hachibill

i basically have my shit together when it comes to toyota's and nissans haveing a 12sec drift spec 240, but i have a friend who just got ahold of a 87 turboII. its bone stock, but the motor has been rebuilt. he wants to set it up for drifting and i need to do some backround reasearch on this car. anyone have any info or sites that deal with these cars specifically. i.e weak points int he motor/tranny/suspension, specs of the stock motors/turbo set up. i have a basic plan of attack, but don't want to proceed until i have my facts strait. he already bought a koyo and a a set of nice fans, next is gonna be a set of tein coilovers. always stayed away from rotaries cause all they like to do is blow up. i know the diff mounts suck and the best way to make a rotary live is to keep it cool. i was thinking v-mount instead of front mount....

what type of lsd do these cars come with stock (vicous,clutch,torsen????)
can you do a turbo back exhaust with out doing a computer upgrade? and if soo how much boost can you run on the stock set up safely?

thanks for any info or suggestions.

AbortRetryFail

i'm pretty sure the 87 TII is a 2-way clutch type LSD.

One thing that makes these cars (FC's) a bit of pain drift is the rear steering bullshit (DTSS). there's rubber bushings that let the rear wheels toe out/in based on how much G-force is on that wheel. It makes it hard to tell when you're going to lose traction. You can still do it (i have... and i suck). And there's new (solid) bushings you can get that make that shit just go away.

Im /PRETTY SURE/ you can swap the exhaust out without changing the computer... (i dont have a TII just read about them) but they fuel-cut the rear rotor at 10psi (someone correct me if i'm wrong plz). Fuel cut defencers change the signal from the pressure sensor so the ECU gets wrong readings... (aka: run more boost but your fuel maps will be set for lower boost... kaboom?)

Somebody with a TII get on here and post !!!

landon303

as far as rotaries just blowing up, it wont happen unless your a mechanical idiot. basically just dont let it get too hot, and dont go over 3K when it's cold with a koyo & dual fans, it most likely wont get hot, ever. heres a good site with tons of info on the n/a & TII, should have some stuff for ya. link is http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/tech1.htm

DriftFC

Alrighty here we go, basically yes keeping cool and general maintnence saves the motor. I ran 10psi all day long on the stock set up without any problems. All I had was an FCD, (which if you need I'll sell you on the cheap.) Rear steer is a little bit of a bitch but not too much. All TII came with Viscous LSD only 87-88 GXL's came with 2way clutch type. You could technically put a GXL diff in a TII but it's way too big of a pain in the ass and wouldn't hold up too well. Turbo back exhaust is no problem. No real mods have to be made until beyond 10psi. There was a discousion on the FC board about the best intercooler setup and it was pretty much decided by all that front mount was best. However, the front mount needs to be as close as possible to the radiator. Otherwise you have a large viod between them and the pocket slows the air entering the radiator down and makes the setup ineffecient. Good fans will help too with a FMIC kit, since its against the front bumper and not the radiator. Also you have to keep in mind the big ass oil cooler and it's air flow... Ask arjay about drifting in the FC's hes the best I know of around here and drifted the shit out of mine with stock suspension. On the diff mounts I snapped two of mine and ended up going with Mazdaspeed Comp. mounts. So far i'm really happy with them. Another good thing about the FC is even though they weren't that heavily tuned over here they had a huge following in Japan and so it's relativly easy to find good used jap parts. Common problems are the windshield wiper switch, sunroof rust, electric windows. I'm sure there are a few more but I can't remember off the top of my head. TeamFC3S is the best resource for info on the FC hands down. The web site is www.teamfc3s.org. Any other questions feel free to ask. I also have lots of parts so if you need anything I might have it.

CoRDiTe

FC'S are known for Cold Solder Points. The older they get the solder points start to break and wear down. Which causes your electircal system to get very faulty. Most RX-7's I run into The A/C system is messed up. The interior lights for the A/C dont work anymore when you turn on the Retractor Lights.. Also Many people keep switching out there Wiper Motors and they still run into the same problem with it only working on one speed " Slow ". Also I've noticed this on 87-88 GXL's The right passenger side Power window faults lots of time. Ones I ran into keep heating up way to much and causing the right side to burn up and break and they keep being replaced, also your Clock always keeps resetting when you start the car or shuts off or flicks off and on when you drive. Fix the Solder points in the system.



- CoRDiTe

FC3Cturbo

All TII FC's DID NOT come with the crappy vicous lsd. s4 TII along with every other s4 model with an lsd has a clutch type. ALL s5 models with lsd's have viscous. You can swap it out for a 7" 96* miata torsen lsd (for 7" n/a rears). I have a FD torsen lsd installed in my TII rear end, it is a direct bolt-in. As for upgrades, 3" turbo-back exhaust, rtek 1.7, safcII, 720cc secondairies. Tell him to go to rx7club.com, you can get any help you need as long as you search before you start a thread, you will get flamed for not searching.

hachibill

ok cool, defitelty need to take care of that rear steer thing, i tried to drift it and was a little baffled at how it behaved, now i know. so after the koyo i think we'll do the suspension/bushings and exhaust and maybe the front mount. that should be good for now.

what kit is the best for the money as far as front mounts go? and as far as the down pipe and 02 housing? i think the exhaust is gonna be a apexi double N1.

AbortRetryFail

Yep, but once you get her sideways the car slides like pure sex...

If i had the tools (a press and shit) i'd have put the DTSS eliminator bushings in already on my car...

FC3Cturbo

Hey hachi, do you post on sfldriters? As far as the downpipe is concerned how much boost do you want to run? Racingbeat provides the best downpipes imo. As for front mounts, you can't beat the $250 ebay ones with your own $110 worth of pipes and getting a shop to cut and bend them. HKS, GREDDY FMIC kits will cost you $900 but do exactly the same. If your running an S4 turbo charger I highly reccomend that you take it off and port your wastegate, I did it to mine and I get a nice solid 6psi with my 2" downpipe and 2.5" straight-pipe. And for the drifting aspect the rear steer does suck for lowspeed drifts, but at 50mph it is pretty nice having that extra oversteer

Pineapple

one word bill, e-brake. I could only do e-brake with mine with the solid steer bushings installed. It's way different than a 240. It doesn't want to slide that easily. You should have your friend try drifting it over and over and over until he finally gets how to do it.