Okay.. converted and tucked the harness for this myself, d16z6 mini me in a crx running it obd1. After a slough of headaches I finally got everything straight.

Main relay is good, less than one year old.

When the key is turned to ON, all indicator lights come on, CEL comes on then turns off like it should and the fuel pump primes.

Car turns and turns, just checked and I'm not getting spark. Checked voltage at the igniter switch and It's 11.88, I'm not sure how to check the dizzy?

I leave on Monday for six months and I have to finish this, I really don't want to have to sell it and let all of my hard work and money go to waste..

If anyone in the Holiday/Tarpon/NPR/Pasco area is willing to swing by and take a look I'd be beyond grateful, thanks for any help

 

No guru here but will try to help.
Do these tests after remaking 2 grounds on thermostat housing.
There are three, main, items that will keep the engine from getting a spark. A bad ignition coil, a bad igniter and a bad distributor.
To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the -, white/blue wire, terminal of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F.
As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.

1. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.
5. Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.
6. Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit.

If the coil and igniter check out as good, then replace the distributor. Check for codes in the PCM. That will help pinpoint the probl

 

Coil (with wires connected, tested at coil terminals)
Blk/Yel to ground - 1.23v
Wht/Blue to ground - 1.23v

Coil with wires disconnected
11.88v between black/Yel and wht/grn

Resistance at the coil terminals with wires on and off the terminal reads 0.9 ohms


Igniter
Blk/Yel wire to ground 0.7v
Wht/Blu to ground 0.7v
Blue wire to ground 11.88v

I'm assuming that's the problem that the blk/yel and wht/Blu aren't at battery voltage? Where should I start checking to figure out why this is happening?

 

Yes you will need 12vdc at the Blk/Yel coming from ignition switch. refer this this print as reference.

 

well this may sound stupid but the bolt on the t stat housing ground wasn't torqued all the way, I tightened it and now I'm getting battery voltage between blk/yel and ground. my battery is almost dead so I'm waiting on it to charge so I can try this again.

 

Not dumb at all $%+# happens that why I said do that first. lol

 

yeah for sure.. I could have sworn I checked that first the other day! My fingers are crossed, unfortunately I have the worlds worst and slowest battery charger haha..

 

man.. so I let the battery charge to 100%, still no spark. I pulled the cap off, my buddy watched me check the voltage on the igniter wires

12v at black/yel
12v at yel/grn
12v at blu

put it back together, and still no spark. So i pulled the cap, checked the voltages

0.7v at blk/yel
0.7v at yel/grn
12v at blue...


I'm fuckin stumped.