What did you do to your mazda today?
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Joined: Sep 2008
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^good shit man....
16 gauge sheetmetal is to thin for effective blockoff plates. 1/8 inch aluminum is cutting it close for some of the plates, best advise is to just man up and get a 1 foot x 1 foot square of 1/4 inch aluminum stock for anyone contemplating building block off plates.... and some gasket paper, cuz RTV is really starting to piss me off! With that said, i re made some block off plates last night (while it poured on me) to help eliminate the massive vacuum leaks and the running quality continues to sound better after every fix. Hopefully all the plates are good to go now (tho i will be rebuilding some of them here shortly anyways, for peace of mind). I now need a T2 UIM to LIM gasket to fix another leak i think i found.... And i will drive the car (once running) to Proven Power with no BOV! Let me say that again... DRIVING WITHOUT A BOV! the 3rd gen POS BOV i have set up is constantly venting. AND FSM for the lose! Limited information at best.... no indication of what timing actually should be other than, line up the yellow marks... yeah no shit jack ass! BTW, anyone know the stock timing for a T2? I seem to be having a hell of a time finding it
16 gauge sheetmetal is to thin for effective blockoff plates. 1/8 inch aluminum is cutting it close for some of the plates, best advise is to just man up and get a 1 foot x 1 foot square of 1/4 inch aluminum stock for anyone contemplating building block off plates.... and some gasket paper, cuz RTV is really starting to piss me off! With that said, i re made some block off plates last night (while it poured on me) to help eliminate the massive vacuum leaks and the running quality continues to sound better after every fix. Hopefully all the plates are good to go now (tho i will be rebuilding some of them here shortly anyways, for peace of mind). I now need a T2 UIM to LIM gasket to fix another leak i think i found.... And i will drive the car (once running) to Proven Power with no BOV! Let me say that again... DRIVING WITHOUT A BOV! the 3rd gen POS BOV i have set up is constantly venting. AND FSM for the lose! Limited information at best.... no indication of what timing actually should be other than, line up the yellow marks... yeah no shit jack ass! BTW, anyone know the stock timing for a T2? I seem to be having a hell of a time finding it
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Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
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PIT KREW
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Team Decep!
you never saw it coming
Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
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PIT KREW
TEAM MEMBER
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Team Decep!
you never saw it coming
All Day
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 86
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?
I dont get it...line up the mark on the pulley, pull the crank angle sensor, line those two marks on the bottom and stab it. Then get a test light and hook it to the #1 leading plug. Unless your doing something different thats all there is. Also, your idle has to be under 1k rpms.
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Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
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Joined: Sep 2008
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lol that would be amazingly simple.... if i were setting the timing on a stock T2 with a T2 timing pulley 
I have a 6 port (13b NA) turbo (T2 manifolds, turbo, injectors, etc), running a T2 front cover (that didnt come with a timing pulley) and the NA timing pulley. For those that dont know, the pulley will only align on the front Ecentric shaft hub in one way, due to the bolt pattern. Thus being said, most people dont realize that the front cover and pulley are paired and marked accordingly. Thus being said, grab another pulley from a spare engine, and you'll probably be a degree or two off of what the actual timing is, which wouldnt be horrible as long as you stayed on the safe side...
Now for the awesome and fun part... Keyway at 9 o clock, timing mark at 12... doesnt line up for me. Thus the creation of new timing marks on a pulley. Thus the need to establish the closest to exact determination for TDC (flashlight and mirror in rear leading and trailing technique). So once TDC was established, i now need to know what degrees the T2 is set to from the factory so i have an idea of where to start with my timing... NA timing plus boost = bad day. Haynes manual doesnt say Shit! line up yellow mark with needle on front cover and blah blah blah... The only thing ive been able to find is that under boost, between 10 - 13 pounds, timing was advanced (through factory timing advance features) to 16 degrees. Which is awesome except stock boost is gated at 6 pounds.... and that still doesnt gimme a starting point. Oh more food for thought, Mazda was amazing in that the timing pulleys meassure 360mm. Thus every 1 mm = 1 degree of timing. So marking the pulley wont be an issue.... i just dont know where to start.
