours sounds like it was just put together not too far back, so you *might* get away with it... but I personally wouldnt' chance it. Especially considering that a 12A gasket set is CHEAP @ Atkins Rotary - Rx7 | Rx8 | Mazda | Rotary | Engine | Parts, I want to say like $250, only

 

yea the guy says it was now something that poped into my head is can a rotor be improperly installed like rotated on the shaft and the motor still run? the reason i ask is because he said he took it to a shop but now doesent wana say wat shop so im thinkin he rebuilt it and fucked it up.

 

ok guys new info 60 psi on all rotor faces on rotor nearest radiator then 60 and two like 50 to 55 psi on rear closest to tranny from wat i read that = bad apex seal rite? first question is wat exactly do i replace that one seal or all 3 on the rear rotor or wat? If i just take off the rear plate i can do all of this without needing to take the whole motor apart right?

 

If the rotors were backward the car wouldnt run! You would destroy the eccentric shaft, stationary gear, rotor bearings, and main bearings. You cant take half the motor apart and then rebuild it, just cause it gets messy when you disassmble and everything should be inspected. BUT at 60 psi it could be all source of things like cracked apex seal, used apex seals, worn out housings, or side seals collapse!
You should just take it apart and see the damage and call it a day!!!

 

I concur with Landons aforementioned statement.

 

Tear it apart. get new seals and springs. Replace whatever soft gaskets you cant re use. check all the clearances on those "new housings" and if you can rebuild it with just that, then throw it back together (the right way) and get it on the road so you can come roll with the rest of the rotards

 

Forgot to say this was done cold #'s shouldent be that different right? and well my thing always was if i have to open it i want a bridge port because its only street ported any sugestions on who and is it a good idea? The last thing is if the housings look good and smooth how to i check that there not to big as in boreing a motor then leaving original piston sorry for da refference only way i could think of it

 

shared_pm me i have a guy that can bridge ported and if you change the apex seals check the corner seals if u have new ones u might not have a problem but they do have the lil rubber insert unless u got solid corner seals also if you are going to bridge port i recommend getting the solid apex it a pain in the behind to use 2 pice one.....