Want to make a reliable EK daily driver that runs 13.5's
I am wanting to get a EK, either a coupe or sedan (no hatch). It will be a daily driver, I drive about 80 miles a day going to work in Tampa. I want something that I can play around with and have fun on the street. Im not looking to smoke people, or even race (well might hit up lakeland or sarasota track a couple times), just something to have a little fun in on my way to work or on a sunday drive.
What i want to know is how to make a NON gutted EK coupe or sedan hit around 13.5 or so in the quarter, while at the same time being fairly reliable. Something cost effective also, I don't want no K series swaps and all that
So TR, for a reliable Ek that runs 13.5's or so, and can drive 100 miles a day and not have any problems, how should it be built.
What i want to know is how to make a NON gutted EK coupe or sedan hit around 13.5 or so in the quarter, while at the same time being fairly reliable. Something cost effective also, I don't want no K series swaps and all that

So TR, for a reliable Ek that runs 13.5's or so, and can drive 100 miles a day and not have any problems, how should it be built.
Ummmmm stock gsr on a 75 wet shot on drag radials will run about 13.5-13.2
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if you want something to "play with" then don't shoot for quarter miles times. especially if the car will never see a track.
__________________
CRAWFORD BUILT
Gainesville Crew Member #1
DC Crew Member #23
you want something with a linear power band, which means you'll have throttle responce and power in the low end rshared_pm range. this leaves you with two options, supercharger or an N/A car. plus you have to remember the golden rule of engine (and car) building:
-cheap
-fast
-reliable
pick two because you never, EVER get all three.
i assume your running a stock d15 or d16 motor, you can build this one fine and still make good hp/trq numbers. you can supercharge this motor with a Jackson Supercharger or save a little bit of money and build it N/A.
feel free to email me (email in signature) or PM me and we can discuss setups for your car.
-cheap
-fast
-reliable
pick two because you never, EVER get all three.
i assume your running a stock d15 or d16 motor, you can build this one fine and still make good hp/trq numbers. you can supercharge this motor with a Jackson Supercharger or save a little bit of money and build it N/A.
feel free to email me (email in signature) or PM me and we can discuss setups for your car.
__________________
CRAWFORD BUILT
Gainesville Crew Member #1
DC Crew Member #23
A poor mans type R..
Very decent not high cost motor..
B18C bottom end.. Stock rods... CTR replica pistons..
ARP headstuds.. Cometic headgasket..
B16B head.. CTR cams.. springs and retainers..
and most bolt ons.. header, intake manifold, cold air..
mine did great power and super reliable...
and was a blast to drive...
Very decent not high cost motor..
B18C bottom end.. Stock rods... CTR replica pistons..
ARP headstuds.. Cometic headgasket..
B16B head.. CTR cams.. springs and retainers..
and most bolt ons.. header, intake manifold, cold air..
mine did great power and super reliable...
and was a blast to drive...
__________________
A poor mans type R..
Very decent not high cost motor..
B18C bottom end.. Stock rods... CTR replica pistons..
ARP headstuds.. Cometic headgasket..
B16B head.. CTR cams.. springs and retainers..
and most bolt ons.. header, intake manifold, cold air..
mine did great power and super reliable...
and was a blast to drive...
Very decent not high cost motor..
B18C bottom end.. Stock rods... CTR replica pistons..
ARP headstuds.. Cometic headgasket..
B16B head.. CTR cams.. springs and retainers..
and most bolt ons.. header, intake manifold, cold air..
mine did great power and super reliable...
and was a blast to drive...
__________________
you want something with a linear power band, which means you'll have throttle responce and power in the low end rshared_pm range. this leaves you with two options, supercharger or an N/A car. plus you have to remember the golden rule of engine (and car) building:
-cheap
-fast
-reliable
pick two because you never, EVER get all three.
i assume your running a stock d15 or d16 motor, you can build this one fine and still make good hp/trq numbers. you can supercharge this motor with a Jackson Supercharger or save a little bit of money and build it N/A.
feel free to email me (email in signature) or PM me and we can discuss setups for your car.
-cheap
-fast
-reliable
pick two because you never, EVER get all three.
i assume your running a stock d15 or d16 motor, you can build this one fine and still make good hp/trq numbers. you can supercharge this motor with a Jackson Supercharger or save a little bit of money and build it N/A.
feel free to email me (email in signature) or PM me and we can discuss setups for your car.
I think as long as...
-You build sorta cheap, but not too cheap and skipping areas that need $$
-Build it mildy fast, but nothing crazy
-Make it reliable , though some reliability will be lost, not much if its a mild motor.
I think all 3 can be acheived, but there is a point where you start gaining in one and taking away from the other
The reason I went with 13.5 seconds as a goal, is because I want to see what motor/tranny would take me there in a nongutted EK shell. My dads mild street car (the camaro I talked about above) ran 13.5's on street tires, and was lots of fun on the streets. So I know I like the feel of a 13.5 second car, and wanted to shoot for times rather then HP because I have no idea how much power will get me to those times. Since it will be a DD, I don't want a crazy goal, just something fun. I will take it to the track to race sometimes, but not all the time, since it's not being built to be a race car.
You pretty much nailed it on the head though, and thats why I thought turbo setup might not be best for me. I like throttle response and pull, I like driving at lowish speeds, then downshifting to around 3 grand and getting on it and getting that "pushed back in your seat feeling" a little bit. Thats what I am after. HP means nothing to me, I just know that my fathers 13.5 second car was a blast on the street, and thats around what I want for a EK.
Also if you cant tell already, I am new to the import world, but I am getting the itch, and I am getting it BAD!!

Thanks for the help so far, I need all I can get. BTW I got a rebuilt B18B head layin around, pretty sure I should be selling that and looking for a B16 head then eh??
Last edited by Brandon H.; Mar 12, 2010 at 07:48 AM.
A poor mans type R..
Very decent not high cost motor..
B18C bottom end.. Stock rods... CTR replica pistons..
ARP headstuds.. Cometic headgasket..
B16B head.. CTR cams.. springs and retainers..
and most bolt ons.. header, intake manifold, cold air..
mine did great power and super reliable...
and was a blast to drive...
Very decent not high cost motor..
B18C bottom end.. Stock rods... CTR replica pistons..
ARP headstuds.. Cometic headgasket..
B16B head.. CTR cams.. springs and retainers..
and most bolt ons.. header, intake manifold, cold air..
mine did great power and super reliable...
and was a blast to drive...
a poor mans type-r would get you there, i'd just make a few changes to the above setup, i'd run an h-beam rod, and use ITR cams instead of the CTR cams. and the compression would be in the low 11's.
__________________
CRAWFORD BUILT
Gainesville Crew Member #1
DC Crew Member #23
Last edited by DC2_BoostKING; Mar 12, 2010 at 07:39 AM.
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