I have a 6 port (13b NA) turbo (T2 manifolds, turbo, injectors, etc), running a T2 front cover (that didnt come with a timing pulley) and the NA timing pulley. For those that dont know, the pulley will only align on the front Ecentric shaft hub in one way, due to the bolt pattern. Thus being said, most people dont realize that the front cover and pulley are paired and marked accordingly. Thus being said, grab another pulley from a spare engine, and you'll probably be a degree or two off of what the actual timing is, which wouldnt be horrible as long as you stayed on the safe side...
Now for the awesome and fun part... Keyway at 9 o clock, timing mark at 12... doesnt line up for me. Thus the creation of new timing marks on a pulley. Thus the need to establish the closest to exact determination for TDC (flashlight and mirror in rear leading and trailing technique). So once TDC was established, i now need to know what degrees the T2 is set to from the factory so i have an idea of where to start with my timing... NA timing plus boost = bad day. Haynes manual doesnt say Shit! line up yellow mark with needle on front cover and blah blah blah... The only thing ive been able to find is that under boost, between 10 - 13 pounds, timing was advanced (through factory timing advance features) to 16 degrees. Which is awesome except stock boost is gated at 6 pounds.... and that still doesnt gimme a starting point. Oh more food for thought, Mazda was amazing in that the timing pulleys meassure 360mm. Thus every 1 mm = 1 degree of timing. So marking the pulley wont be an issue.... i just dont know where to start.
__________________
Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
__________________
PIT KREW
TEAM MEMBER
________________
Team Decep!
you never saw it coming
Tampa Bay Rotary Owners Club Member # 4
__________________
PIT KREW
TEAM MEMBER
________________
Team Decep!
you never saw it coming
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2005
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I've rebuilt an s5 engine, swapped it into an s4, removed emissions ( sad face, I wish I could keep them on), it has a new trans (thanks robin), new clutch + hydraulics/ etc., converted to manual rack, cleaned it, and more.
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engine, not motor
engine, not motor
All Day
Joined: Jul 2010
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Wow...16 is where I have mine set up. (microtech) The setting that I have under 14 psi is 14. And the max timing I have is 30 so 30 minus 14 = 16 advance. I dont think the stock ECU does anything after 8.8 psi
(one of the main reasons why ppl blow their engines and/or are in need of a fuel cut pretender)
Im not sure about your T2 front cover. I would just get your stock one and slap that bitch back on. Here is some of many free FSM web sites. FUCK haynes manual!
RotaryHeads.com - 2nd Gen RX-7 PDF Technical Manuals FC3S
Mazda RX-7 Reference Materials
I believe from stock the yellow timing mark means 5* ATDC. and the read mean 15* ATDC. I dont think top dead center exist on a rotary.
(one of the main reasons why ppl blow their engines and/or are in need of a fuel cut pretender)
Im not sure about your T2 front cover. I would just get your stock one and slap that bitch back on. Here is some of many free FSM web sites. FUCK haynes manual!
RotaryHeads.com - 2nd Gen RX-7 PDF Technical Manuals FC3S
Mazda RX-7 Reference Materials
I believe from stock the yellow timing mark means 5* ATDC. and the read mean 15* ATDC. I dont think top dead center exist on a rotary.
lol that would be amazingly simple.... if i were setting the timing on a stock T2 with a T2 timing pulley
I have a 6 port (13b NA) turbo (T2 manifolds, turbo, injectors, etc), running a T2 front cover (that didnt come with a timing pulley) and the NA timing pulley. For those that dont know, the pulley will only align on the front Ecentric shaft hub in one way, due to the bolt pattern. Thus being said, most people dont realize that the front cover and pulley are paired and marked accordingly. Thus being said, grab another pulley from a spare engine, and you'll probably be a degree or two off of what the actual timing is, which wouldnt be horrible as long as you stayed on the safe side...
