ls/v-tech ecu question
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ls/v-tech ecu question
I have an ef hatch with an ls in it wanna make it v-tech which ecu would be best give me some input? I am thinking of using a b16a head still looking around just need info. 
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Originally posted by "`92CXhatch"
i told you get a PW0 or a PR3... you are still going to be slow...
oh yeah for everyone else... he has a b18a1 and wants to put a b16 head on it... he is pre OBD...
-Keith
i told you get a PW0 or a PR3... you are still going to be slow...
oh yeah for everyone else... he has a b18a1 and wants to put a b16 head on it... he is pre OBD...
-Keith
I KNOW I COULD USE ONE OF THE TWO I WAS JUST TRYING TO SEE If ONE MIGHT BE BETTER THAN THE OTHER OR MAYBE SOMEOTHER ALTERNATIVE JUST EXPLORING MY OPTIONS. O yea I almost forgot keith is a cock smoker
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Originally posted by "2qk4u"
92cx is right.
i have the same shit you are tryin to do. im using a pr-3 ecu
92cx is right.
i have the same shit you are tryin to do. im using a pr-3 ecu
Yea i just wasnt sure if there was a preformance difference between the two. What block preps did you do or would you recommend?
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bore/hone cylinders. get the crank polished. rods can be "reconditioned"
after a while rods expand with heat and need to have some shit done to them. maybe new oil,water pump.
theres tons of shit you can do. just depnds on ur money
after a while rods expand with heat and need to have some shit done to them. maybe new oil,water pump.
theres tons of shit you can do. just depnds on ur money
The Mole
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V-Tech 
bored at work
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Block prep for reliability up to 8.5k rpm
itr or b16a pistons oversized
arp rod bolts for stock rods
have rods resized
new bearings and seals
block needs to be tapped for the knock sensor or you will need an ecu program that deletes it like the Mugen program.
I wouldn't polish the crank if it is in good condition. Honda and most other cranks are carburized which is a process of diffusing carbon into the steel to make the outer surface much harder. Depending on how much it is polished the layer of carburized steel might be removed and you'll be wearing out bearings faster. I don't nor do I know of anyone who knows how thick this layer is but I'd assume it to be thousands of an inch. If the crank is not visibly scarred and when you run your fingernail over it you don't feel anything just use the crank how it is. If it is scarred it would be a better idea to just find a good crank.
This is how I setup my bottom end and it has ran fine with no problems in over two years of hard driving.
Good luck, BTW how is your car running anyway?
Kevin
itr or b16a pistons oversized
arp rod bolts for stock rods
have rods resized
new bearings and seals
block needs to be tapped for the knock sensor or you will need an ecu program that deletes it like the Mugen program.
I wouldn't polish the crank if it is in good condition. Honda and most other cranks are carburized which is a process of diffusing carbon into the steel to make the outer surface much harder. Depending on how much it is polished the layer of carburized steel might be removed and you'll be wearing out bearings faster. I don't nor do I know of anyone who knows how thick this layer is but I'd assume it to be thousands of an inch. If the crank is not visibly scarred and when you run your fingernail over it you don't feel anything just use the crank how it is. If it is scarred it would be a better idea to just find a good crank.
This is how I setup my bottom end and it has ran fine with no problems in over two years of hard driving.
Good luck, BTW how is your car running anyway?
Kevin
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kj is right you might want to shot pein your rods. basiclly it will smooth out the stressed areas on the rods and will lets you run a good 50 more hp on the stock rods. but hey iam selling a kenji chipped pr3 for 200 if you wat pm me.
