Shaved/milled head question
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Shaved/milled head question
I have a d16y8 head I want to shave/mill the head .030, I am wondering if an aftermarket cam (ex) crower stage 2 or 3 or a regrind delta will fit/have clearance issues? I am looking to upgrade the entire valve train port and polish etc. I have done lots of research Google search and forums and have figured thus far this would work with a stock valve train and stock cam. Any ideas??? Thanks
! Ne shab'rud'ni !
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To me it sounds like the mill that you are doing on the head is normal, not sure about the deck on the block.
I would call the manufacturer, give them your specs and ask them.
Another idea is while you have everything out and apart before sending the head and block off would be to put the cams in then plastiguage to see where you are at and where you can go.
I would call the manufacturer, give them your specs and ask them.
Another idea is while you have everything out and apart before sending the head and block off would be to put the cams in then plastiguage to see where you are at and where you can go.
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if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point 
...91 SMF SCCA
...91 SMF SCCAhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
– the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
To me it sounds like the mill that you are doing on the head is normal, not sure about the deck on the block.
I would call the manufacturer, give them your specs and ask them.
Another idea is while you have everything out and apart before sending the head and block off would be to put the cams in then plastiguage to see where you are at and where you can go.
I would call the manufacturer, give them your specs and ask them.
Another idea is while you have everything out and apart before sending the head and block off would be to put the cams in then plastiguage to see where you are at and where you can go.
Yes!!!!
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2001 King Ranch F.150 (sold)
1991 5.0 Ls mustang (sold)
1993 ls cx hatch (traded)
1995 b16 eg coupe (SOLD)
2007 Hyundai Tiburon (sold)
2006 Yamaha R6 (sold)
1995 jdm b20b integra (sold)
2006 Mitsubishi fp red evo (dd)
2001 King Ranch F.150 (sold)
1991 5.0 Ls mustang (sold)
1993 ls cx hatch (traded)
1995 b16 eg coupe (SOLD)
2007 Hyundai Tiburon (sold)
2006 Yamaha R6 (sold)
1995 jdm b20b integra (sold)
2006 Mitsubishi fp red evo (dd)
! Ne shab'rud'ni !
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I was thinking and would a Clay test be better for this to guage the distance between the valve and piston? We did a Clay test with my Single Cam build.
hi I'm Angela and you're welcome. I've learned a lot from my friend David. It's good to talk to an engine builder for stuff like this.
hi I'm Angela and you're welcome. I've learned a lot from my friend David. It's good to talk to an engine builder for stuff like this.
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if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point ...91 SMF SCCA
...91 SMF SCCAhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
– the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production
