Who runs synthetic in the oil injected rotariers?
Not , because Scott says its bad and so does everyone else in the rotary community . I also dont feel like being hte guinney pig to find out .
Texaco Havoline 20W-50 Pre-Mix with 2 cycle every couple tanks or so .
Texaco Havoline 20W-50 Pre-Mix with 2 cycle every couple tanks or so .
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R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup
Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped
It is a myth that good quality sythetics don't burn well or leave residue.
The 20W50 Amsoil has a flash point of 482F, and less ash (what is left after the oil is burned) than the famed Castrol GTX oils as well as any other 20W50 other than Redline. As a quick comparison, the ash left from Valvoline Turbo (conventional oil) is .99, while the ash left from Redline and Amsoil, both are less than .5 (with actually Redline showing less than .01 in many cases).
There are less additives and junk in the oil in most good quality synthetics than any conventional oil... which means fewer deposits.
That is why I recommend their use to people that have the extra money. Hands down, without any doubts, and proven over and over and over again, good quality synthetics burn cleaner, with less residue, and increased horsepower. The only thing that does not make them attractive is the cost.
I will say this again, for the people unable to search on this subject or too dumb to read the data sheets:
A good quality synthetic (like Amsoil, Redline, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1) is perfectly fine to use in a rotary. It is the poor quality ones (like Valvoine, Castrol Syntec, Havoilne, etc) should be avoided like the plauge as they do have the increased additives and left over ash that makes there use unsuited for a rotary or any high reving engines operation. Valvoline Synthetics and Castrol Syntec oils typically have a ash of 1.5...:o
And that hench is the problem... Mazda could not say, its okay to use Redline synthetic, but not Castrol syntec. Of course, Castrol GTX oils are probably the best conventional oils made, but Mazda couldn't say use one, but not the other... so they said don't use any.
The 20W50 Amsoil has a flash point of 482F, and less ash (what is left after the oil is burned) than the famed Castrol GTX oils as well as any other 20W50 other than Redline. As a quick comparison, the ash left from Valvoline Turbo (conventional oil) is .99, while the ash left from Redline and Amsoil, both are less than .5 (with actually Redline showing less than .01 in many cases).
There are less additives and junk in the oil in most good quality synthetics than any conventional oil... which means fewer deposits.
That is why I recommend their use to people that have the extra money. Hands down, without any doubts, and proven over and over and over again, good quality synthetics burn cleaner, with less residue, and increased horsepower. The only thing that does not make them attractive is the cost.
I will say this again, for the people unable to search on this subject or too dumb to read the data sheets:
A good quality synthetic (like Amsoil, Redline, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1) is perfectly fine to use in a rotary. It is the poor quality ones (like Valvoine, Castrol Syntec, Havoilne, etc) should be avoided like the plauge as they do have the increased additives and left over ash that makes there use unsuited for a rotary or any high reving engines operation. Valvoline Synthetics and Castrol Syntec oils typically have a ash of 1.5...:o
And that hench is the problem... Mazda could not say, its okay to use Redline synthetic, but not Castrol syntec. Of course, Castrol GTX oils are probably the best conventional oils made, but Mazda couldn't say use one, but not the other... so they said don't use any.
I use Castrol GTX 20w50 in all my cars. Only other stuff I'd use would be Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, or Amsoil. Redline and Royal Purple can't be bought in a store so thats out for me. Mobil 1 is a little expensive and haven't seen Amsoil(but haven't looked).
good info rotary buddha. thanks !
Ill stick to my regular castrol gtx oil NON SYNTHETIC.
Ill stick to my regular castrol gtx oil NON SYNTHETIC.
fuck synthetic,easy $5. qt,and rotarys consume 1 qt every 1000 miles,but I usally dont wait for 3 k to change the oil..
http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html#re0
I also have a factory Mazda book that states clearly that the Turbo engines are designed to use teflon and come that way from the factory.
I also have a factory Mazda book that states clearly that the Turbo engines are designed to use teflon and come that way from the factory.
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Here are some facts:
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.
Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.
Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
__________________
custom parts is our perfection.
custom parts is our perfection.