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need help picking motor to build for 98 Civic DX

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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 10:11 AM
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Default need help picking motor to build for 98 Civic DX

Got a couple of questions for you Honda guys. Im looking at building a motor for a friend's 98 Civic DX, and i have no idea where to start. (i've built several bike motors, but I dont kow anything about Honda cars). What is the best (strongest) motor to put in the car, and why is it the best? Im looking for a motor that can start out going 12s, possible quicker down the line. is there a stock motor that i can turbo and get those numbers reliably? Would i be better off buying a full motor or just a block and building it from the ground up? What kind of boost levels will it take to get into 12's (do they o-ring heads for better sealing on Hondas?)? This is not going to be a bottle fed car. I want to make sure i do this right the first time and need a starting point.

More than likely if i buy a complete engine i will tear it apart and do fun things to the internals...like polishing/chamfering/lightening the crank, billett steel or Ti rods, good pistons, etc...

The heads (whichever are the best for the combo above) will be fully ported and flowed, and i'll have billet cams ground for whatever combination i end up going with.

Last, where is a good place to get aftermarket Honda parts??



Thanks!
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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 10:19 AM
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Damn domestic owners all trying to figure this shit out ... No headS only 1... hehe


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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 10:25 AM
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dont do shit to the crank
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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 11:05 AM
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I would stay away from Crower valve train components, unless you are going to build an LS, their vtec cams, valve springs and retainers have a nasty reputation for disassembling your head at higher rpms.

I would recommend Jun, Toda, Skunk2, Ferrea and Portflow as reliable manufacturers of vtec valvetrain components.

I would recommend you start with a GSR motor, B18C1. I too have heard good stuff about www.hondamotorsonline.com

I also Highly recomend Endyn parts http://theoldone.com/

aside from all the motor work you do, you will want at least a quiaffe diff. and some suspension mods.
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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 02:14 PM
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Gsr all the way, FI or allmotor it will do the job
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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 05:00 PM
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did I hear Endyne?
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Old Oct 17, 2002 | 08:47 PM
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Originally posted by "CronicBurn"

If you want to do something to the crank, get a billet steel one from Crower. They run about $1000.00 but are as stated billet, and MUCH lighter then stock. You must balance your engine after something like this.
billet steel sounds good for the crank (and you honda guys get off easy, the crank for my turbo 5.4 motor is gonna run me almost 3K)

Originally posted by "CronicBurn"

Crower also has forged or H beam rods, a full valve train for which ever motor you decide to go with and cams. They also sell JE/SRP pistons low and high compression depending on what you plan to go with.
i want it to be able to hold about 20psi without breaking apart. my 5.4 turbo will be running a little over 8.5:1 with a 91.5mm turbo. should 9:1 be ok or should i go higher?

Originally posted by "CronicBurn"

Endyne/RollerWave pistons are also an *excellent* choice for all motor/FI setups. (www.theone.com)

I will not assume you are going all motor or FI. So choices are very broad.
Turbo

Originally posted by "CronicBurn"

If you want to go FI, and LS or B16A2 block will do wonderfully, I would not suggest an LS/VTEC they're not as reliable as you want. Im assuming your on a pretty vast budget since your talking about buying all these parts, including the motor.
two recommendations are the B16A2 and the B18C1...can you give me advantages vs. disadvantages between the 2?

Originally posted by "CronicBurn"

Start @ www.hondamotorsonline.com for a motor. I hear good things about them. If you don't want to ship, try someplace local. Speed Street (Hybrid performance) can get you what you need (813-546-378 Talk to Chris.

Also if you want to go FI I would suggest going with a T3/T04e/b kit. Depends on if he want's to keep his AC or not. I believe the E is larger of the two, and gets in the way of the condensor/fan.
He is a She and a/c will definitely be a must.

Originally posted by "CronicBurn"

FI or not, you will want to get an OBD1 P28 ECU+Conversion harness (or OBD1 motor (Not street legal, but who cares?)) and hook up a Hondata system($300-$1100depending on options). This will help you emensly in the long run, as it has full tunability. Spoon also has ECU's similar, although Im not familiar with them at all($~650).
cool. thanks to all of you for the input...im sure i'll have many more questions.
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