Alt not getting signal??
hey guys my alt iis getting signal to charge i had everything tested and it all tested out fine battery alt but when he tested the alt in the car it wasnt getting signal and now i cant figure out whats wrong i found some wire clips that arent hooked up or broken and i dont know where they go i snaped a few pics to show you thanks again
*EDIT* okay i think i fixed it but now when ever it rains really hard my battery doesnt charge any ideas also i know rx7 have overheating issues if i get an aftermarket radiator and fan will this help any or should i just stick with the stock one and one more thing my air box is missing almost all the screws to keep it closed does anyone know if they are special screws because i went to walmart and couldnt gind one to fit i didnt work to hard tho but if someone can help me out thanks
*EDIT* okay i think i fixed it but now when ever it rains really hard my battery doesnt charge any ideas also i know rx7 have overheating issues if i get an aftermarket radiator and fan will this help any or should i just stick with the stock one and one more thing my air box is missing almost all the screws to keep it closed does anyone know if they are special screws because i went to walmart and couldnt gind one to fit i didnt work to hard tho but if someone can help me out thanks
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Last edited by TPNORTH; Sep 9, 2007 at 04:24 PM. Reason: new problem
okay well i think i made things worse i was working on putting the alt back and there is this gold colored o ring clap on the top let and when i was putting it in i touch the body of the car and sent sparks everywhere and now the car is DOA stupid mistake that i feel is gonna cost me now
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Where to start...
#1
Check the main engine fuse (should be the 80amp joint in the center of the engine fuse box) bet you its blown. Good news a new fuse is about 2 bux at autozone. While you're at it you might as well get replacements for all the fuses and keep them in the car. Cuz you'll feel like an ass if you have to pay a tow charge for a $1 fuse going out.
#2
In pic 4. That black plug w/ the green and red wire is for the Aux Fan temp sensor. As your sensor bung in the WP housing (see pic 1) is neither drilled, nor tapped for a sensor, don't worry about it. The fan is about the size of a CD and doesn't do much anyway.
#3
That Green backed plug in pic 2 is the Temp Thermo Sensor. It tells the ecu what temp the engine is running at so it can thus provide the proper amount of fuel. If this is disconnected your car will probably run like shit. Either really rich (hopefully) or really lean
. If that broken green plug is supposed to plug into the thermo sensor (ie, there is nothing plugged into the thermo sensor currently) you should get a new plug and fix that with great expedience.
#4
Sorry, but I really can't help too much w/ the alt situation. Is the alt putting out voltage? what was it putting out? What signal does the alt need to charge? last time I checked the alt ran when the car ran, and it put out voltage to power the car and charge the battery (if above 14V). Not really clear on what the issue is here.
#1
Check the main engine fuse (should be the 80amp joint in the center of the engine fuse box) bet you its blown. Good news a new fuse is about 2 bux at autozone. While you're at it you might as well get replacements for all the fuses and keep them in the car. Cuz you'll feel like an ass if you have to pay a tow charge for a $1 fuse going out.
#2
In pic 4. That black plug w/ the green and red wire is for the Aux Fan temp sensor. As your sensor bung in the WP housing (see pic 1) is neither drilled, nor tapped for a sensor, don't worry about it. The fan is about the size of a CD and doesn't do much anyway.
#3
That Green backed plug in pic 2 is the Temp Thermo Sensor. It tells the ecu what temp the engine is running at so it can thus provide the proper amount of fuel. If this is disconnected your car will probably run like shit. Either really rich (hopefully) or really lean
#4
Sorry, but I really can't help too much w/ the alt situation. Is the alt putting out voltage? what was it putting out? What signal does the alt need to charge? last time I checked the alt ran when the car ran, and it put out voltage to power the car and charge the battery (if above 14V). Not really clear on what the issue is here.
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"If losing you are yet no mistakes you have made, a different game you should play" - Yoda

"If losing you are yet no mistakes you have made, a different game you should play" - Yoda

thanks for the help as for the alt im not sure either had it tested at advance and he is like its not comming up at all so i pulled it off and had it tested and they said it was perfect so its not getting a signal to charge the battery i got very confused to say the least and the car has been running rich latly and i think thats why
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Ohhh, a signal to the battery. Well, you'd be best to just run a new ground, and a new wire to the batter/ relay/ breaker box whatever.
There's also an engine ground on the drivers side shock tower underneath all those wires. Freshin that up w/ a little sand paper, a new bolt and some dielectric grease.
Once you do that (and the aforementions things) you should be in good shape.
There's also an engine ground on the drivers side shock tower underneath all those wires. Freshin that up w/ a little sand paper, a new bolt and some dielectric grease.
Once you do that (and the aforementions things) you should be in good shape.
okay ill work on the ground but the car started up today after i charged the battery but now i start it up it shoot up and idles high like it normaly does like 4000-5000 rpms and then kicks down to 2100/2000 but it usualy is around 900/800 any ideas what it could be now?? oh and the car wasnt running really rich but it was running richer when i got it it came with a a/f gauge so thats how i know.
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Not sure what to tell you about the idle, put the high RPM's @ start up is the accelerated warm up (dumb idea on mazda's part). Although that's only supposed to be around 3000 rpm...
N/A's run rich stock even in good condition, w/ an SAFC or Rtek you can prolly get 15 hp just from trimming the fuel maps.
N/A's run rich stock even in good condition, w/ an SAFC or Rtek you can prolly get 15 hp just from trimming the fuel maps.
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"If losing you are yet no mistakes you have made, a different game you should play" - Yoda

"If losing you are yet no mistakes you have made, a different game you should play" - Yoda

Get the alt checked again...if anything the old battery just can't hold charge. Also make sure he tested the diode.
What are u reading as far as voltage in the car? Is it above 12.5?
Also, make sure you plugged back in that green plug..it for the temp reading and that you didn't knock off any wires. If its running really rich check that the ignition wires are on right and that the coil are properly grounded.
CHECK EVERY GROUND
What are u reading as far as voltage in the car? Is it above 12.5?
Also, make sure you plugged back in that green plug..it for the temp reading and that you didn't knock off any wires. If its running really rich check that the ignition wires are on right and that the coil are properly grounded.
CHECK EVERY GROUND
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JDM FC
JDM FC
Last edited by Rx7_guy; Sep 7, 2007 at 07:34 AM.
fixed it turned out to be a bad negative battery clamp and the idle was so high because i think the battery was so dead that the alt kicked up and made the car idle higher to charge it because after maybe 10 mins it when down and sayed down and my volts went up to maybe 13
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