Now for the awesome and fun part... Keyway at 9 o clock, timing mark at 12... doesnt line up for me. Thus the creation of new timing marks on a pulley. Thus the need to establish the closest to exact determination for TDC (flashlight and mirror in rear leading and trailing technique). So once TDC was established, i now need to know what degrees the T2 is set to from the factory so i have an idea of where to start with my timing... NA timing plus boost = bad day. Haynes manual doesnt say Shit! line up yellow mark with needle on front cover and blah blah blah... The only thing ive been able to find is that under boost, between 10 - 13 pounds, timing was advanced (through factory timing advance features) to 16 degrees. Which is awesome except stock boost is gated at 6 pounds.... and that still doesnt gimme a starting point. Oh more food for thought, Mazda was amazing in that the timing pulleys meassure 360mm. Thus every 1 mm = 1 degree of timing. So marking the pulley wont be an issue.... i just dont know where to start.
I have a 6 port (13b NA) turbo (T2 manifolds, turbo, injectors, etc), running a T2 front cover (that didnt come with a timing pulley) and the NA timing pulley. For those that dont know, the pulley will only align on the front Ecentric shaft hub in one way, due to the bolt pattern. Thus being said, most people dont realize that the front cover and pulley are paired and marked accordingly. Thus being said, grab another pulley from a spare engine, and you'll probably be a degree or two off of what the actual timing is, which wouldnt be horrible as long as you stayed on the safe side...
Now for the awesome and fun part... Keyway at 9 o clock, timing mark at 12... doesnt line up for me. Thus the creation of new timing marks on a pulley. Thus the need to establish the closest to exact determination for TDC (flashlight and mirror in rear leading and trailing technique). So once TDC was established, i now need to know what degrees the T2 is set to from the factory so i have an idea of where to start with my timing... NA timing plus boost = bad day. Haynes manual doesnt say Shit! line up yellow mark with needle on front cover and blah blah blah... The only thing ive been able to find is that under boost, between 10 - 13 pounds, timing was advanced (through factory timing advance features) to 16 degrees. Which is awesome except stock boost is gated at 6 pounds.... and that still doesnt gimme a starting point. Oh more food for thought, Mazda was amazing in that the timing pulleys meassure 360mm. Thus every 1 mm = 1 degree of timing. So marking the pulley wont be an issue.... i just dont know where to start.
__________________
Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
Some people see what they want to see, but some others see what is. The world of appearance is more appealing than reality to many.
B anned
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
^good shit man....
16 gauge sheetmetal is to thin for effective blockoff plates. 1/8 inch aluminum is cutting it close for some of the plates, best advise is to just man up and get a 1 foot x 1 foot square of 1/4 inch aluminum stock for anyone contemplating building block off plates.... and some gasket paper, cuz RTV is really starting to piss me off! With that said, i re made some block off plates last night (while it poured on me) to help eliminate the massive vacuum leaks and the running quality continues to sound better after every fix. Hopefully all the plates are good to go now (tho i will be rebuilding some of them here shortly anyways, for peace of mind). I now need a T2 UIM to LIM gasket to fix another leak i think i found.... And i will drive the car (once running) to Proven Power with no BOV! Let me say that again... DRIVING WITHOUT A BOV! the 3rd gen POS BOV i have set up is constantly venting. AND FSM for the lose! Limited information at best.... no indication of what timing actually should be other than, line up the yellow marks... yeah no shit jack ass! BTW, anyone know the stock timing for a T2? I seem to be having a hell of a time finding it
16 gauge sheetmetal is to thin for effective blockoff plates. 1/8 inch aluminum is cutting it close for some of the plates, best advise is to just man up and get a 1 foot x 1 foot square of 1/4 inch aluminum stock for anyone contemplating building block off plates.... and some gasket paper, cuz RTV is really starting to piss me off! With that said, i re made some block off plates last night (while it poured on me) to help eliminate the massive vacuum leaks and the running quality continues to sound better after every fix. Hopefully all the plates are good to go now (tho i will be rebuilding some of them here shortly anyways, for peace of mind). I now need a T2 UIM to LIM gasket to fix another leak i think i found.... And i will drive the car (once running) to Proven Power with no BOV! Let me say that again... DRIVING WITHOUT A BOV! the 3rd gen POS BOV i have set up is constantly venting. AND FSM for the lose! Limited information at best.... no indication of what timing actually should be other than, line up the yellow marks... yeah no shit jack ass! BTW, anyone know the stock timing for a T2? I seem to be having a hell of a time finding it
