Hi all..

My accord wagon has been like this as long as I have owned it..

runs ruff at idle and if you pull the plug wire out of cylinder closest to the timing belt it runs the same..

But... while driving the car it drives fine.. No lose of power.. even if you down shift...

Any ideas??

i have done a full tune up.. plugs,wires,cap,rotor. oil change and filter..

Car is old... and has 254,xxx miles... the valves do chatter allot more then any other honda I have owned tho...

no smoke in the exhaust...

 

Compression check ?

 

^ I haven't done that yet.. Def on my list of things to do..

Will post up the numbers when I do it..

 

Start there ...

 

you also might have a clogged injector... or just a bad one. I did an H22 swap into a EG Hatch that was having that same exact problem. I switched out the injectors for a totally different set and it corrected the issue.... When you do your compression test it should help you figure out whats going on in your motor. Another thing to check though, pull the spark plug out of that cylinder after it's run for a few minutes and smell it to see if it has a fuel scent to it.

-Drew

 

do u have code 14? iacv will fuck ur idle but run fine at top end.

my car tosses 14 and has bad idle alot but when i gun it no problems

 

start pulling the wires on the other cylinders one by one. if u pull one and the car runs like shit, more than likely the one u said u pulled the wire off and it still ran the same, it prob has a bad injector.

like the dude said pull the plug and look for gas on it

 

to go more in depth of a bad IACV... the car will typically have turrets, meaning it will rev up to like 2500 and then back down to the regular idle range, then back up again and repeat until your putting load onto it. If this is your problem, to save yourself a costly part right off the get, you can clean it by simple taking out the three 12-mm bolts and spraying carb. cleaner inside it to clean all the carbon buildup out. Just keep spraying it until the fluid coming out isn't black. Then tighten the donut inside your Fast Idle Control Valve... seeing how they tend to come loose inside on occasion.

 

Car is throwing No cels at all.. and yes the light is there!!


Im going to compression check it in the morning.. as soon as I get up..

numbers will be posted tomorrow..

I already know its cylinder #1. I can pull the wire out and it still runs the same..

 

Then it sounds like your getting no fuel to Cylinder #1
Bad Injectors.... or toasted ECU.
Easiest and cheapest bet would be to check the injectors first