I will admit i really dont know a lot a bout cars and i try to learn as much as posiible and atleast try to learn the right things but anyways. What is the big difference between wet or dry and are the any advantages of the two. Thanks fro any help i really appreciate it.

 

mafro, why the hell dont you ask a friend bitch....

There are three types of setups for nitrous oxide.
1) Dry nitrous
2) Wet nitrous
3) Direct port

1) Dry nitrous: dry nitrous is where nitrous oxide and nitrous alone is spayed into the intake and the extra fuel needed is boosted through your stock or upgraded injectors. This set up is not safe for more then a 100 shot due to tunning and fuel isues, but is saffer for smaller shoots because you have better controll of the fuel. it is recomended by nitrous companys such as zex to place the nozzel at leaset 13" away from the throttle body, however this not realy the best place to put it. it is better to put the nozzel as far away from the TB as possable so that you get better ditribution through the intake so that an evan amount of nitrous is sprayed into each port in the intake manifold. placing the nozzel farther away is also better because nitrous is VEARY cold so it cools down the air going into the intake, and for every 11 degrees colder you gain 1HP. For custom setups like i have, you need to get a fuel controller and not just a FPR like most people say, it's saffer to get a fuel controller and a FPR wont boost the fuel anough if you want to go over 35 shoot. if you get a zex kit, it comes with a controller box that does all the work for you. when using dry nitrous, you only need one solinoid since you are only injecting nitrous and not fuel.

2)Wet nitrous: wet nitrous is called "wet" because it is sprayed in to your intake or through a TB plate with fuel and nitrous, so the nitrous never realy becomes a gas. with wet nitrous you have 2 jets on one nozzel (or how ever many nozzels you decide to install), one fuel jet, and one nitrous jet. this setup is saffer for higher shoots of nitrous over a 100 shoot due to that fact that you have more controll over the jets for better fuel controll. it still wouldnt hurt to get a fuel controller anyways and i recommend getting one but isnt required. with wet nitrous there is fuel added through the nozzel or what most people like to call it, a "fogger" instead of through the injectors. wet nitrous nozzels should also be place as far away from the TB but not as far as a dry nozzel should because it doesnt need as mutch room to distribute because of the fuel being added and because you shouldnt run fuel lines that far. when using wet nitrous you need two differant solinoids, one fuel soinoid and one nitrous solinoid.

3) Direct Port: Direct port nitrous injection works in the same way as wet nitrous but instead of a TB plate or having just one nozzel, you have 4 (or more if you have a v8 or v6 but this is a honda forum), one for each port on the intake manifold. this is also saffer then dry kits for the same resones why wet kits are better for bigger shoots. when doing a direct port nitrous setup, you need to get a distribution block. a distribution block is a small block of metal that evanly ditributes nitrous from one line into four (again, for hondas). it is veary important to eavenly distribute the nitrous to each port, other wise one port gets more nitrous then the other and you can geuss what happens. you also need to make shure that the lines from the distribution block to each port are all the same langth for the same reson. when using direct port, you also need to use two soinoids for the same reson you do with wet nitrous.

ok, and now for some general information:
nitrous is a gas, but when it is compressed enough it is takes the forum of liquid (this is where that boring ass chemistry class comes in. lol). because of this, it is better to mount the bottel so that the nozzel on the bottel is slightly higher then the bottom of the bottel and so that the nozzel is facing towards the front of your car, bacause when you kit the gas, this liquid nitrous is forced toward the bottom of the bottel where the pick up tube in the bottel sucks it in.
when running nitrous line, make shure you dont run them inside the car or near any fuel lines. since automotive nitrous doesnt have any smell you would never know if you have a leak. and if the line gets hot near you exaust or somthing then the line can break and empty your bottel realy quick and you just lost $50 worth of nitrous.
nitrous solinoids should not be mounted more the 3ft away from the nozzel or nozzels due to pressure problems.
If you are going to use more then a 50 shoot then you need to get colder spark plug and retard your timming a few degrees, once you get higher then a 100 shoot. you need to retard your timming evan more to prevent detonation.
you should not spray more then a 75 shoot on any d16.
you should not spray more then a 100 shoot on a stock any b16 or b18

now for some good and bad things about nitrous parts and nitrous in general:

one is the WOT (Wide Open Throttel) switch. it is good because nitrous is only sprayed when the peddel is puched all the way to the floor. but it is bad because if you spray to early on 1st gear, you can loose tractionand because if you miss shift then and do it more then once, you can blow your engine. witch is why i use a hand switch that i strap to my shift knob so i controll when the nitrous is sprayed.

nitrous is good because it is the best bang for your buck and is only a temporary change, it can be removed at any time. it is can be bad because if you spray to mutch you can fry your engine. and if something breaks wile your spraying, then you can also blow your engine.


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That was a post I found on honda-tech cause I didnt feel like explaining everything

My opinion... If you are going to go big on nitrous down the road, buy a WET direct port NX kit which sprays nitrous into your injector flow.

If you just want to toy with nitrous, buy a zex wet kit.

Thanks,
John

 

Thanks John I appreciate it.