Need a good machine shop for head resurfacing
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Need a good machine shop for head resurfacing
Hey guys,
I need to know of a good local machine shop who can resurface a B-series head VERY SMOOTHLY, unlike what NAPA recently did to my head, where you good see the mill lines and scratches in the aluminum.
The NAPA resurfaced head is not sealing very well with the OEM B16A metak head gasket. As such, it is leaking oil from the head gasket near the tab under the VTEC solenoid. LHT advised me that the head has to be VERY SMOOTH in order to seal right.
Any idea would be welcomed,
I need to know of a good local machine shop who can resurface a B-series head VERY SMOOTHLY, unlike what NAPA recently did to my head, where you good see the mill lines and scratches in the aluminum.
The NAPA resurfaced head is not sealing very well with the OEM B16A metak head gasket. As such, it is leaking oil from the head gasket near the tab under the VTEC solenoid. LHT advised me that the head has to be VERY SMOOTH in order to seal right.
Any idea would be welcomed,
Livin' in Seattle
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,813
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When you mill material you WILL end up with tooling marks. These are not anything to be worried about unless they are deep enough to catch a fingernail being run over the surface. I would doublecheck the install first before getting any more material removed from the head.
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Well, just to confirm:
I had NAPA resurface the head (0.006") was removed.
I used brand new, unused OEM head bolts.
I coated the threads, washers, and bolt heads with oil before torquing them down.
I torqued the head bolts in the order shown in the FSM, in two steps. Step 1 was around 22 lb-ft (don't remember exactly), Step 2 was 61 lb/ft.
Here is the order of torquing that I used:
9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
This is off the top of my head. I do not have the FSM in front of me right now. LHT SWEARS that the finish on the head is the problem. I suggested that the block may be warped, but he said that it is unlikely.
Thanks again,
I had NAPA resurface the head (0.006") was removed.
I used brand new, unused OEM head bolts.
I coated the threads, washers, and bolt heads with oil before torquing them down.
I torqued the head bolts in the order shown in the FSM, in two steps. Step 1 was around 22 lb-ft (don't remember exactly), Step 2 was 61 lb/ft.
Here is the order of torquing that I used:
9 5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6 10
This is off the top of my head. I do not have the FSM in front of me right now. LHT SWEARS that the finish on the head is the problem. I suggested that the block may be warped, but he said that it is unlikely.
Thanks again,
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
napa sucks dick. they sooooo fucked me a year ago on a bore/hone
my cylinders were so fucked.
i got a guy who can do it right.
334-6164
jason
napa charges 60$. so if it ends up needing to be redone it will be 50$ or less. and i will pick up and deliver the head if you are local.
i toss this guy work and he hooks me up.
he has a serdi valve machine and like 100k worth of equiptment.
he does excellant work
my cylinders were so fucked.
i got a guy who can do it right.
334-6164
jason
napa charges 60$. so if it ends up needing to be redone it will be 50$ or less. and i will pick up and deliver the head if you are local.
i toss this guy work and he hooks me up.
he has a serdi valve machine and like 100k worth of equiptment.
he does excellant work
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
eiseles sucks dick to.
they just bore your block to whatever the fuck they want to
and they make everything at the loose end of the tolorances so there is no chance of them being responsible for any fuckups which is fine.
but when im building a race motor i need my clearances tight.
they just bore your block to whatever the fuck they want to
and they make everything at the loose end of the tolorances so there is no chance of them being responsible for any fuckups which is fine.
but when im building a race motor i need my clearances tight.
