flooding trouble
Anyone been having trouble with there cars flooding latly? Ive had it twice so far, One was when i changed the heater hose on the car and the other was this afternoon when i was leaving from work. I did drive for a short period this morning but it was usually long enough for the car to get past the warm up cycle. Just wondering if the cold weather is making the warm up cycle take longer then before.
Well I left this up to see which "tuners" "mechanics" or so calleds were going to respond.
1)"Flooding" can be the first sign of low compression.
When you got the car,did you get a compression reading from all 3 sides of the rotor/apex seals?
If so how did they look?
2)When was the last time you changed your plugs?
They can be so carbon cloged its not getting proper spark,therefor the plugs gets flooded.
If you have not had a compression test ran,try option number 2.
If you have alot of "flooding" issues..
Pop your hood,pull the "EGI" fuse.. which should be the second fuse counting from the back of the fuses while you are standing on the drivers side.
1)Pull the fuse out.
2)Crank the car,this flushes the gas/fumes out of the exhaust,while it does not let the injectors spray "unfloods"
3)Put EGI fuse back in,and crank car.. plugs still might be really wet.Car might studder and have alot of smoke at first.. but its fine
*DO NOT CRIMP THE FUEL LINE,going to the engine*.. people do this with vise grips,and you could damage and weeken your fuel line..so do not do..
Let me know how that works
1)"Flooding" can be the first sign of low compression.
When you got the car,did you get a compression reading from all 3 sides of the rotor/apex seals?
If so how did they look?
2)When was the last time you changed your plugs?
They can be so carbon cloged its not getting proper spark,therefor the plugs gets flooded.
If you have not had a compression test ran,try option number 2.
If you have alot of "flooding" issues..
Pop your hood,pull the "EGI" fuse.. which should be the second fuse counting from the back of the fuses while you are standing on the drivers side.
1)Pull the fuse out.
2)Crank the car,this flushes the gas/fumes out of the exhaust,while it does not let the injectors spray "unfloods"
3)Put EGI fuse back in,and crank car.. plugs still might be really wet.Car might studder and have alot of smoke at first.. but its fine
*DO NOT CRIMP THE FUEL LINE,going to the engine*.. people do this with vise grips,and you could damage and weeken your fuel line..so do not do..
Let me know how that works
since ive owned the car this has been the first 2 times. I think the first time ti did it was b/c it stalled due to overheating(hense the replacement of broken heaterline) So i kinda expected it too. The second time came at a suprise.
I did one before i bought the car and the numbers were good.
I had to do the EGI trick to unflood it both times.
Does the putting pedal to floor and turning key actully work? Both times i tried that and it didnt do shit except make a hole in the ozone.
The plugs are less then 2months old. I bought TII plugs so they would last longer. i know the N/A plugs are a POS.
I havnt had the issue since. Im hoping when it happened the second time i just didnt let it warm up enough or something. But its been starting fine now and havnt had any trouble.
Thanks
I did one before i bought the car and the numbers were good.
I had to do the EGI trick to unflood it both times.
Does the putting pedal to floor and turning key actully work? Both times i tried that and it didnt do shit except make a hole in the ozone.
The plugs are less then 2months old. I bought TII plugs so they would last longer. i know the N/A plugs are a POS.
I havnt had the issue since. Im hoping when it happened the second time i just didnt let it warm up enough or something. But its been starting fine now and havnt had any trouble.
Thanks
Did you do a compression test,with a piston style tester?
I personally,never heard of flooring it while starting will work.Unless it cuts the injectors off (since you dont need to pump a FI car,like a carb to get fuel in)
N/A plugs and TII plugs are the same,BUR7EQ/BUR9EQ
You can get them in diffrent heat ranges.I run FC style plugs in my first gen.They are sealed.. and suppose to be "platinum" but rotary engines produce so much carbon.I clean mine once a week or every 2 weeks to keep them clean.Pre mixing,running to rich,out of timing.. will make plugs wear/foul easy
I personally,never heard of flooring it while starting will work.Unless it cuts the injectors off (since you dont need to pump a FI car,like a carb to get fuel in)
N/A plugs and TII plugs are the same,BUR7EQ/BUR9EQ
You can get them in diffrent heat ranges.I run FC style plugs in my first gen.They are sealed.. and suppose to be "platinum" but rotary engines produce so much carbon.I clean mine once a week or every 2 weeks to keep them clean.Pre mixing,running to rich,out of timing.. will make plugs wear/foul easy
Originally Posted by CrypticApathy
im running rich, you can almost smell my car before you see it. No the compression test was done with one for rotaries. Jorge was the one that did it before i bought the car.
Im wondering how he did it,cause the Mazda style tester,reads all 3 faces of the rotor once.Or was it a hand held one.
Do you premix also?
Just for preventive maintence.I would clean the plugs every few weeks,or atlease once a month.
Definitely cleaning plugs off helps, once it floods once it tends to foul them up pretty bad.
Flooring it works 2 different ways. -
1) Series 5's cut fuel to the injectors when you've got the throttle at 100% on startup.
2) it allows more air into the engine to push the gas OUT, it also makes the oil meter pump on S4's (mechanical, connected to the throttle via a metal link bar) dump more oil than at idle - providing better sealing (Like the oil in the spark plug holes trick) - unflooding a S4 like this takes a long time, can kill your battery or your starter, and usually makes tons of smoke once it starts.
Just pull the fuse on S4's.
Flooring it works 2 different ways. -
1) Series 5's cut fuel to the injectors when you've got the throttle at 100% on startup.
2) it allows more air into the engine to push the gas OUT, it also makes the oil meter pump on S4's (mechanical, connected to the throttle via a metal link bar) dump more oil than at idle - providing better sealing (Like the oil in the spark plug holes trick) - unflooding a S4 like this takes a long time, can kill your battery or your starter, and usually makes tons of smoke once it starts.
Just pull the fuse on S4's.
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1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
134.7 RWHP - Going slow in style

1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - "Champagne"
134.7 RWHP - Going slow in style




not good man,that causes major problems,specially compression problems.