Ok on my way to Miami today my car started to over heat. I have a 96 2.2 Ex Accord. I think the water pump impeller is slipping on the shaft so the pump is barely moving water... Because going down the highway at 70mph the car stays cool. If i sustain 80mph it will over heat, and in town it will over heat.

I get no hot air coming out of the heater vent. So this leads me to believe the pump is not moving air through the heater core.... Or there is something plugged up in the block.

1.) I have no Thermostat (yanked it out a long time ago)
2.) Both fans kick on as they should. One 1st and the 2nd when its getting hotter but they are still not able to cool the engine down... engine continues to get hotter.
3.) Radiator 16psi Pressure cap changed out... Problem remained
4.) No coolant leaks. The only coolant that is lost is maybe 1 cup because it flows over into the coolant reservoir. Coolant is full

What shop is near new tampa that I could take it to? It would be great if i could get it back the same day or next day if at all possible. I can drive the car a short distance... because the pump moves enough water to slightly cool the engine as long as I'm moving.

 

I would replace the t-stat. It helps a heater to work.
Gets consistancy wityh cooling at any speed.

The fins on the pump may be rusted away.

Replacing a pump and timing belt start you off right....or you might
have to pay twice later on.....know when the timing belt was last replaced?

Short term...
If you drive a distance, stop and let it cool when needed. Carry a couple gallon jugs of water. Add water as needed. Some people loosen the radiator cap....-Bob

 

Thanks.. Just had a shop diagnose it and they said it was the radiator... the fans were pulling hot air from one side and lukewarm from the other.. It fixed the problem now both fans pull hot air from the radiator... but the car after a long drive still gets alittle too hot for my liking..
Shouldn't not having the thermostat in there keep it cooler? He put one back in... but I'm going to take it out and see if it keeps the car cooler because even though it no longer over heats.. still gets up a tad over 3/4 to red.. But my gauge sensor is off maybe 5 degrees too hot (we checked with a snap on scanner). If it doesn't help i'll just put it back in.. I'll check fluid levels first.. make sure its topped.

 

Glad it was just the radiator and not the waterpump as you would have been in it for that and probably timing belt + labor. Just replace the temp sensor if gauge reading bothers you however not sure if 5 degrees will make much a difference.

 

I temporarily remove t-stats to get home when they stick shut and cause overheating. Most of the time 160 degrees works OK for FL.

long drive/no t-stat?......
I use t-stats to 1.slow down the flow through the rad to give time for the water to cool and 2.so the heater works.

Sometimes it helps to burp the air bubbles out if you have an air bleed screw.

What did they do to fix the "half hot/half lukewarm radiator?
...and what did it cost you?-Bob

 

They swapped in a new radiator and I could feel it was pulling hot air equally from both sides when they did that.. Also it does not over heat.. But still gets too hot for my likely after a long hour or more drive. Only heats up when at a stop light not on the highway like it was doing before the radiator swap.
The radiator was 89 bucks. Thermostat was 16 bucks. Plus 2 hours labor, Plus Tax came to 240 dollars.

I still may have a weak water pump.. or a small issue with it... because the car still gets a fair bit hotter than it should